Explain it to me like I'm 5. Mid Travel Suspension

I totally get what a long travel kit is, and does. I even understand how the long travel kit accomplishes what it does. But back in my Tacoma days, and I've seen a few posts here as well there was also a "Mid Travel" suspension.

What exactly goes into making this, and how/why/what makes it mid travel?
Thanks!

 

https://www.tundratalk.net/forums/tundra-suspension-talk/181026-mid-travel-talk.html

@osidepunker has lots of experience who is now LT and wrote that thread

 

101 pages is not explaining like I'm 5
I will however continue reading. On page 3 already.

 

You’ll be 6 by the time you’re done reading so yea....googoogaga

 

"Explain it to me like I'm 5"

Get mid travel if you have a budget of $6k or so

Get LT if you can afford $22k

Get spacer lift if you're a n00b

Get Fox and Total Chaos and be cool like me

 

Damn I've come a long ways since then lol

 

Currently running Bilstein 6112 up front, with Camburg Uniball uppers.
And 5160 rears, with a Camburg 1.5" shackle lift.

This has been on the truck, and driven about 200 miles now...

 

Typical 5 year old...

I didn't list any of those options in my answer

 

Mid Travel just means less travel . Typically 12" up front, 13" in the rear.

Long Travel is usually 16" up front (could be up to 18") and 16"-17" in the rear (I have 17")

 

and to get to Mid travel in the front on our trucks. it's extend all the hoses and lines. Replace the UCA (with standard UCAs? or are there midtravel specific parts?) And then buy shocks with a longer stroke than OEM drop in?

 

those aren't 5 year old questions.

If you want my opinion, the best value for a fully capable reliable suspension system:

Front
Total Chaos UCA
Fox 2.5 Remote reservoir coilover (don't bother with DSC)
Fox 2.5 bypasses (optional upgrade) with Total Chaos shock hoops
Total Chaos spindle and cam tab gussets

Rear
Deaver leafs, either the K37 or expo packs depending on your needs (call and ask Jeff at Deaver and tell him Alex aka OsidePunker sent you)
Fox 2.5 remote reservoir shocks (there are no good bypass options out there and I don't think they are worth the cost on an MT setup)

I haven't priced these parts recently, but should be somewhere around 4-6k I would guess

 

Thanks!

BTW, how much travel do you suspect I've got currently?

 

Not enough...

Seriously though, it's way more important to have parts that won't break than it is to have a bunch of suspension travel

 

How do the bypass shocks connect to the lower control arms with this setup? Is the Total Chaos racing LCA also required then?

Cam Tabs & Spindle Gussets were next on my list for the front suspension.

 

Total Chaos make a tab kit that you can weld to your lower control arm. You don't need to buy the race LCA

 

You already have Camburg UCA so just throw in an ADS coilover and Deaver springs with the ADS bypass in the rear and you will be good. You don't really need the second bypass up front and can always add it later if you find you really think you need it.
Should net you 12 inches of travel up front and 12-13 in the rear. Front coils area about $1600 for 2.5 and $2600 for 3.0, Deavers are about $1000 and Rear bypass shocks are $1300 Plus install

 

Quit telling people to buy a rear bypass that will explode

 

explode - haha
When has that happened?

 

Of course I exaggerated for internet drama. but I've personally heard from or seen in person 6 or more ADS failures in the last 2 years

 

Go clean your room first

 

6 failures - I only know of one and that was Dragos - but he drives like an idiot. But it was a shock part failure that caused it.

 

I know more then you then. the fact is those shocks rotate and interfere and fall apart. It pisses me off that the people who sell them won't come clean

 

They only rotate if they are not torqued correctly- plus spacers in the rear help create space also. I wonder how the new King 3.0 bypasses are setup to solve that issue. After I fixed mine I haven't had a problem with them rotating. 50K+ miles and they haven't exploded haha

 

Here you go @n2deep , just 3 weeks ago:

 

thats bs and you know it. Fact is there are way too many failures out there

 

They do have a tendency to rotate when the axle twist and flex and make some contact, but I wouldn't call that a failure. If you want bypasses to off-road then expect that your truck ins't a pavement princess to look all pretty at the next parking lot meet. I wonder how the new king 3.0 bypasses addressed the issue since its a bigger shock to fit in the same area. Not gonna get 13in of travel out of a remote resi since they aren't spec'd to use the Deaver travel. But I don't consider that a failure.

 

Yes Craig, I know you don't consider it a problem. But the guys I talk to who have failures consider it a huge problem.

You what would be cool? If the guys who sell them would warn the customers that they might rotate. Then the customer can keep an eye on them or choose to buy another shock.

 

I didn't say I don't consider it a problem - quit putting words in my mouth- it is a problem but not a failure - stop using failure when it's not the case. Nothing has exploded or failed. When my tire rubs on the body mount -is that a failure too? Nobody warns or tells them that their new tires will rub but they accept it as normal due to the design.

 

LOL Are you telling me Dragos didn't have a "failure"??? Damn shock FELL OFF HIS TRUCK while he was driving, bent the shaft in half and everything. Sorry man, but ADS is the only shock I know of that rotates and has problems failures or whatever you want to call it.

 

Thats 1 and yes i already said that was a failure. But the pics of scratches you posted is not a failure.
I wonder how the new King 3.0 bypass is setup. Has to be the same unless you change the top mount - cause that was never designed for a bypass and allows a shock to rotate.