Shitty Install Day

Plan was to get my Pop & Lock, OEM bed lights and EVO One w/2-way remotes installed and working. Must not have been my day today.

1. Pop & Lock is installed and works perfectly.

2. Bed lights are installed and I got the harness all the way up to under the dash. Unfortunately the instructions from Toyota do not address the 2018 wiring. I will contact the dealer for that.

3. I installed the Fortin Evo but couldn't get it to work, the last part of the programing right before you turn the ignition off didn't complete (single flashing blue LED. The module's firmware is 79.43, I had instructions for 41 and the 44 firmware and tried both wiring versions. So, for now I took it all off again and contacted the seller (Anderson Electronics). I double checked all my connections and they appeared to be good but I will probably get Posi Tabs for the next go-around.

Needless to say I was not a happy camper today (went home had a few beer and feel better now).

 

Sometimes its better to get the bad juju out of the way in the beginning (install) than later on when it will leave you stranded. I used to get worried when everything went together perfectly.

 

That what I was thinking. I didn't want a bunch of wires and connectors under my dash that don't serve a purpose and I damn sure don't want to get stranded. Maybe it works on the next try.

 

I contacted Fortin and hope I hear something back tomorrow or Tuesday. Today I put all my trim pieces back in in and cleaned my truck inside and out, we had almost 70 degrees, the clean truck sure made me feel better.

 

Sounds like my luck!

When things like that happen I call a time out or things will be broken.

 

You are right about that. I quit before I get to pi$$ed and have a cold one.

 

Beer makes EVERYTHING BETTER

 

It took us several tries to get the Fortin working. We still had issues with the truck unlocking itself after starting. It works now, but every so often it trips the alarm...not sure why, but I can live with it.

 

I hope that either the good idea fairy strikes me soon or I get an answer from Fortin.

 

It must be bad luck for the both of us yesterday because I couldn’t get my fortin one evo to work either. Connected everything using positaps the first go around, got the starter to crank but couldn’t get the engine to turn on. I then took all the positaps out and soldered every connection just to make sure I didn’t make any mistakes. Low and behold I got the same result...

Went on the forum for guidance, saw a post on there about this issue and have figured out that it’s a programming issue. When I put the key in the ignition and hold down the lock button for 3 seconds it starts just like it should.

Contacted Anderson and I’m waiting to hear back from them... hope you figure it out bro.

 

At least there are some troubleshooting guides for your truck on the Fortin site.....none for mine. I also bought my Evo from Anderson Electronics; I have to say that he is pretty responsive with emails.

Also, you got a lot farther than I did, mine never did anything.

 

Got replies from Anderson and Fortin and both say to double check my CAN Bus connections. Fortin also said that my module should be updated to 79.44 which takes care of some door lock issue. I guess I'll be buying a Flash-Pack updater next.

 

Got it to work finally, it was a rookie isstaller issue. He’s learned from his mistake...

 

Exactly, If I don't step back this is me,

 

What was the mistake?

 

My mistake was that I had the “SIL Data & Can (high/low) connected together to their respective oem connecters. I Didn’t comprehend that I had to actually cut a wire even throw it shows a scissor and states “cut”. Hope you guys get a laugh out of this.

 

No reason to laugh, the devil is always in the details. The diagram for my 2018 is different, CAN High and CAN Low are connected to 2 separate wires like you on your truck but I don't have to cut the blue wire (per instructions), the only wire I have to cut is the one for the TPMS.

I ordered the Flash Updater so I can put the latest firmware version on and then give it another shot.

 

i could not get the dang thing to program key bypass. been working on it for 3 hours, so frustrated. all the wiring is correct

 

So, per recommendation by Fortin, I bought he flash updater and updated/programed per the instructions which was easy. This afternoon I gave it another shot and reinstalled the EVO remote again, , this time using Posi-Taps and checking every connection with a multi-meter for continuity while all the plugs were out. I again got stock at step 5 and didn't get a flashing blue LED. I tried numerous times, no luck.

Needless to say, I am beyond pi$$ed and I am done with it. I will wait until either Toyota comes out with a dealer installed version or until local shops are able to do it. I spent over $300.00 for the whole set up and if anybody with better wiring skills or more patience is interested you'll find it in the classified section (3rd Gen). I know it is probably my malfunction but at this point I don't even care and I am done dismanteling my interior and messing with wires. EVO truly got the best of me.

Rant over, feel better now.

 

Don’t give up Hans, someone in our community will figure it out shortly.

 

It is already sold. Like I said, I wait until either the Toyota dealer or a local shop can step up to the plate and do it. In the meantime I enjoy my Tundra without a remote starter.

I still can't believe that I couldn't figure it out. I have been working in the automotive field since 1972 when I started a 3-year apprentice ship in Germany. I restored several muscle cars, and rebuilt engines and auto transmissions as part of my job. Oh well, this one got the best of me.

 

Compustar remote start with the idatalink blade module in my 18 for remote start

 

The problem is that I contacted four different shops and they all told me that they do not have or can't get the appropriate software or firmware as of now. They all told me to check back in a month or so; I just wait.