Sound matting worth it?

Guys on the fishing forum I belong tell in a Tundra probably not. They say it helps eliminate vibration on some trucks with high power sound systems but that is it. Coming from a Tacoma I think the Tundra is quiet. I left rear seat down on Tacoma and that is where noise came from.

 

The sound proof/muffling will improve but unless you have a trained ear to hear the difference then you most likely won't. I did it to my corolla. I noticed the most difference with the doors. They sounded a tad bit more solid. Of course, I didn't buy dyna mat or anything, I used some stuff I got from home depot. It's used on HVAC stuff, silver on one side and grey sticky rubber on the other. It's like a 1/4" thick.

 

I installed dynamat throughout my truck. Doing the doors noticeably improved the sound of the factory speakers for the week I had both installed. Doing the floor cut down on road noise more than the doors did. If you look at my build thread, I have photos of the install.

 

Depends on your goal. Are you looking to make audio sound better or trying to make the cab quieter? They're not necessarily the same thing in my opinion. I put some dynamat (about a square foot) around the speakers in the doors because I had the panels off to tint the windows. As Cfincke has already touched on, I wouldn't have believed the difference if I didn't hear it for myself. Of course that didn't make the interior of my truck any quieter but it did obviously help with some of the acoustics and vibration coming from the doors/speakers.

If your goal is strictly to make the cab quieter then you would be likely be looking for something more foam oriented which is designed for reducing noise. You would also have to figure out the type of noise you're trying to stifle. If it's tires or road noise then doing the floorboard would definitely help and probably the back of the cab, headliner, then the doors to follow. The real question would be whether or not the impact is worth the effort. That's a personal decision. I did all this to a Saleen Mustang 15 years ago and I was happy with the result but it's not as dramatic as one might think. It did however make the doors feel tighter and the car more solid as a whole. The best I could describe it...before it sounded like a Mustang when you shut the doors and after it sounded more like my BMW. However, it didn't make much of an impact on the exhaust noise when cruising down the interstate at 80mph.

 

I'll revive this thread with a few questions.
I bought some noico sound deadening squares to stick on the doors and behind speaks to reduce some vibration and the tin sound of the doors.
I was thinking I also wanna do some minor things to help reduce road noise while I'm at it. Maybe the back wall and inner door skins.
Is the only option mass loaded vinyl? Or is there something else or some kind of foam I can use that's not as expensive? I doubt I'll be removing seats and pulling carpet but you never know.

 

If I had the time I would do the doors just to make them sound less hollow when closing.

 

+1

 

This was my main incentive to do this

 

There was a recent post, member had shop do much of his truck, $400-500, he claimed it improved stock stereo so much, no other stereo upgrades were going to be needed.

I am sure he is not thumping the car next to him, but believe quality to be much improved.

 

Sound deadening is a must!!!!
Unfortunately it can get costly to do the whole truck. I use a "air suspension" lead plenum foam which is the absolute best for floors, back wall, tranny tunnel, and anywhere you can put it. It is $220 for 12ft² ...ouch! I used 6 sheets for my crewmax. Then sheets of vinyl deadening on the inside and outside of the doors... 2 sheets per door... 8 sheets total. Then a aerosol vinyl spray that gets everywhere you couldn't reach... (B & C pillars, and door trim panels). Also a vinyl rubber and foam above the headliner... 3 sheets. Total is about $2K Big ouch! But, truck is completely silent and beautiful to listen to real music without all the road/truck noise. I'm a bit of audiophile so I can't help but do this to all of my vehicles. It is an absolute necessity.
I only use Cascade audio products...

VB1= pro spray
VB2/HD = doors, in & out
VB3 floors, tunnel, back wall
VB4 above headliner

http://www.cascadeaudio.com/

 

I'm hoping to use some CDL tiles on doors, back wall and behind speakers, not full coverage.
And now I'm looking at doing 1"4" closed cell foam on back wall and as much floor as I can get to fairly easily. I'd like to cover the foam with a layer of mass loaded vinyl but damn that stuff is expensive. Second skin makes a combo closed cell foam / MLV but it about 65 bucks for a 9 sq ft. Would this combo be worth my time and money?

