Oil Capacity with the 5.7 V8

Did an oil change today. I'm at 8.5 inbetween the dots. I'll check it again tomorrow. Would anyone know if the dipstick on a Pro is longer or shorter then a non Pro Tundra? Could having a lifted/leveled front end change the oil reading on the dipstick? Or, if your front end sits higher then the rear.

 

My 2014 5.7 took exactly 8.0 quarts when I did it myself. (I always put 1/2 a quart short, run it for a few minutes, wait a few minutes, and check the dipstick and add until it's full.)

My last oil change was by my dealer (I also needed tires rotated) and as soon as I took delivery I stopped outside to check it. (I do trust Toyota mechanics but I also verify!)

My favorite synthetic is Amsoil but I can live with Valvoline and Mobile One.

 

So I took in my 5.7 (brought with mobile 1 0w-20) for a oil and filter change the guy said he didn’t see any oil on the stick at 8 so added a 9th quart now when it’s been sitting 20 min it measures about a quarter inch above the top dot. Should I have them drain a bit out?

 

I may be a little more particular than some, and less than others. With that said, I would. Were you someone that I knew personally, I would also suggest that you find someone else to change your oil. If at 8 quarts (which is enough) there isn't oil visible on the dipstick, I wouldn't add an entire additional quart. Add a little, like 1/4 quart at a time until seen on the stick. Run the engine for a minute or so, let it sit for a few minutes then check again. How I do my personal vehicle is pour in 7.5 qts, run, sit, check and add until it's more that half between the dots.

 

about to do my first oil change and I'm going to do exactly that... put in 7.5 qt, let it sit a while, and either add nothing or 0.5 qt

 

So I should ask them to shoot for half way between the dots after a five min sit?

 

if you have a 2013 start with 7.5 and expect not to need any extra

 

I am assuming it’s ok to just pull the plug out for a bit and drain some and stick it back in? Never done that, will it cause it to leak?

 

I ask because I’m going on a long road trip starting very soon. I brought the truck home have driven about 25 miles today after picking it up from the oil change. But I need to get this dialed in before I leave on the trip. Truck only has 36k miles on it.

 

You may be better off not even removing the plug, the oil might come out too fast. And then trying to get the bolt back in while it's gushing could make an enormous mess. Unthread the plug so that the oil trickles out, it'll be much more manageable to control the flow. Try to catch it in something where you can guesstimate about 1/2 to one quart has been drained, run the engine for a minute or two, turn it off and let it sit for three to five minutes. Then pull the dipstick, wipe it clear, reinsert and pull it checking the level. It doesn't need to be exactly at the full dot, just anywhere between them.

It really should not leak after doing this, it may look damp for a few heat cycles though. Certainly keep an eye on it to try to be sure before your trip. Remember to not over-tighten the drain bolt, should be 30 ft-lbs if you have a torque wrench available.

 

I’m leaving in 3 days so I don’t have a bunch of time, I need to be good to drive 3000 miles. Perhaps I should just do a complete change out again?

 

You could remove the filter and drain, maybe more than once to get level down. Or have the shop who filled it do it.

 

Ultimately, the decision is yours. I can't hurt to ask the person that did the change to correct the situation, just so you don't have to worry about it on your journey.

 

It’s been redone and they said they added 7.6 quarts. It’s reading at the half way between the dot point and I confirmed they did you a new aluminum crush washer and used a torque wrench and torqued to 30 ft lbs. So am I good to have the oil right at the middle between dots after warming the truck and the letting it sit for 5 then again warm and sit for 15 same results? My first oil change in this truck so not sure what to expect. I did notice post oil change the oil pressure gauge seems to fluctuate more now. When sitting or cruising on the freeway it’s just a hair under the halfway but upon acceleration it goes up to three quarters of the way to the top (or a hair over that even). Is that all normal? I don’t remember it climbing so high at acceleration before but I don’t know what oil was in it before (since I didn’t own the truck who knows) and honestly I don’t know how much either I didn’t look. I asked Toyota to fill a plastic oil quart for me to take with just in case but do you all think I should ask him to add the 0.3 or 0.25 quarts to get it closer to 7.9 which is what the book says to put in if doing a filter also.

 

You’re good man don’t stress. As long as the oil is in between the marks you’re golden.

The manual states 7.9. But that’s full to the top. Just check your oil when you get gas and as long as it still showing go with it. I might burn through a half a quart or less through 5000 miles of driving. And that’s city bullshit too. Out on the highway it’s just purring at a low RPM. Don’t overthink it. Keep an eye on your gauges like a normal person and enjoy your trip. Oil pressure fluctuates with RPM that’s normal. And when the oil is fresh it’s even more noticeable. You should see the first GEN tundra or sequoia oil pressure gauge. When you’re at idle it drops way down. Then to well over half under load.

