What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

Doing mine soon I have 105K

Any tips?

 

A 4lb hammer and a few solid hits on the lca end at the ball joint releases it a lot easier than a ball joint separator. Don’t forget red loctite on the 4 bolts(61 ft lb) into the spindle. Ball joint castle nut is 103 ft lb. A few hour job and pretty straight forward/easy.

 

Thats my next project

 

Bought the truck with 162k and there wasn’t any play in either but appeared that the boots were starting to leak grease. I’d rather be on the safe side and start with fresh parts after reading all the horror stories and seeing pics of failures.

Inspected the ubj and noticed a lot of grease/debris build up on the boots so I might be starting the suspension upgrades sooner than I thought.

 

I just ponied up the money for the upper and lowers through Camelback Toyota. Gotta love free Fedex on all orders over 150.00 Cheaper than through a regular dealer.

 

Did front brakes and struts yesterday and this morning I did rear shoes and drums. What I don't understand is I purchased this Tundra in Sept. of 2000 and up until now never have had to replace the rear shoes, and really I could probably go another 18 years on them. They just don't wear at all, I have changed the rotors in the front twice and the pads 4 times. That's in 138,000. Up until I changed to the newer bigger rotors it just kept warping them. How do I adjust a little more to the rear?? I have asked in another forum and was told if I do they will lock up, Really??

 

They won't lock up. I adjust until the drum drags when you spin it.

 

Still, wont wear the shoes. I've got 193k original shoes.

 

Well I know there is a valve on the back that you can change to add more, but I don't want to do it without some kind of advice on how much to change. Thanks for your reply. Chuck.

 

Come to think of it, I’ve never replaced my rear shoes in 157k miles! Did replace the rear bearings about 10k ago. Truck rides so much better since.

 

Oil change and gave her a bath. My paint needs some serious attention...

 

Every 3 years or so the 2002 Tundra comes up for re-evaluation as to whether she is worthy for another reinvestment. She sits with 157k purely stock (except for 285/75/r16 tires slight rub) and has been the best vehicle ever owned by me. After much debate and study on this site in consideration of buying a new Tundra, I’ve decided to reinvest for another 3 years.

She is going into the shop soon (rather pay someone while I go make money) to get 4 new Bilsteins 5100 and front upper/lower ball joints. This will be the 3rd set of shocks, second set of upper, and 3rd set of lower ball joints since owning.

I took her up to the stealership last week for the factory recall for rust. She was going in just for inspection and next thing they say is juice is being sprayed on the rear cross member. All is well with the frame and they sprayed the juice as preventative. Personally, I would have stopped them from spraying if I had known ahead of time.

Reasons for not buying new Tundra: 2002 payload is better than new, new Tundra has too many nannies, 2002 has better rear suspension, 2002 is the proper size and not too big, 2002 has better gas mileage than new, 2002 has a far superior ride, newer Tundras are squeaky inside and ride very stiff, 2002 has chrome! If I did buy new it would be the Tundra SR5 DC 4x4 Cement TRD package.

Another reason for not buying new is battery tech and gas mandates forcing rapid changes in upcoming engine designs so right now is a wait it out and see approach. Hoping the 02’ holds in there for another 3 years!

 

Very well thought out decision! I agree with you on everything, even with the new cement DC! With the new parts, you should be fine getting another three plus years out of the 02, except for the billies.

 

The repair bills are factored in to the equation calculus. My state would would tax a new Tundra at about $2,500 a year! The repair cost is just north of a new truck tax per year. 2002 tax sits about $150 year. My repair is offset/justified due to high taxes plus from reading all the other testimonies on here of others getting 250-350k miles on their first gens gives me confidence.

 

Damn, what state are you in? At 157k, you’re truck is barely broken in.

 

Well guys I've done it, After owning this truck for almost 18 years and never needing to change the rear brakes, I've adjusted the Load sensing proportioning and bypass valve. How can the shoes still be almost new after all these miles? I don't recommend this to anyone out there, but I will do my own test. After all the work I have done to the front brakes I think without a doubt mine needs more rear brakes. So I have changed the drums and shoes and adjusted the valve, brakes now feel better. I think the pedal feels much firmer and stopping is better, I'll report back soon. Chuck.

 

I'm not trading/selling my 06. I love it. Something craps out, I'll fix it. With personal property tax in Virginia, idk how some people afford new cars. My service writer bought a 16 Camry and her PPT was a solid chunk of money every six months. Naaaaaaa. I'm good. I'll keep my Nissan which is just about 17.00 every six months and my Tundra which is 100.00 every six months.

 

A high tax city (not state as I wrongly mentioned above). Not to mention, I pay local taxes on my trailer and tools every year I own them. Made the money and paid the tax on the money to buy the tools that get taxed every year in ownership. Good deal right?

Only thing making the purchase of a new vehicle worth the investment is this years new change on the Sec 179 (fed tax rule) allowing 100% write off on qualifying vehicles. Interestingly the ‘Crew Max’ doesn’t ‘fully’ qualify whereas, the DC does. Its about the minimum ‘cargo bed size’ of 6’.

We still get taxed on the prop value in our city. Not worth a new truck for me until The 02’ runs into the ground. I consider that ‘tax’ as an excuse to reinvest back into the 02’. This strategy only works on a reliable vehicle!

http://www.section179.org/section_179_vehicle_deductions/

 

Working on fixing the coolant leak, but I got the wrong gasket from rock auto. I'll have to run down the street and pick one up from the parts store

 

Got ahold of a can of plastidip for the first time today. Did all my badges, and got a bit creative with the front emblem. I need to redo the tailgate badges but everything else turned out pretty well.

 

I like that a lot. Can you tell us what you used? I am thinking of doing that.

 

I just used plastidip for all of the black. To do the blue behind the emblem I pulled the grill off the truck, took off them emblem, taped off the area behind it and spray painted it blue. I felt the blue would go well with the white

 

Well done

 

Thanks!

 

I'm definitely not casting aspersions on your design, but funny story: the first time I saw this I thought "they're making hybrid Tundras now?!?" I always associate the blue (or green) accent like that with hybrid or electric vehicles.

 

It looks really good! I approve, especially since I too have a white truck and I'm planning to PlastiDip my badges. You've given me a great idea of what to expect.

 

I didnt even think of that, I wish I got the mpg of a hybrid!

 

You guys with the white Tundras claim that just being white improves gas mileage, increases horsepower, enhances sex appeal, and raises the driver's IQ, right? So I'm sure your blue emblem adds at least 1-2mpg.

 

No pics but I did steering rack bushings last night. I used the energy suspension graphite impregnated bushings.