The Stereo Slow-Build Begins

It was for the amp bypass harness. I saw it redirects to a bluetooth adapter

 

having a knob that would keep spinning (by design) would mean its providing a digital signal, and thats really doubtfull. Its probably not supposed to do that. The knob is probably stripped on the shaft. Try pulling it off and then spin the shaft by itself and see if it keeps spinning

 

That is the one. I was looking for alternatives to ordering from autoharnesshouse

 

Tech 12 volts or *********

 

I was working with ********* on tax and shipping. Since I am in Tx I will have to pay sales tax. Some people are not sold on the quality of their amps. I like the ease of installation and not needed a line converter. May end up going with them but have not finalized my choice.

 

"ease of installation" i'll give that to them. They do make a couple pieces that will help make the installation easier (amp rack, and crossover mount), you are still going to be doing a lot of work to install everything. Ease of installation vs. quality of equipment....that's what its really coming down to. A decision you will have to make.

You SHOULD use a line out converter, but you dont HAVE to. MOST 4 and 5 channel amps have speaker level inputs (and rca's of course). That's all the ********* amps are, a amp with speaker level inputs. The reason why i say you SHOULD get a line out converter, is that many of them have the ability to clean up your sound curve and eliminate the bass roll-off (higher the volume the less bass incrementally). If you think that your stock stereo has a muddy bass sound, it will be just the same but louder if you dont clean up the signal first.
Its your money, but i wouldn't pay extra and be locked into equipment i'm unsure about just to have an easier installation.

 

Convinced me. I was leaning towards the LC7 and Pioneer or Rockford amp. Rockville amps are getting good reviews but seem to have some over heating issues.

 

good call! You figure out a budget?

 

I don't really have one. I am thinking the amp, LC, harness, and amp wire between $400 and $500

 

LC7i - $120
Harness - $40
4ga wiring kit - $50

That leaves 2-300 for an amp. Are you looking into a 4 or 5 channel amp? If you think you'll want to install a sub at some point, might as well get a 5 channel. if not you could always add a mono amp down the line.

 

5 channel. Pioneer GM-9605 is the current front runner. The Rockville is enticing at $155 but you know the old saying. There has to be reasons it is in the price range that it is.

 

bang for the buck, its hard to beat that pioneer. I almost went with it because you can find them for so cheap.
I think the pioneer overrated their output by a smidge, but probably doesn't matter:

 

I got a quick question for you. I spent two days sound deadening, swapping out all the door speaker and a new sub box. I ran the power for the amp and all my wires for the harness. My problem is the FIX86 won't power up. I used the 12v battery to power it. Check it with a meter and it's getting power but no lights. I move it to switched power but still nothing. Shouldn't it light up or am I missing something. I bought it on Ebay used, I may have bought a dud.

 

You need a remote switch wire to power up. Watch this

https://youtu.be/UP7vlDAPgb0

 

i haven't install mine yet but, this is from the manual for wiring up the power connector.

do you have both the battery and switch connections wired up?

 

any idea on fuse size if you wire that to an add-a-fuse for a switched source? shouldn't have to be very big, right?

 

I wired it to the battery and figured it’d turn on when my deck turned on. Says it should and it’s getting power. Remote switch wire goes to amp.

 

I didn't use a remote on (switch) wire, per James at tech12volts recommendations. Are you sure you have the selector switch in the correct position? It should turn on when it starts getting signal from the HU.

 

Not big at all. I think the remote wire i used is 18ga. probably a 10amp is plenty.

 

Yup, it's set correct. The stereo says it's muted. Not sure why. I have the JBL so I'm not sure if the wiring is much different. Before I did the amp I ran my speakers and all worked fine. I got a new Fix coming from Crutchfield and I might need their help if I can't figure it out. I emailed James too. I must be missing something. The mute thing is odd.

 

I'll be interested to hear what james has to say.
I'm not sure if its 100% necessary, but most of the time i see people with jbl systems they have the twk also.

 

Well I found out the JBL amp has its own fuse. Solved the mute thing but still no turn on.

 

I figured it out with the help of JL Audio. When using the signal turn on mode I needed to jump the 12VDC(BATTERY) to the 12VDC(SWITCHED) on the power/ground plug. Works great but I need to tune the system a little better.

 

Good to hear you got it figured out!

How are you planning on tuning it? Just leave the signal flat (what the Fix does when you calibrate it).

 

Just had to mess around with the amp gains and filters. Might try out the equalizer w/ the Tun software when I have time but left it flat for now.

 

I was lazy and didn't disconnect the stock speakers. I'm noticing a volume difference between the dash speakers and door speakers (since the dash ones are powered directly from the head unit). Can i just unplug them?

 

For the JBL I did. Not sure if yours would matter. Easy to get at. Just pop the cover and 2 screws.

 

Interestingly enough, when I removed my dash speakers even though all three are the same size the left/right ones seemed to have a poly or coated paper cone and the center one was paper, other than that they all looked the same. I wonder what the rationale was from the Toyota engineers for that...

 

I pulled the speaker grill's (and broke the tab closes to the a pillar on each side....dammit) and disconnected all 3 dash speakers.

Wow, it sounds so much better without them!!!

 

don't feel bad. i broke the exact same tabs.