First time DIY front/rear Diffs, xfer case

2014 tundra 4x4 cm 5.7l ffv. I am doing the oil change on my differentials and transfer case this weekend. First time ever doing anything like that on any vehicle. I couldn't stomach their price. Why this weekend? A rare 75 degrees on Friday and Saturday thats why!

So far i have on the way

2 quarts RAVENOL J1C1003 SAE 75W Manual Transmission Fluid - MTF-3 Full Synthetic

(Dont think i need xfer case washers) GENUINE TOYOTA GASKET KIT FOR TRANSFER AND DIFFERENTIAL SERVICE

1. 

I am going to oreillys in a bit to grab some 75W-90 synthetic gear oil (i know it calls for 75W-85 but after a lot of reading many are saying 75W-90 is fine. Also going to grab a pump and a torque wrench.

Dealership wanted $350 for this to be done.

Any tips, hints, recommendations?

Also, I need to purchase a book for this truck.

I think I found torque specs: 29ftlb front, 18 ftlb xfer case, 36 ftlb rear.......can anyone confirm?

 

Good luck with your project. I just had this done.......by the dealership. They only charged me $285 for that, which seemed fair (Iguess) for what they were doing. Ive heard the Haynes manuals are better than the others, FWIW.

 

Hello, when I performed the same I made notes of best acces and what tool size.
Also I posted a Ravenol VOA in another post. Any questions let me know. At work right now, home later.

 

Thanks for that, probably going to pick up a book. $285 a lot better than $360. Mostly now I am time committed to this. Have everything for the job.

 

I have seen a Ravenol test result on a forum post somewhere and it checked out good. I do have a question though, torque ftlb front 29 transfer 18 and rear 36? I still have to get a book.

 

Here is my list: minus quantity and torque
trans case,18mm thread, 3/8 ratchet to remove, bash plate removal for less mess, under drivers front door for best access.
front diff, 10mm hex to remove, 18mm has crush washer, 24mm has copper(brass?) washer, front left in front of tire for access
rear diff, 18mm socket, two silver crush washers, rear access
atf, 14mm wrench, 12mm drain plug, 24mm socket fill plug with o-ring, front drivers door to access, 4 quarts drained at 60f bought new from dealer, add 3/8 magnefine inline filter, diy flush-search forums
engine oil filter, choose best removal tool for you
engine oil, 14mm wrench, front pass side door for access
power steering flush, 3/8 barb on front left engine side return line coming up from ps cooler, follow return line backwards on reservoir to first rubber hose to metal, add 3/8 magnefine filter

This is a list I made of the way I do it. Open to any suggestions otherwise.

 

Here is my tip. Remove the fill plug before you remove the drain plug. This is so you know you can refill before you drain it.
This is easier than an engine oil change. But I would get a 6 sided socket instead of a 12 unless you already have them. The bolts are aluminum so the heads are soft, try to keep the ratchet flat on the bolt head.

Double check the fluid required for the transfer case. Toyota moved to a very special fluid in the T case a few years ago and its expensive af. It might not be the same fluids as the front and rear diff. Get a can of brake cleaner to clean up messes and to clean the magnetic drain plugs.

The rear diff is going to stink like crazy, you'll be able to taste it.

 

Also alldatadiy.com is an excellent resource. Its step by step instructions on everything regarding the vehicle. Its a real mechanics guide and what some dealerships use. I think the yearly membership is like $20ish. I used it to rebuild a cylinder head on an old honda civic.