New amp fixed crappy JBL system

The Non JBL amp has two connectors. The JBL Amp has 3 connectors. And there will be a JBL badge somewhere on the HU Faceplate.

 

HEYYYY.....MAN

 

Well......now I gotta go out and look !!!

 

I'm sure it not...but I'm going out there in 2 minutes to look

 

Nope....That mean it's low end ?

 

My step son didn't do the install on my truck he just works their. Love him but not letting him touch a $60'000 truck. Haha. The guy who runs the shop did my truck and like I said before he told me he made the harness that he used and its basically a plug and play from one Amp to another Amp. And yes I will find out if he can and or would make more of them and my info is always free . if he can make more which I'm sure he can I will get contact info for him and pass it along as soon as I get it and a timeline on when he can make them Available and iwhat he wants for the harness I'm sure it wouldn't be over $50 because he does have to wire the harness together

 

These OLD ears aren't as picky as they use to be ....spent my audio money on a Bose surround bar and Sub for home theater ... $1400.00...COULD HAVE put that on a Alpine HU and speakers for the Tundy ....but I do like watching the movies with this Bose

 

No Pudge he actually had a 10 pin and used the other end of the wire harness from the cadence Amp to make it. Now the harness is spliced together since its made from 2 different harnesses of the same gage wire and yes it worked the factory amp is a 10 pin adaptor

 

I would give all info for free and I would assume all he would charge for is the harness itself. He had no idea that this many people are having this problem.

 

One amp to the other amp is not bypassing the factory amp. It’s as we thought you are taking the high level output from The factory amp and amplifying it with and aftermarket amp. If you think the sound you get from the factory amp is good but not loud enough this will work for you because that’s all you're doing. Amplifying the single coming from the factory system.

 

Here's a schematic if you want to build an adapter harness with the information in Post 190.

SAME DISCLAIMER!!!! I pulled this data from the Toyota drawings, but I have not verified it with an actual JBL system since I don't have one. Verify all signals before modifying. Use at your own risk!

 

Ahh isn't that what an Amp is supposed to do.

 

Yep. It does not fix the dirty signal though is what I meant.

Glad you are happy with your setup though.

 

Someone pass the popcorn please!

 

Any update on the wiring schematic here @Grimm1 ?

 

Im out of popcorn.

 

@Grimm1 Why dont you see if you can get a second harness from the shop and work out a deal with Pudge so he can do a write up.

 

Would this type of install be similar to adding a LOC, such as audio control LC7i? Except the fact that the LOC helps clean up the sound? I considered adding a LOC then using RCA cables from that to feed an amp and so on.

 

Yes. See the schematic in post 214. Instead of connecting an Amp to the OEM Amp output, you could include a processor or LOC in line between the OEM Amp and your AM Amp.

 

Thanks Lou. I just took at look at your thread again. I remember reading it in the past but figured it wouldn't apply to the JBL system.
I assume it would be best to use a LOC of some kind to clean up the sound rather than just an amp like grimm1 did? It would only cost skightly more

 

There is a difference between connecting the JBL and Non-JBL. My original post has the wire listing for Non-JBL and the post in this thread has the schematic and wire list for the JBL.

Everything else should work the same.

 

Am I missing something here? Does the Cadence amp have 8 input and 8 output channels? The wiring diagram references cutting 16 wires and routing them into, then out of, the Cadence amp. The JBL amp runs all 4 tweeters, the front left and right woofers, the center dash speaker, and the sub (the right and left dash speakers and rear door woofers are powered by the head unit). The picture of the amp looks like it's a 4-channel. Something still doesn't add up.

 

I think you need to bridge some speakers together, which is fine since they are low powered from the factory. I'd assume you'll lose the ability to perfectly adjust back/front And left/right but if you wire it right you can get a decent fade control.

 

Thanks man, you're the best. A wiring genius! And you help make everything make sense to me.

 

The JBL HU does not feed any speakers directly. With the JBL amp, all speakers are connected to the amp. I understand why post 190 may have caused some confusion. I inadvertently left out the R/L dash speakers and the Rear Door speakers from the table. Theses speakers are fed from the JBL amp in parallel with theier associated tweeter feeds. Post 190 has been edited accordingly.

 

That makes more sense, but it still doesn't explain how you take 16 wires (8 pairs/8 speakers) and run them through a 4-channel amp. If the JBL powers the rear tweeters and woofers in parallel, there must be some kind of in-line crossover to separate the frequencies. Perhaps they have the front tweeters and dash speakers running the same frequency response, or they're using in-line crossovers there as well. This still doesn't explain how one could bridge a 4-channel amp or parallel the speakers together in order for the 4-channel to run 8 speakers. The very best outcome would be loss of front/rear fade, but that doesn't explain how you're going to get the proper frequencies out to the front tweeters, center speaker, or subwoofer.

 

So what I posted was the way the Tundra JBL is set up. I believe they must have some passive crossover set-up in the tweeters. They feed the center directly, so it could be filtered in the Amp.

If I were doing this project I would use a 5 channel Amp (remember there is a sub). 1 channel for FL door, 1 channel for FR door, 1 channel for LR door/tweet, 1 channel for RR door/tweet, and a mono channel for the sub. Whatever crossover is in the teeeters should work with aftermarket Amp as well.

For the dash/center speakers, if it were me, I would leave them wired to the factory Amp (i.e. Not cut those wires in the adapter harnesses).

Alternatively, depending on the total dash/front tweet impedance, you could drive the right/left dash/tweet pairs off of their respective front doors. I would probably not use the center speaker with this approach.

 

I just saw this, it will get you a big screen and you can retain you stock HU.

https://youtu.be/uRlKt3hJTfw













LOL

 

HaHa.... Instead of Velcro, use duct tape, preferably black

 

Duck tape is much cheeper.