Sound matting worth it?

Man I'm impressed you're going all out and sounds like you are doing it at a professional level. I'm just hoping the soundskins, the SDS tiles, and butly rope I picked up will be worth it. I figure anything is better than nothing though, right? And like you I plan on doing it in stages, doors/rear wall first, then ceiling (let your visor slam shut against the ceiling and listen to it reverberate) then floors if the sound deadening is still not quiet enough (although I have been thinking about adding line-ex to the bottom)

 

I wish I could do a pro job, some guys here have done some amazing work.
I have enough CLD tiles to do a couple I'm each door, back wall and floor. That should help with vibrations. I just found this stuff at home depot called Relfectix that I'll out down above exhaust and transmission tunnel that is supposed to reflect heat and some sound. Then a layer of closed cell foam wherever I can get it, that will be laminated with spray glue to MLV (this was the most expensive item by far at 109 bucks for 50 sq ft but it's supposed to be best for blocking sound. The foam and MLV I'll measure , cut and glue together then glue and Velcro it to doors, flood and rear wall. I also plan to get some frost king foam duct wrap to use in a few places, it's cheap and looks like it'll be effective. Idk if I'll ever get to the ceiling but that sure would be nice cuz it's noisy as hell. I wanna do the firewall and maybe wheel wells at some point too.

Frost king.... https://www.homedepot.com/p/E-O-12-in-x-15-ft-Self-Stick-Foam-Foil-Duct-Insulation-FV516/100028603
Relfectix...https://www.homedepot.com/p/Reflect...-Insulation-with-Staple-Tab-ST16025/100012574
Closed cell foam "decoupling layer"... https://m.ebay.com/itm/High-Density...836462?itemId=152413836462&varId=451707787031
Mass loaded vinyl (MLV) ...https://www.acoustimac.com/soundpro...olEnEF7ss_3Ck_FHkviQqKfWsZSocJNYaAiB2EALw_wcB
Noico sound deadening tiles ...(CLD)

$40 Noico 80 mil 18 sqft car Sound deadening mat, Butyl Automotive Sound Deadener, Audio Noise Insulation and dampening

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B012...d+deadener&dpPl=1&dpID=514x2J9OC7L&ref=plSrch

I'll also need some good spray adhesive, heavy duty hook and loop (velvro). A wallpaper roller to make this stuff stick.
I could get a can or undercoat spray to hit the areas above the exhaust on the floor boards but not sure that's worth it. I'm sure a few things here and there will pop up.
I'm not stripping the entire interior out. I'll do the back seats and see how that goes then probably do one front seat at a time and also one door at a time. It'll take me a long time.
If I have leftover material, such as MLV or closed cell foam I figure I could use adhesive to stick it to the underside of my weathertech floor liners. Every little bit helps right?

 

SDS sells his Velcro that is made to handle the weight of the mlv, it may be worth it if it holds as well as advertised. You have the factory JBL system and you are keeping the HU correct?

 

Yeah I have a JBL system and actually don't plan on changing any components any time soon. I have dirty deeds 6" exhaust and it's louder than stock. My main goal is to quiet the cabin and reduce rattles. I believe the stereo will sound better after all this work buy believe it or not, that's not my main goal.
Excused my ignorance but what's SDS? I'll check out their Velcro need something good.

 

I bought the Kilmat 50ft off Ebay for a little over $50.
https://www.ebay.com/ulk/itm/252240911333


Have half left over from doing all 4 doors and wall behind rear seat.

Am no sound connoisseurs but is there a difference??? Absolutely.

Door closes firm and with a seal.

Sound is more inside cabin.

 

Watching your thread closely. I want to sound deaden so my two dogs will want to ride with me again. They do not like the noise or vibration from BAmuffler 8” . Maybe my fiberglass tonneau cover is causing vibrations from exhaust too? Peace. D

 

It may be a month or so before I get around to doing this. I need it to warm up a little bit, get this maple syrup seasin wrapped up. And a day or 2 off of work. I'm hoping last week of May I'll have some time.
Need to buy some adhesive and Velcro and foil tape, and all my supplies should arrive in a week or so. I ended up getting 1/8" high density closed cell foam. I hope it all works out well. Seems like a daunting task. I may replece front door soeakers while I'm at it but not sure I have the budget for that and doubt it's worth it with the rest of the OEM JBL system.

 

SDS=Sound Deadner Showdown https://www.sounddeadenershowdown.com
Your concepts seem similar to his so I assumed that is where you got a lot of your info. He has a Velcro that he had developed to be able to hold the weight of MLV

 

Lol thanks. Yes this is where I got a lot of my ideas. I'll check out his Velcro. Thanks man!

 

My closed cell foam and mass loaded vinyl came in today. Hold shit the MLV is heavy. I just need to get some adhesive spray and Velcro and most importantly...some time and I'll be able to start doing this project.
I hope to get some done soon. I have a ton of yard work to do but I'll try and get some of this done this week. I'll post some pics as I go.

 

Just did my roof with stinger roadkill ultimate. Not as hard as I thought it would be.

 

Very cool. That seems like quite a job. Maybe that'll be my next step once I finish the other stuff.

 

Leks, how much of a difference have you noticed with the sound dampening overall? I'm thinking of just covering everything with dynamat and nothing more. I don't know enough to say this but am wondering if going with CLD/CCF/MLV would give me that much more isolation for all the extra work involved with it.

