3.0 coilover with tie rod contact

There were a few members I remember reading about contact issues when running 3.0 coilover.

Those with 3.0s, regardless of contact issues, can you post up which coilovers and which control arms your running along with alignment specs. Please mention whether or not you have contact with the tie rods and when that contact occurs (static wheels straight forward, full lock, or otherwise?)

If you had contact and fixed it, what did you do to remedy the issue?

Please lets not turn this thread into a UCA battle of well theirs has so much x built into it vs this one and blah blah. Thanks

 

I thought I read about the tie rods need the threads trimmed?

 

That's a seperate issue with toe rod adjustment for those not getting proper toe/camber numbers.

 

I thought that was for both clearance and to get the numbers right. Doesn’t dirty deeds or coachbuilder make something for that?

 

I heard swapping outer may help, dont recall 100. You may be right....my simple mind can't see how shortening the inner would clearance the contact issue.

CB tie rod ends I believe are much larger, not sure how that would help either. But if someone posted examples, again - my simple mind.

 

ADS 3.0 coilover
Camburg 1.5"
Alignment = caster 7%, camber -.1*

Does not contact at any point during travel, at full lock, the tie rod boot barely touches the outside of the spring. There are no signs of rubbing or wear. I did not swap/turn around tie rod ends.

The clearance is pretty tight however. I can take pics if needed.

 

Perfect, great info - thank you!

Hate to bother with pics, but if you wouldn't mind when you have a few minutes

 

No worries, the reason I got these coilovers was this site! Why spend $300 on 5100s when I can spend 5k on ADS!

Passenger side pics straight ahead.






Clearance is probably a 1/2" maybe a little more.

 

ADS 3.0 coilovers
MCM UCAs
Caster 3.3° left, 3.6° right

I contact a full lock. I'm going to take my truck back and have them increase the caster another .5° to see if that clears it up. Too much caster is a bad thing from what I have heard, 7° sounds extreme.


@joonbug @TRD15559 also have 3.0's

 

I believe the trimming of the inner tie rod threads is the solution for the bad alignment #s. Specifically, it's an attempt to correct the improper geometry of Icon tubular UCAs. This didn't make sense to me so I replaced the defective arms with MCM and couldn't be happier. I stacked the Icons on top of the MCM before install and the problem is clearly visible. Icon arms are wrong...... IMO

 

I think I caused steering rack issues with too much caster but haven't fixed it yet. BTW you need some dirt on that suspension,,,,,, way too clean unless you're headed to the mall.

 

I had to slide the boot up some. And sacrificed caster because I have the garbage ass Icon tubular UCAs. They need to either correct it or just stop selling them.

 

I spoke with camburg, they said they see 6-7.5 caster with their arms. I think next alignment (when i get new tires) I'll probably try camber at -.25 to get caster in the low 6's, if possible.

 

What rack issues you have? I have about 10k miles with the specs I'm on.

 

What size tires are you running? That much caster would push you back pretty far to the body mount wouldn't it? I might have my directions mixed up.

 

Not with Camburg arms. They have the opposite problem of the Icon arms. Needs too much caster.

 

I'm pretty sure high positive caster pushes the wheel towards the front of the vehicle. Like a chopper motorcycle. I have a bunch of room between the body mount and could easily roll 35s. Right now i'm on 295/70r18s on +25 offset wheels (SCS).

 

You are right, I had it reversed in my head.

 

I have ADS 3.0 with MCM UCA...no issues. Here are my numbers:

 

Can you take a pictures of the driver side at full lock? I might have to adjust more than I was expecting.

 

@14burrito , make sure you have this spacer facing forward.

 

@14burrito , which 3.0's and UCA's do you have?

 

Currently have ADS 2.5" but thinking of making the jump.

For all the caster discussion, didn't want yo really go there but...
Caster gets tricky depending on control arms. With Camburg, as they have a lot of caster built in....less positive caster will actually move the wheel BACK into the body mount. Lets say on a OEM arm, the positive caster will move the wheel forward.

 

When talking about 3.0's, you have to discuss caster and the arms. The UCA's are everything. There is so little room between the tie rods and the axles that you have to get the shocks right in between by adjusting caster. If you have Icon Tubulars like me, your caster will be too low. Camburgs, caster will be too high. MCM and Total Chaos seem to have it right in the middle. As soon as I can confirm my Resi hose can clear MCM arms, I think I'm going to make the switch. It's really a shame because I really wanted to keep the Delta Joints on my Icon arms.

 

Camburg Billets with Icon 3.0's on my truck. I have zero contact at 6.8 degrees of caster on the left and 7.8 degrees on the right. Drives like a dream.

 

Go Total Chaos with the Delta Joints. That is what I wanted to to.

 

Total Chaos won't clear the resi hose on the Icons. I'd have to remove the shocks and swap the left and right to clear and the hose which will then be too short and rub the springs. If I'm going to do this, I'm going to do it correct this time.

 

I see you grinded the front sway bar ears like me. i run KING 2.5 and the square ears were touching the base of the coilovers

 

The manifold at the top of the shock where the reservoir fitting goes in rotates. So you can rotate it left and right.