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DIY changing the oil and now i have a massive leak....???

Discussion in '2nd Gen Tundras (2007-2013)' started by oldschoolhdmike, Jun 4, 2016.

  1. Dec 18, 2017 at 7:18 PM
    #31
    Wynnded

    Wynnded What MPG...

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    They might be there to keep the filter from collapsing.
     
  2. Dec 19, 2017 at 12:46 AM
    #32
    mnm

    mnm Old Guy...

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    The tube supports the cartridge along it's length. Shortening the tube would be risky especially as the filter gets dirty.
     
  3. Dec 25, 2017 at 1:14 PM
    #33
    fixnfly

    fixnfly New Member

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    I just ordered an aluminum cap and noticed the drain plug is not included. Is it possible to just swap the drain plug from the plastic cap?
     
  4. Dec 25, 2017 at 2:10 PM
    #34
    Wynnded

    Wynnded What MPG...

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    Yes.
     
  5. Dec 26, 2017 at 4:06 AM
    #35
    fixnfly

    fixnfly New Member

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    I've never even used that drain plug. Just another thing that could possibly leak.
     
    dtorreskater likes this.
  6. Mar 30, 2018 at 7:18 PM
    #36
    AR91RX

    AR91RX New Member

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    Did you ever figure out what caused the leak? I just changed my oil (10th/11th i've done on the truck) and I have the exact same leak. My leak is coming from the same bolt you described and is a steady dripping leak.
     
  7. Mar 30, 2018 at 7:41 PM
    #37
    nk1794

    nk1794 Always torque to spec

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    I just completed changing oil on my truck today. It's a 2016 1794. It's been serviced by the dealer since new. Today was the first time I did it myself. Ran the engine until it's normal operating temperature and so far no leaks. By any chance did you forget to change the big o-ring on the filter cap?
     
  8. Mar 30, 2018 at 7:50 PM
    #38
    Trooper2

    Trooper2 Premium Lone Star Member / SSEM #13

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    The OP mentioned a cracked filter housing back in #9.
     
    NewImprovedRon likes this.
  9. Mar 30, 2018 at 7:58 PM
    #39
    nk1794

    nk1794 Always torque to spec

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    Wow! I afraid mine was going to crack when I tried take it out today. The dealer put the cap on so tight I had to use a breaker bar to loosen it. The torque spec is only 18ft/lb :annoyed: We cant even trust the dealer to service our trucks. That's sucks.
     
    Trooper2[QUOTED] and Les7311 like this.
  10. Mar 30, 2018 at 8:32 PM
    #40
    saadi996tt

    saadi996tt New Member

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    I also upgraded to the aluminum cap with my first oil change and have done about 5 changes so far. I believe I would do a better job on my truck anyway and get to save some cash in the process for new mods. It’s a win win gentlemen!
     
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  11. Mar 30, 2018 at 9:15 PM
    #41
    Atomic City Tundra

    Atomic City Tundra Cam Tower Leak Addict

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    They don't put the "elite" mechanics of their crew on oil changes. There was a local guy in town who used to work at a Toyota dealership not far from here. He wasn't the sharpest tool in the shed. He eventually got fired from the dealership because he caused too much damage to vehicles (ran 3 of them into various obstacles in the shop trying to park them). You know what his job was at the dealership? Oil changes.

    Just do your own oil changes. If you want to get the aluminum cap - go for it. I have had no issues with the plastic one. Just use some finesse, make sure it is threading straight, and don't overtighten the thing and it will be fine.
     
    nk1794[QUOTED] likes this.
  12. Mar 30, 2018 at 9:28 PM
    #42
    nk1794

    nk1794 Always torque to spec

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    Damn! That's freakin crazy. I expected more from the dealer.:annoyed:
    I followed the torque spec when I do it myself. I'll definitely look for an aluminium cap upgrade. Plastic gets brittle after awhile.
     