And did covering the roof add a noticeable change on top of what you've already done?

You did an awesome job, I'll say that again. I just don't have the fortitude to do all of it myself.

 

This is really what you need to do full sound dampening. The CLD alone will help a little but is mainly meant to cut down on vibrations. The MLV is what will kill road noise and keep the cabin quiet. The CCF doesn't have much sound as far as sound deadening qualities as it's more of a decoupling layer to put between the panel of the car and the MLV to keep them from rubbing together and rattling and vibrating.
Most installers recommend only covering about 25% of a flat panel with CLD, and only using it on flat surfaces, no need on ridges or bumps in the panels because those areas are already rigid.

 

Thanks Pudge, In your write up, you mentioned that you'll be gluing the CCF and MLV together. Which glue did you go with? Also, instead of using velcro to hold it to the doors, can you use the same glue?

 

Also, what thickness did you go with for CCF? 1/8 or 1/4?

 

Here are a few items you can get at home depot that some people use. The flooring underlam and Relfectix insulation can be used in the floor or roof, they also add an insulation value to keep the cab cool or warm.
The frost king is a self stick foam/foil that many people swear works as well and CLD, I have my doubts about that but I can see how it would work well to cut down on vibration and rattling.
I will be using 2 if these 3 above products, the frost king and one of the others, probably Relfectix. It'll be good on door panels and also on the floor to help block out heat from the trans and exhaust. It's cheap and easy enough to try it out.
The biggest thing about blocking out road noise and keeping in stereo noise is adding mass to the walls and floor of your vehicle. Some people go as far as adding sheets of lead to floors to add mass, MLV offers nearly as much mass as lead does.

 

I will use vinyl contact adhesive to glue them together, called h-h66 I believe. You can also use 3m spray I think. I think you can use spray adhesive to attach to panels but from what I read the way to go is use strong Velcro as it holds better and nakes it removable if you ever had to take it off. I may use both in some areas. I guess what you do is stick the Velcro to the MLV and overlay the CCF over it and cut out little squares out of the CCF where the Velcro tabs are, then glue them together. So when you stick the other side of the Velcro to the truck ots actually the heavy MLV thats attached, and it sandwiches the CCF in between.

I went with 1/8" because I wasn't sure that if I went thicker, the door panels would still fit on easily. You just need enough to pad between the panel and the MLV so 1/8 should be good. All MLV is 1/8 just fyi and it's crazy heavy, more so than I expected

 

Ok, got it thanks. And thanks for the links! The trafficmaster underlay looks like something I can use instead of CCF (for the floor and backwall)?

 

Here's a good read and what I'm pretty much going off of. I did a lot of research then found this info which pretty much was the sum of my hours of research in a 10 minute read https://www.sounddeadenershowdown.com

 

It might work well for that. I'm planning to use it on the back wall and floor, and maybe the Relfectix over the trans tunnel as well

 

Here's good pics of how to attach the CCF (shown in white) and MLV (black)

 

I would not attempt MLV on the roof, it's way to heavy and won't stay up, at least I can't imagine it would.

I don't have plans to do anything to my roof, but if I did I'd put up a few CLD tiles thrn maybe some of that underlayment stuff. And wrap anything that could rattle in foam or foam tape maybe

 

There is also Hydrophobic Melamine Foam, its a lot lighter

 

Yeah that stuff i cool. From what I gather it's the same material as the magic erasers. I haven't been able to find it in rolls or sheets, only sponge size haha

 

What pudge said is spot on. Cld is for vibrations, if you really want soundeadening qualities you’d have to do every step. My truck is much quieter than it used to be and after doing the roof and overhead console there’s absolutely no rattles. Even when turned to max volume. If i could add one suggestion, do it right the first time. I’d highly advise against the Home Depot stuff and spend the extra on materials made for vehicles. Not saying it definitely won’t work but what a pain in the ass it is to have to do this type of job twice. I did everything by the book but used the cheap noico self adhesive ccf and really paid for it in the end. MLV is MLV and you can pretty much get that anywhere. The CLD I’d spend the extra on, ive tried the Home Depot stuff on my old Acura integra back in the day, it smelled bad and didn’t stick like it was supposed to. Didn’t even make much of a difference either compared to what this stinger roadkill did for my truck. I’ve tried Dynamat, stinger and helped a buddy with his Soundskins. Stinger has the best adhesive out of those 3.

 

I’d also like to add that I have a lot of money into my audio system, over $6k so it was almost necessary for me to do the deadening lol. If you’re only looking to make the cab quieter, I’m not sure if it’s worth all the hassle. I’d have to ride in a stock second gen to freshen the memory

 

HAS ANYONE EVER TRIED LIZARDSKINS, IT IS A SPRAY ON SOUND CONTROL INSULATION, I KNOW A LOT OF HOTRODS USE IT
https://www.lizardskin.com

 

I've never used it but read about it during my research and it seems like awesome stuff

 

I have a JBL system in my 1794. The bass in the door speakers eventually caused my door panels to rattle. I installed the bulk pack of ballistic sound deadener on all four doors and back panel of rear glass. Was just looking to stop the rattles! I was amazed! All the rattles went away and a bonus... The sound quality of my JBL system improved three fold. Cleaner bass, mids, and highs. It was the best thing I have done. I recommend doing it. I plan to do the floors of cab next. Road noise did go down slightly.