KING 3.0 coilovers

Same, I don't rub either w ADS 3.0" & Camburg 1.5" uniballs.

 

My axles rub but not the tie rods - LOL Just need another alignment to fix it.

 

just give them to me! problem solved!

 

Flipping the tie rods will most likely make it worse, they are deceiving but it will actually put the tie rod closer to the shock.

 

maybe its time to ditch the tundra and go full raptard.

 

MCM UCAs might be as less expensive route?

 

or TCs

 

Go lay under your truck, look how the tie rod bends around your coilover. Now reverse it so the bend actually occupies the space where the coilover exists. Dumb as shit. Some bracket lifts do this(where this non sense comes from), but they also flip them, so they bend away from the coilover.

I can use your quotes to question that. What aftermarket arms come with steering stops... I despise bad advice. Stop.

 

I'm guilty of suggesting the tie rod flip 'cause I read it somewhere. Thanks for the correction I'll be sure not to say that again.

 

That was not meant at anyone in general, just everyone go look. Maybe some people think they can be flipped? LOL!

 

I didn't take it as aimed at me. I just had an overwhelming need to confess.

 

Pro Comp UCAs come with a 3/16" thick plate that is bent and designed to weld on to the lower piece that bolts to the spindle where the steering stop is..

 

Thanks, now he is googling a pic to say that’s it. Oh and wtf, why?

 

They are primarily sold to go with their lift kits, and someone, somewhere, on an internet forum said that if you decrease the turning radius it will not blow out the rack. LOL

 

HAHA, sense of humor. I am going to buy your arms because I recently did a bunch of switchbacks. I had issues with my three point turns(more so people behind me). Adjustable on truck heims a possibility?

 

Okay so don't swap tie rods left to right. What's the solution for the tie rod rub then on these big coilovers? Is it simply a caster issue?

 

Buy MCM and ADS.... LOL

 

That's funny. I just had a conversation with Matt about his arms and heims yesterday. lol He can, of course, do it but it changes the length of the arms and makes alignment really difficult 'cause you have to pull that long bolt to adjust the heims (if I understood correctly). Since you do your own alignment not such a big deal, for me to find a shop with the knowledge and patience......big deal.
On top of that I know he's busy with developing new products from ADS, and a bunch of other stuff that he mentioned. Right now he doesn't have any arms ready but I'm OK with you getting the 2nd pair he makes.

 

Wouldn't it pull away from the coilover?

 

Good advice. I’m serious about those uppers with on truck adjustable heims. No fancy crap, just your arms, but adjustable on truck=priceless. But I hate greasable poly joint anything, might be me... Still want!

 

I don’t know, try it...

Think turn all the way right or left.

 

king, TC and a good alignment shop...try to find a place that actually does trucks jeep offroad toys etc...the jiffy lube place that aligns camerys all day isnt going to give you the best outcome..i went to about 4 different places before i finally found a place to get it goooood

 

lol..hey don't hate on Camrys..that's my daily

 

not hating on camry's i have a mazda 3 as a daily..i just dont bring them to the same alignment shop lol

 

Just gonna throw this out there, but our Icon billet adjustable uppers and 3.0 coilovers plus 2.5 bypasses (all with remote resis) don't rub on anything and we're running 37s on 0 offset rims...

stock lower and stock tie rods

The uppers are on-truck adjustable. We run the lower control arm as far forward as possible to keep the tires off the body mount, and then the alignment is done using the adjustable upper. 3.5* caster is perfect for us.

 

I was wondering about your setup and #s. I think the adjustable heims make a big difference. Did you cut the inners? I could live with 3.5*, 2* not so much. How do you make sure/ adjust the lowers all the way forward?

 

We did not have to cut the inners (shit, actually, @sdhq_offroad @olsin6 did you?). The front suspension is the only thing Lisa and I didn't do ourselves because we don't have a welder or skills to use one for the spindle gussets and cam tabs, so we just had SDHQ do the whole thing in one shot.

To adjust the lowers, just run the caster and camber cams so they are at their maximum adjustment. I forget which way it looks, but from memory, the caster cam will be all the way in (this pushes the wheel forward as much as possible) and the camber cam will be all the way out (this will push the wheel out to the side as much as possible). Then perform the alignment to spec using the heims. If you don't have on-truck adjustability, this will be a real motherfucker. You'll have to get as close as you can with the heims, and then fine tune with the lower cams. Hopefully not pulling the wheel back and in too far.

 

ahhhhh..the joys of modifying your truck

 

Thanks for the explanation Kevin. I don't have heims so it's not gonna help me right now but I'll file it away for future reference.

 

Nothing like a little trial and error.