 

Cool thanks a bunch. I don’t know a whole lot about cars but I’m the only one who knows anything my husband doesn’t get them at all and I’m sort of a gauge watcher and mechanic understanding person by type. I like to know how things work why they work and make sure they are right. My husband could have his whole dash could be flashing at him for a month he wouldn’t notice so I have to be the one lol. He just drives to relieve me. Good thing he is 6’4” and cute otherwise he might get traded in for another model lol. So to be clear the oil pressure is under the battery gauge and normal battery seems to be about 13. Oil pressure at full operating temp idol seems to be a bit less than half and you say way up under load. Engine temp sits right under half all the time and the transmission fluid looks like it’s right at the middle. Is that all where it’s supposed to be. I’m new to this truck so I’m just trying to get used to where things should be. I’ve always wanted a green tundra and I finally got it. I want to make sure I don’t break it

 

Sorry Miss, I didn’t mean to call you man. I’m so used to having 99.9% men on this forum. From your description it sounds like everything’s normal. The transmission I couldn’t tell you as the third generation that I own doesn’t have a transmission dipstick. Or a temp gauge.

 

That ok I love my truck. I did get on the wait list for auto mechanic class in junior college but the list was so long by the time I made it to the top of the list I had graduated that college gone to another got my BA and then was in grad school lol so I never go :-( So I just try and pick up what I can when I can. My husband is no help if it wasn’t for me he wouldn’t change the wiper blades let alone the oil he is just oblivious to anything car related lol. We have swapped gender rolls in this way for sure.

 

Here’s you



Here’s your husband




Lol jk

 

LOL pretty much sums it up.

Example just the other day he says:
him:babe my car might be making a strange noise.
Me: what kind of noise
Him: kind of a grinding metal noise when I hit the brakes
Me: (knowing my husband) does it always do it or just once, and how long have you not been telling me about this noise?
Him: well it was only doing it sometimes a month or two ago but the past couple days it’s been doing it a lot
Me: ok here is my 4Runner key take this to work I’ll deal with it.
Him: thanks, hope it’s not a big deal

He was metal on metal on his passenger side front brakes

He only gets 35k out of them this time it was 30. Honda Fit breaks suck a bunch

 

As far as gauges are concerned, they typically design them to sit in the middle (+/- a little) at the operating temperatures ... That way it will be easier to glance and see that everything is ok.
The middle is also ok with the engine oil dipstick. Your car is relatively new and should not be burning too much oil. You can add a little oil and top it off now or check it after 500 miles ... let the car sit overnight, it will be easier to read the dipstick in some cars. I can tell that you may be more relaxed if the oil is at the full mark, so just do it

 

@Juliadeer
It sounds to me that you're on the right track. Oil level sounds fine from your description, as do the gauges. That Spruce Mica Green is a spectacular color when it's taken care of, and it's not that common. Excellent choice!

 

I thought this was a lame topic but I just got my first change by the dealer. They had on their work order 9. I assume qts, but not sure. The oil level is high on the dip stick, even after being off for a couple hours. I’ll check it again tomorrow morning.

 

It is kinda lame, especially since it shouldn’t be that hard to change the oil and put in the correct amount. But for your info I know the tech put in a full 9quarts in mine and my stick only showed past the full line like another 1/3 of a quart (assuming you were using the space between the two lines as a measure of 1 quart). But the dang thing was over a quart over filled. So perhaps the stick is not a great measure of quantity past the full line? I don’t know exactly how the sick measures it but I wasn’t loving the fact that it didn’t look as full as it was. 7.6 was the second oil change (the next day) and it put me at about 2/3 between the lines. By the way is it really 10k oil changes? I might ignore that and do it at 5k which I’ll be at in the next week as my road trip ended up being 4200 miles.

 

I remeasure the oil again (a few times) and it is still high about a 1/4 inch above the top dot, so maybe a 1/4 qt high.

On thing to note is that I saw that Toyota recommends being topped off, at the high dot if you are doing the 10K interval.

I’ll reiterate that I do towing of a small trailer in the mountains, so I’ll error on the conservative side and call it severe driving. I’ll stick with the 5 K change interval.

 

Mine looked like that 1/4 to 1/3 of an inch over the top line at 9 quarts but that makes no sense. Because at 7.6 it was a bit over half way between the dots. If it was only a 1/4 of a quart high then putting in only 8 should drop it to a 1/4 above the low line. But 7.6 has it at 2/3s to full. So my only thought is that past the full line the accuracy of the stick isn’t even close to exact.

 

My brother had a Toyota Tercel 20 years ago. A minimalist approach to cars in general. He added oil when the oil light came on. I don’t think he ever changed the oil. It was stored at my house for a while and I took pity on it, I changed the oil. Clumps came out. It was still running fine at 130K when I sold it as it was not being used. I try not to get too anal about oil levels. lol

 

I decided to use my TopSider to vacuum out some oil, to get it back to the top dot. I used an old empty peanut jar to get an idea of the quantity of oil overfill. It was more than I would have thought. The oil is black as I used the TopSider on my diesel VW, and had maybe a couple of tablespoons remained on the interior of the TopSider.

Attached are a few photos.

 

Mine is 2012 5.7
New 7.9qt oil, new filter and drove about 100miles..
And check the level.

 

In my notes, I have 7.9 qts with no filter change. 8.5 with filter change. I just changed my oil without filter and it was 7.9 without filter change. Oil was allowed to drain till a slow drop came out. Oil pan plug pulled, installed a Fumoto valve.(Third oil change at 9088 miles, filter changed at 4000 miles). My Mobil 1 seems quieter engine running vs Castro’s from dealer. My 2 cents.