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How do I go about restoring my paint? (pic heavy)

Discussion in 'Detailing' started by Outbound, Jun 18, 2018.

  1. Jun 18, 2018 at 6:49 PM
    #1
    Outbound

    Outbound [OP] SSEM #2.5, Token AmeriCanadian

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    My truck is 13 years old. I'm pretty sure it's never been waxed or polished. Lots of little rock ships and such in the paint and from the right angles you can even see a bit of an orange tint from the brake rotor dust etc that's embedded in it.

    What do I need to do to get my paint looking great again? So far, I've figured out I should probably start with IronX, then a touch up paint pen, then clay bar or Nanoskin, then wash and wax.

    Does that sound about right?

    Some of the chips and embedded rust dust is on the plastic fender flares. Can I treat those the same as the paint on the metal body?

    Oh and due to my intolerance for monotony, after the paint is restored, I'm not likely to do a full clay bar and wax job more than once a year if that. I'm not OCD enough for that, but I still want it to look decent with out the rust spots and orange tint. If I'm able to do something with a power polisher and wax in under an hour or so a couple times a year to keep it in good condition I'm willing to do that.

    Right now, I'm guessing I have at least a full day's work ahead of me...ugh.

    Here's some pics to give you an idea what I need to deal with.

    20180616_111411_preview.jpg 20180616_113244_preview.jpg 20180616_113253_preview.jpg 20180616_113258_preview.jpg 20180616_113306_preview.jpg 20180616_113320_preview.jpg 20180616_115825_preview.jpg 20180616_115852_preview.jpg
     
  2. Jun 18, 2018 at 7:09 PM
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    War Machine

    War Machine SSEM # 5 3MW

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    While Iron-X and Nanoskin will make it look much better, I don’t think it’s going to get those spots out. If you have access to a polisher, try some compound and polish after the decontamination. I think I’d do those things before the touch up pen.

    And honestly, the decontamination won’t take long. The Iron-X year you just spray on, let it dwell for less than five minutes, and rinse it off. Using a clay bar will take quite while, but nanoskin sponges are much faster. A Nanoskin mitt is faster still.

    It all depends on how much you need to get out. A few weeks ago, I washed, Iron-X, Nanoskin mitt, and washed again. Took right at an hour, but my truck is less than a year old. When I did my wife’s Sequoia, it took maybe a half hour longer. The Iron-X makes the “claying” go much faster.
     
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  3. Jun 18, 2018 at 7:17 PM
    #3
    Outbound

    Outbound [OP] SSEM #2.5, Token AmeriCanadian

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    For a polisher, are the ones I mount to a cordless drill acceptable? Any suggestions on compound and polish?

    For the Nanoskin, should I start on a med grit then go up to fine?

    I figured I'd do the touch up pen before the final polish so everything blends in. But I guess the pen process would bring everything out to match anyways?

    Sorry for the noob questions. My last 2 trucks were newer and didn't have paint issues so detailing the paint never crossed my mind. They were silver too, so they hid everything. LOL
     
  4. Jun 18, 2018 at 7:39 PM
    #4
    War Machine

    War Machine SSEM # 5 3MW

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    I’m no expert either. Just sharing my experience. I haven’t used the drill mount polisher, but it may work. I think you’d have to be more careful. A DA polisher is made to where if you push too hard, it will stop spinning. Makes it hard to burn your paint up. With the drill, you’d be relying on your own judgement. Depending on your budget, Harbor Freight has a really good one. I think I got mine for 50.00 on sale. Some places may rent them also? You have to get the pads also though.

    As for compound and polish, Meguair’s Ultimate line is available pretty much everywhere. Walmart or any auto parts store will have them.

    The rule of thumb for nanoskin or anything you’re rubbing on your car is start with the least aggressive, and work your way up if necessary. I have the fine grade, and it’s handled all of my needs in my family’s vehicles. I do have a medium grade nanoskin sponge, but haven’t used it yet. You can always do more, but if you start too aggressive you can’t go back. The medium is more likely to mar the paint.

    I don’t actually know if doing the pen before or after is better. I was just thinking that through the other steps, you might not need the touch up as much. You could still polish over it again if it needs it.
     
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  5. Jun 18, 2018 at 8:03 PM
    #5
    Outbound

    Outbound [OP] SSEM #2.5, Token AmeriCanadian

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    Good stuff, thanks for the info. It gives me a good starting point. :D
     
  6. Jun 19, 2018 at 11:54 AM
    #6
    blizz86

    blizz86 New Member

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    The tiny dust sized specks of rust should be able to be removed by Iron x. Anything larger than a dust sized speck, especially if its rippled you will need to perform body work to remove that rust. Heavy sanding up to cutting out the rust on what looks to be your door edge.
     
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  7. Jun 19, 2018 at 11:58 AM
    #7
    4x4_Angel

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  8. Jun 19, 2018 at 12:04 PM
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    Professional Hand Model

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    Outside of a new paint job, anything else is just a masking of what you have. The rust looks like it needs to be sanded out/off. Neutralized with ospho. Etc.
     
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  9. Jun 19, 2018 at 12:30 PM
    #9
    kstateskier

    kstateskier New Member

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    One days worth of work is probably wishful thinking.

    I've spent as much as 6 full days doing complete paint correction on trucks the size of The Tundras. Several of those bubbled rust spots will not simply polish out. They will require aggressive body work and repaint.
     