 

Anything you can do will help, especially around the speakers.
Full coverage is only for the OCD finatic.

 

i just started doing this. got the rear doors done over the weekend and will probably do the fronts later today. i used soundskins and one tube allowed me to do half of the inner door skin and all of the outer. just having the rear doors done is noticeable. i have enough soundskins to cover the rear wall and the floor but i won't get to that until i start on the stereo in a week or two.

even if you just do the doors, it's worth it.

 

A lot of people get this stuff wrong. Soundeadening is a 3 part process, the CLD tiles are only for vibrations and resonance and you don’t need 100% coverage with them. The soundeadening actually comes from a layer of MLV on top of the tiles. Check out Soundeadenershowdown.com for detailed explanations. I did the 3 steps on my truck and it absolutely makes a difference. Only part I haven’t done yet is the roof but it’s on the bucket list. I plan to do a all in one product for it tho like Soundskin or roadkill ultimate.

 

Thanks, Good info. Are you using the Soundskins Pro or Soundskins Lite product?

 

no worries. i'm using the pro.

 

What's the 3rd step? I figured CDL tiles in ceryain areas, woth cllsed cell foam over that to act as decoupler. Then MLV over that? I read a little saying you don't want the MLV right over the bare metal or cdl tiles

 

The MLV goes over the CLD tiles then foam is last. MLV is a very dense, heavy vinyl. The roll I got was extremely heavy, I needed a hand truck to move it lol

 

Where did you source your MLV and foam?

 

I may check with a local audio shop. Shipping is brutal on the MLV

 

Got it from Amazon. Posted the wrong pic earlier, here’s the roll

 

TMS Mass Loaded Vinyl 4' X 25' 100 Square Feet 1 Lb MLV Acoustic Barrier

$260 TMS Mass Loaded Vinyl 1Lb - Highest Quality! MLV Soundproofing Acoustic Sound Barrier - 4 x 25 Feet - 1/8" Thick (100 Square Feet) - Made in The USA.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007N3356S?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

 

Ordered 50 sq ft of MLV from a website for under $2/sq ft which was the best deal I found. I have 36 sq ft of Noico 80mil CLD. Just need to get some self adhesive foam and I'm good to go.

 

Only one I know of that is foam only in ensolite from Raamat, are there any others that are peel and stick?

 

Hopefully their CLD is better than the foam. I did the noico ccf over my MLV and during the summer all the adhesive melted and ran down onto my door sills. I had to rip it all off and clean everything up. I’d never buy another noico product because of that

 

From what I've been reading the closed cell foam should go between the door skin or floor pan and the MLV. Not the other way around.

 

sorry I said that wrong lol. The noico ccf went down first, then the MLV over it. The ccf melted and ran down my door and dripped out from under the door panels. Made a huge mess that wasn’t fun to clean

 

I found some peel and stick but it's more expensive. Ease of installation may make it worth it though. I plan to cut pieces to fit, then use 3M spray adhesive to laminate the MLV to the foam. That's a decent weight so I may be worth using spray adhesive and aluminum sealing take to adhere it all. I don't know that I'll trust the self adhesive that comes on the foam. Just a lot more work

 

I found a bunch of foam on eBay.
Should I but 1/8, 3/16 or 1/4", prices go up $3 per yard with each thickness increase but still very reasonable.
The MLV is 1/8". I wanna be sure I'm not adding too much thickness so the carpet will sit nicely over it and the door panels will still fit right.
Thanks

 

So I'm down to a options for closed cell foam.
1/4" high density 2 lb, 4 yards for $90
1/8" super high density 6 lb, 4 yards for $80
1/8" high density 2 lb, 4 yards for $50
3/16" high density 2 lb, 4 yards for $65

I'm not sure if I should go with the increased density at the cost of losing foam width.

Or if I should go with thicker foam that is lighter in weight, seeing that I'm doing MLV on top of the foam.

My plan is to do the back wall, floors and doors, I have 50 sq ft of MLV cuz I can't afford more. It will take a while so it'll be done in stages. Front doors first then I'll do rear wall and work my way forward. Idk of I really need 4 yards of the foam but if rather have extra.
@BOOMHAUER@TECH12VOLTS ? Maybe?