Wait... What? How was my oil change and 30k Service only $90?

If even a small minority of you have been reading the rambling of this retiree (I know, I'm young) you may recall my frustration with a local dealer concerning their lack of follow up and salesmanship concerning Toyota Care extensions beyond 25k.
So yesterday, I stroll into my local dealership with an appointment made via the Toyota app. I approach the desk and speak with the CSA. He sifts through my records and finally asks, "So Steve, I see your here for an oil change." I reply with a quick yes, and start digging a bit. I inquire as to whats inspected within the free multi-point inspection, what lube points the truck has (driveshaft?) and confirm the truck is receiving synthetic (not FFV).

The CSA rambles from memory the following are checked:

Front and rear brake pad thickness
Tire tread depth
Tire pressure
Tire wear and overall condition
Brake fluid level
Wipers
Battery test
Hoses and clamps
Inspect suspension
Transmission fluid level (if applicable) Don't know about this one!
Brake system components
Battery terminals and components
Inspect cabin filter (funny story about this little gem)
Drive belts
Horn, lights, etc

State law has all California dealerships obsessing about proper tire pressure, and let's not forget Toyotas love affair with the beloved floor mats (lol)

Subtotal: $79.90

$87 after taxes and disposal fees, etc

So.. 8 quarts,OE parts, their labor and what looked like a 30K service for $87? For those trying to rationalize the extended service, the dealership stance on the driveshaft lube was "as needed" and trust me, I asked.

Did they make a mistake? How can Toyota Care even be considered?

For someone who has spare time but only changes air and cabin filters, I have a hard time rationalizing the need to perform my own maintenance with this price point.

Anyone run into the same situation?

 

They DO NOT grease or retorque the propeller shafts. They don’t even really take the time to inspect all of the things you wrote down. They change the oil and filter and then tighten the living shit out of everything they removed.
For me, as long as I’m young enough to turn a wrench those hacks won’t touch my truck.
I do everything the manual states. More than they do for 50 bucks or less.

 

Yep that seems about right. Also, be aware that if you continue to let dealership service your vehicle every 5k miles, after the 2 yr/25k free ones, you are a preferred customer. The perk to this is that when you hit your higher mileage service levels, you will get discounted pricing. At least this was the case at my dealership.

 

Keep in mind, they didn’t do ANYTHING for 87 bucks but change your oil and filter, period. When you go back and need diffs changed etc watch that price sky rocket to the standard push it in your rear dealer prices.

 

Also, ask yourself what the 12 dollar an hour oil change guy knows about the suspension system? He will be lucky if he looks into the fender wells..

I’m not trying to be a jerk but this really is the reality of the quick lube world..

 

Dude, seriously, you need a hug. It's way too early in the morning to be that riled up about a dealership.

Keep in mind, not everyone has the tools and capabilities you may have when it comes to servicing your own vehicle. Also, need to understand that any other oil change place will charge $110 to $140 for a synthetic oil change with filter on these trucks.

 

I'm 46, so I can do the oil change on my concrete slab within the garage but...
Full synthetic at 8 quarts and the filter is around $65 bucks in California (7.35‰ tax)
22$ savings.. Eh. that dog doesn't hunt. Not for $20.

They could have skipped everything, sure.. Then again, we'll have to assume they skip the same things on the official “30k“ service as well.

I'd agree they don't respect tq. spec.

My point was the inspection invalidates the marketed "service" check. Just a curious situation, and price was pretty competitive.

Report says techs (225)&(340) so I guess they had two guys tag teaming it.

They probably don't know anything about the suspension, but anybody can check for loose or torn components, broken leaf springs, etc. At FREE, ill take it

 

So basically your ‘premium’ was $22 for someone to change your oil and dispose of it. Not bad and well worth it. Your time (or someone elses) getting to the shop and waiting is the thing to consider.

 

My Toyota care is up, next service is on me, I was quoted $80 including tire rotation. For me its worth it, esp since all have to park on is a gravel drive and I am not crawling around on gravel unless I have to, I am 52 not 22 any more.
It also gives a record, so I believe if something they do incorrectly leads to a failure they should cover it, at least that's my thinking reality may prove otherwise one day.
Also I get to BS with the sales team and the owner who never fails to come up and shake my hand, every damn time. I respect that.

 

Just hit 1 yr so I still have another year of services. I will still go to the dealer for oil changes depending on price. I don't have a garage or shop anymore and no place to dispose of used oil. My driveway is inclined so not really a good spot.

 

I usually get my synthetic on sale, so usually it's around $10-15 for a 5qt jug of mobil 1 or pennzoil platinum. The OE filters are about $5 here, or $11 for the TRD so when total cost is around $25-30 vs $90 for less than half an hour of work (made easier with the RCI skid that I guess pays for itself after a few DIY oil changes) that you know is done right, it's worth it to me.

My dealer's 30k service usually adds a diff fluid change, so that ramps it up to more like $200-250, for what are basically still drain and fills.

 

I did the same with my Denali Duramax Dually I traded in on my new Tundra. Rotella T Synthetic, Baldwin filter and DEF. 150 bucks at the dealer or 75 bucks in the driveway.

 

Yup, for 25 bucks I will let the dealer do it. And wait for them to tell me all the stuff I need to do because they just looked at the odometer. My wife had 90k miles on her Acura and they told her she needed new front brakes. She does 80% highway driving and told them that her husband would change them at home vs the 350 at the dealer. So me not thinking ordered the brakes before she got home and waited on them to be delivered. I go out and was about to pull the wheel but leaned in to look at the pad first. She still had over half her pad and that's when I got a bit hot. Sent her back to the dealer the next day because it was close to her work and she let em have it. Had she said ok that day then they would have milked us for 350.