  13. Mar 30, 2018 at 9:35 PM
    #43
    Atomic City Tundra

    Atomic City Tundra Cam Tower Leak Addict

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    Jowett Performance is supposedly going to be making some billet Aluminum ones for the 5.7 soon. They have a drain plug incorporated into the part already. I think that they have a shipment out for some V6's already, but the V8's are going to be a while. Haven't checked on that lately, though. Things may have changed.
     
    MatthewPTguy and nk1794[QUOTED] like this.
  14. Mar 30, 2018 at 9:46 PM
    #44
    nk1794

    nk1794 Always torque to spec

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    Sounds like a great product. I'll get one when it's available. Thanks
     
    MatthewPTguy likes this.
  15. Mar 31, 2018 at 3:58 AM
    #45
    Les7311

    Les7311 Look up, what do you see

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  16. Mar 12, 2019 at 3:26 PM
    #46
    FeetDownOutfitters

    FeetDownOutfitters New Member

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    Been reading the posts on the oil filter housing cap swap out replacing the plastic one. I have a 2016 SR5 with a 5.7 , would the 15620-31060 fit or would it be a different part # ? Any help would be appreciated ....thanks
     
  17. Mar 12, 2019 at 3:30 PM
    #47
    Jim LE 1301

    Jim LE 1301 Camaro Lover, SSEM # 11,TTC#179

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    Welcome from NY.

    I believe it would fit but you have to swap out the center strainer because I think the replacement one is smaller.

    Ask @Roman he is our parts guru.
     
    Roman and 15whtrd like this.
  18. Mar 12, 2019 at 4:21 PM
    #48
    FeetDownOutfitters

    FeetDownOutfitters New Member

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    Jim , thanks for the response . I went to the link you gave me and asked Roman which would be the right application. Thanks again
     
  19. Mar 12, 2019 at 4:24 PM
    #49
    Jim LE 1301

    Jim LE 1301 Camaro Lover, SSEM # 11,TTC#179

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    :thumbsup:
     
  20. Mar 12, 2019 at 4:35 PM
    #50
    Finch

    Finch New Member

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    What did he tell you so others (myself) will know. ;)
     
  21. Mar 12, 2019 at 5:12 PM
    #51
    FeetDownOutfitters

    FeetDownOutfitters New Member

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    Waiting for him to reply , I will let you know .
     
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  22. Mar 12, 2019 at 7:50 PM
    #52
    JohnLakeman

    JohnLakeman Burning Internet Daylight

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    That's the correct housing part number (15620-31060).

    Don't forget to recycle the (LONGER) perforated center tube out of your plastic housing. Bend the retaining tabs, push down and turn to remove, insert with the spring in new aluminum housing in same manner, re-bend the tabs to retain. This step is not optional...it is mandatory. Center tube supports your filter element...without the longer tube, the filter will collapse and the element eventually destructs.

    The correct filter is PN 04152-YZZA4. Includes the o-rings you need. I toss that cheap little plastic valve thing and use the Motiv housing drain tool.

    Torque values: Oil drain plug 30 ft-lbs, filter housing 18 ft-lbs, housing drain valve 9 ft-lbs.
     
    NewImprovedRon and 15whtrd like this.
  23. Mar 13, 2019 at 7:02 AM
    #53
    Roman

    Roman Toyota Parts Master Vendor

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    All this right here. :D

    https://parts.toyotaofcoolsprings.com/oem-parts/toyota-filter-cover-1562031060
    https://parts.toyotaofcoolsprings.com/oem-parts/toyota-oil-filter-04152yzza4
     
  24. Mar 13, 2019 at 6:51 PM
    #54
    Bucks04

    Bucks04 New Member

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    just read these posts, and realized when I changed my oil this last time, I didn't put center metal tube in. Got all worried , been a week now all fine , pressure good, bought Fram for backup if I needed it . Pulled apart filter ok, I have metal cover, and only use TRD Toyota filters, no. PTR43-00081, part no. you gave 04152-YZZA4, what brand is this? I found that the TRD filter has its own metal center piece made in it, but I still added the other one , because I saw when I put it in it compressed the spring loaded pc in the cover , not sure what this spring setup does ? Can you explain it's purpose? I noticed the Fram filters don't have any center tubes in them , and if this is why after a while they come apart inside.
     
