Another rear axle question

2004 Tundra quad cab, V8, Auto, SR5.

For a while there has been a momentary lag of power going to rear wheels once I hard braked. Took to shop to get opinion and while driving, it did it again and when the gears finally engaged (RPMs were up a bit), the rear differential "broke." After approximately $5,000 in estimated repairs, I decided to replace the rear axle from hub to hub with one from a dismantler. In researching, there are more questions than answers. Code on door frame is A02A. I found a site that says that is a 3.727 ratio. Cannot find any around with that ratio. Found some A03A rear ends (4.100 ratio). I do not tow super heavy loads and wonder if that will suffice? And the few that I have found have the welded on tabs in different places on the axle housings. Suggestions? I have replaced the whole rear axle on a F250 and it was straight forward enough. Just a bit intimidated by all the different configurations on the Tundra.

Thanks.

 

First off, it it 4wd?

What actually “broke” in the diff? Just the gears? If so, a new set of 3.73’s would be the cheaper route.

 

I'm not sure. The estimate included a new carrier assembly ($2,181) and two axles ($607 each) as the three most expensive parts. When in Park or Neutral everything sounds fine. Drop into gear and one can move forward or backward a foot or two then hear and feel clunking in the differential. Noise also happens when truck is pushed while in Neutral. I have not opened it to inspect. With so much wrong, I'm tempted to find an entire replacement assembly and install it myself but all the ones I find are different in location of tabs for brake lines, etc.

 

This “8.4” is used in different applications with various mounting locations for brake lines and springs.

If you’re up to the task, I say pull/inspect the axles and disassemble the 3rd member. Sounds like you lost some teeth but hopefully you didn’t damage the axle splines. If it’s just the carrier assembly, contact East Coast Gear Supply and they can definitely help you out with anything.

 

Thank you! I might try that. Let me take my courage pills!

 

You got it! If it’s already broken, can’t hurt it anymore. There are a few videos on YouTube that can walk you through the disassembly.

 

After some research, you should have 4.10’s. 04 double cab V8’s have 4.10’s and 05/06 double cabs have 3.91’s. The “spin and count” method will confirm.

 

Okay, rear axle repaired. Now the engine will not accelerate. It idles just fine. Apparently the actuator motor driving the accelerator will not operate. Mechanic is at a loss. I had to put it in drive and idle to the mechanic (a mile from the axle shop). Is there anything that repairing the axle could have done to the trucks computer? The mechanic ha swapped in working actuator motor and throttle body... none get the truck beyond idle. Any ideas?

Thanks.

Eric

 

Check ECTS fuse, if ok check TPS.
Use scan tool to see if throttle plate is opening and tps votages change as accelerator is depressed.
If fuse was culprit clean you MAF.

 

It was a fuse... one the mechanic said was "hidden" so I do not know which it was.
Thank you for your help, Casper and Nick.

Eric

 

Clean your MAF and throttle body butterfly, carbon buildup causes the butterfly to 'stick' which leads to over voltage spike and a burned ECTS fuse.
Glad you got your truck running.

 

Glad you got it fixed. Yeah. Clean that MAF and throttle body like Nick says. Also, you can retension your throttle cable when finished cleaning throttle body. Your engine will feel peppy afterwards.