 

I recently moved back to a place I rented for several years before heading up to Anchorage in my 09 Taco. (Needless to say I did not do oil change up there in the winter with no garage) I always did my own oil changes prior to that.
Now that I'm back in the old place with garage I will not start changing my oil again. Why bother. I have a friend who owns a Grease Monkey (I've brought this up before), is very professional and his Monkeys are trained and are good at what they do. Been going there for 4 years now. NOT ONE ISSUE EVER. I can stand there and watch what they do and they do check fluid levels, clean my glass, vacuum cab, look for obvious leaks on exposed seals , shocks...you know..... the captain obvious stuff. I usually pay around 70 bucks there for M-1 and the extra stuff they do. I supply my own Toyota filter because I bought a box of them off Craig's List. Quite pleased. Not worth the bs or my time to save a few dollars doing my own oil anymore unlike replacing an intake manifold on a 98 Grand Marquis and saving $1100 to $1300 like I did last weekend. That's worth the BS and my time. My two trips to Stevenson's West and East for service not long after I bought my Tundra went quite well. Excellent techs. I know one tech who is here on this forum and he knows his stuff. I find it hard to believe the average Toyota lube tech is a complete dolt by the way.
I still do my own grease because it gives me a chance for a good look see for my self

 

I don’t need a hug. He was looking looking for opinions and I gave him mine. I dont see a need to BS the guy. And no, I’ve never seen anyone charge over a 100 bucks for these trucks..

 

With all due respect sir, calling those guys “techs” is really pushing it. They run through those guys as quick as they can interview them.
With that said, I completely get not wanting the hassle for the minimum savings. I would prefer to have them do it myself but I have yet to be satisfied with the work they do.
You should ask one of them what the filter housing torque spec is. I’ll be surprised if they know or for that matter even have a torque wrench.

But if you find a guy you trust then you’re in a good situation.

 

I’m getting that skid just for ease of change. I’m on the fence with the Fumoto but that would really simplify things. How was the install on the RCI?

 

I know that when I go to my Grease Monkey I'm always shown the screen with my Tundras' oil/lube info. And surprise..............torque spec is shown for the "tech" to use and he actually uses a torque wrench. Can't vouch for all Grease Monkeys or Toyota dealers but this spec info comes up on any legit service screen. Even Sears. Now...do they actually torque it?? Don't know. I get to watch the guys changing my oil first hand. I'm not one to paint a broad brush on trashing all lube techs. I've had much better experiences over the years I guess for the most part. Yes there are dolts out there.

 

Understood. Your experience has been the opposite of mine and agreed, I should not generalize all lube guys.
What I can confirm is that anytime I’ve had service done I’ve needed a breaker bar (no shit) to remove the housing.

 

The first time I had my oil changed the housing was on so tight the tech broke the wrench adapter... The previous oil service was done by the NISSAN dealer I bought my truck......just sayin..........NISSAN......sucks!

Definitely get that RCI skid. I'm going to eventually have the full set! Order from ToyTec. You should get a forum discount. Took me about an hour but was getting help from my 3 yr old grandson.......

 

Pretty straightforward, though it's bulkier than the OE skid and a bit of a pain to line up initially (I got the steel one)

I never trusted the Fumoto myself so I've stuck to the plain old drain plug

 

I will definitely order through TOYTEC. I really want to trust the Fumoto because the one thing that would drive me back to the dealer is the fact that when this oil come out it’s coming out as fast as I’ve even seen and it makes a mess!

 

Yeah..got the steel one.. put center bolt on first. Actually the pain was getting the spacers aligned. I've got the diff drop so had to use the stupid spacers. After that bs was quite easy other than grabbing for my wrench and grandson had ran with it..............................................numerous times...............................

 

I appreciate everyone's opinion on the issue. I'm with RLHLK. I don't have gravel or and incline, but central valley heat is nine months of broiling heat, and laying on concrete isn't as much fun as in my twenties. $20 is a small price to pay.
Some of this might be regional as well. California has the highest fuel, and oil related costs in the nation, including Hawaii.

We generally pay $125 for a synthetic oil change. My Rubicon 3.6L was an easy $110.

I do prefer the option of liability being on behalf of the dealer as opposed to a quick lube or myself. An earlier thread of mine echoes this rationale to the highest order (Lexus IS350 Oil leak, hand tight and insufficient crush washer).
What a sh*t sandwich that was...

I was considering the diff fluid change at 30k but don't fall under the severe driving or towing category. Maybe I need to review my maintenance book.

 

That's an easy fix Matt, get him is own wrench set.

 

I go to my trusty Toyota/Lexus mechanic. He has his own shop now. 30 years at Toyota as a master tech. Old school and always the same guy working on my truck. Good prices and only use oem Toyota parts. Find one of those guys. He also likes to work on modded trucks, a change from the usual family minivan or camry

 

I'm due for a return to Grease Monkey soon. Will be the first time with the RCI skid. Going to politely mention to not "SPILL OIL ALL OVER THE SKID". At least I get to watch what going on. I've never had to bother them so far.

 

Understood. All valid points. Here in Colorado the oil changes are never north of 100 that I’ve found but I’m sure different states are more expensive.

You mentioned the prop shaft grease and retorque which TOYOTA has listed in the manual but the dealerships and I’ll bet most if not all quick lubes totally ignore.
However, most dealerships will tell you they go above and beyond what Toyota recommends. Sorry IMO they are full of shit. And I wonder if they would stand behind their “as needed” philosophy if someone has an issue??