  25. Mar 13, 2019 at 8:42 PM
    #55
    JohnLakeman

    JohnLakeman Burning Internet Daylight

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    Part Number 04152-YZZA4 is the Toyota filter that came in your Tundra new from the factory.

    It is a cartridge filter and has no center metal tube, nor is a center tube necessary inside the cartridge. There are plastic washers on each end to which the pleated media is cemented. The perforated center tube in the housing actually pilots into the bottom plastic end ring and the filter seals against the base of the perforated tube.

    If the perforated center tube and spring was not installed in the aluminum filter housing, I would remove the filter housing at the very earliest opportunity and install the perforated center tube and spring that was in your original plastic filter housing. If you have discarded the spring and perforated tube with the plastic housing, then you will need to talk to @Roman or your local dealer if you want to expedite the purchase. The fact that the TRD filter has a center metal tube may keep it from collapsing, but without the spring and housing center tube, the cartridge is just free-floating in the aluminum filter housing, and may be allowing oil to bypass on both ends.

    The spring works in two ways and is absolutely necessary. The perforated center tube in the filter housing is supported by the spring's tension and holds pressure against the bottom of the filter cartridge to seal it. The top plastic washer of the filter seals against the engine. The spring also provides tension against the drain valve in the bottom of the housing to keep oil from pouring out on you when you remove the housing drain plug.

    I would toss that Fram in the bin (**** filters), and buy only Toyota filters. The TRD premium filters may be higher quality, but doubtful that they provide any more real protection than Toyota's 04152-YZZA4. You can probably re-install that TRD filter (assuming it's the right one) with the perforated center tube and spring, and it will be fine until your next oil change.
     
    Last edited: Mar 13, 2019
    NewImprovedRon and Roman like this.
  26. Mar 13, 2019 at 11:30 PM
    #56
    TundraMcGov.

    TundraMcGov. Your friend. Your foe. Not yo Ho.

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    All of this ^^^. Everything he said. Follow it exactly and get back to where you need to be. Then all will be at peace.
     
  27. Mar 16, 2019 at 9:34 AM
    #57
    BoTheTundra

    BoTheTundra New Member

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    O ring maybe in the wrong place? I did it my first time and the leak looked EXACTLY like that, thought it was the bolt but the way it drops makes it look like it's from the bolt
     
  28. Mar 16, 2019 at 9:54 AM
    #58
    Ajkkane

    Ajkkane Old fart.

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    Is the O ring on in the wrong spot on the housing? The pictures and descriptions are usually not very good. Possibly you cracked plastic oil filter housing. If you didn’t crack the housing look into replacing with an aluminum housing next oil change. Good luck, hope it works out.
     
  29. Jun 12, 2019 at 5:45 PM
    #59
    handyman

    handyman New Member

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    I agree. If you didn't touch that bolt, it shouldn't be a problem. Are you sure it's the bolt? Perhaps oil is just escaping from the filter, spraying the bolt. Remove the oil filter, check the seals (didn't slip out of place - mistakes happen), and make sure it's seated properly when you put it back on. Heck, despite new, could even be defective. Whatever, probably not a good idea to drive the truck with a leak that bad. The lack of oil pressure couldn't be a good thing.
     
  30. Nov 4, 2019 at 1:08 PM
    #60
    Porkchop Express

    Porkchop Express Its all in the reflexes

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    I had the same problem this weekend. Leaking a small amount at that oil pump housing bolt head.
    I just backed off the aluminium filter cap about a 1/4 turn then re-torqued to 20#.
    All good now. I think the big o-ring needed to reseat . Also, just ordered the Fumoto valve , should make things much easier with the RCI skid plate.
     
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