  10. Jun 19, 2018 at 1:32 PM
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    Darth Tundra

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  11. Jun 19, 2018 at 3:41 PM
    #11
    Outbound

    Outbound [OP] SSEM #2.5, Token AmeriCanadian

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    Hmm, not a fan of aggressive body work. Body work = $$$$ around here. That rust patch on the corner is actually down by the bumper next to my tailgate. Kind of hidden so I don't mind sanding that down and doing a fix that's "10ft good" in that spot.

    The rust spots on the roof and A-pillar are ones I really want to make disappear. The rest sounds like it'll come out with decontamination and polishing.
     
  12. Jun 19, 2018 at 4:21 PM
    #12
    tye

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    You need a new paint job
     
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  13. Jun 19, 2018 at 4:31 PM
    #13
    Nickhood23

    Nickhood23 New Member

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    What does ironx do??
     
  14. Jun 19, 2018 at 4:40 PM
    #14
    Outbound

    Outbound [OP] SSEM #2.5, Token AmeriCanadian

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    Quiet you. :smack: :lalala:

    LOL. I'd be better off buying a new truck. Probably be cheaper...waaaaiiit a minute... :yes:
     
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  15. Jun 19, 2018 at 4:41 PM
    #15
    Outbound

    Outbound [OP] SSEM #2.5, Token AmeriCanadian

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    Decontaminates the paint by removing all those orange spots made by brake dust etc. Don't ask me how. LOL
     
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  16. Jun 19, 2018 at 4:43 PM
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    tye

    tye New Member

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    :rofl:
     
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  17. Jun 19, 2018 at 4:44 PM
    #17
    Nickhood23

    Nickhood23 New Member

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    This may be crazy but is that all the random black dots that cover my white truck it's like you can't see them till your right on it looking
     
  18. Jun 19, 2018 at 4:51 PM
    #18
    Outbound

    Outbound [OP] SSEM #2.5, Token AmeriCanadian

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    Quite probably. Could be tiny paint chips too from sand etc.
     
  19. Jun 19, 2018 at 5:16 PM
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    Nickhood23

    Nickhood23 New Member

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    Ok perfect yeah I can scrape them off but there is like a million of them gonna try that stuff
     
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  20. Jun 19, 2018 at 5:19 PM
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    Outbound

    Outbound [OP] SSEM #2.5, Token AmeriCanadian

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    If you can scrape them off, they're probably tar spatters from the asphalt. Something like a clay bar or Nanoskin would probably deal with them as well.

    I'll tell you a secret...white's the fastest color for a reason. It has to go fast enough you miss all the paint flaws it shows. :rofl:
     
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  21. Jun 19, 2018 at 5:33 PM
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    MOQS

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    Do the wash, decontamination, rinse well, clay, wash and dry, paint correction with an orbital buffer, wipe with detailer spray, then wax for now. You can deal with the larger rust spots later but not too much later as they will get progressively worse.
     
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  22. Jun 19, 2018 at 5:44 PM
    #22
    Outbound

    Outbound [OP] SSEM #2.5, Token AmeriCanadian

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    For dealing with the larger spots, is that likely going to require a body shop job or is sanding and a touch up pen going to be enough?
     
  23. Jun 19, 2018 at 6:10 PM
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    Professional Hand Model

    Professional Hand Model A.K.A ‘Golden Hands’

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    Forget about it and drive her into the ground! (Based on your response comments).
     
  24. Jun 19, 2018 at 6:28 PM
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    MOQS

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    The larger rust spots should be dealt with by a professional body shop. Often surface rust goes much deeper than the eye can see.
     
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  25. Jun 20, 2018 at 5:00 AM
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    briarpatch

    briarpatch New Member

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    The most significant rust spot on there will likely go beyond sanding it down. I think what you will find is that metal will need to be replaced there. Spots like that, when hit with a media blaster, typically end up looking perforated. Is that on the bed corner below the tail lamp?
     
  26. Jun 20, 2018 at 5:49 AM
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    Outbound

    Outbound [OP] SSEM #2.5, Token AmeriCanadian

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    Yeah, its under the tail lamp, on the corner next to the tailgate.
     
  27. Jun 20, 2018 at 2:04 PM
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    blizz86

    blizz86 New Member

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    That particular part - if you want to DIY - hit it with a wire wheel and possibly grinder to get all the rust out. You could get away with body filler afterwards and loads of sanding.
     
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  28. Jun 20, 2018 at 3:23 PM
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    treihing

    treihing MAGA

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  29. Jun 20, 2018 at 3:28 PM
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    Outbound

    Outbound [OP] SSEM #2.5, Token AmeriCanadian

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    No money for a new truck. I do accept donations though. I see you have a very lovely 2018 Limited which most likely has a great paint job. I'll take good care of it should you feel generous enough to donate it to my cause. :cheers:
     
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  30. Jun 20, 2018 at 5:45 PM
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    Pudge

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    Wash really well, maybe with dish soap. Then ironX, then clay bar / clay mitt/ nanoskin, wash, then maybe some kind of IPA mix like carpro eraser, then dry, next is a good sealant, then wax. There's a ton more you can do but that's what I'm gonna do in the next few weeks. You must seal or wax after ironX and clay
     
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