Need some maintenance advice for my 07 DC (170k mi)

So yesterday I was digging through the glove box of my new (used) Tundra and found a bunch of maintenance receipts. I found the previous owner's number on the invoices, called him and left a message inquiring about the full maintenance history of the truck. To my surprise he called me back this morning! Sounded like he was pretty on top of maintenance but there were two concerning things:

1. Toyota dealership he bought it from told him no need to ever change the transmission oil. The vehicle has original tranny fluid at 170k.
2. He only ever did a drain and fill on the differentials and transfer once prior to 100k miles because the truck was having trouble coming out of 4-Lo on a very cold day. Used Amsoil and said never had an issue since then...

He said he towed a big camper trailer once in a while, but not often and that almost all the miles on the truck are 2wd highway miles.

Other issues I've noticed:

1. Can feel engine through steering wheel, especially at 1300 rpm going up a hill. More when turning left for some reason... to me it feels like worn engine mounts. Seems like it phases in and out though... carrier bearing starting to go?
2. Noticeable pulsation when braking, especially 20-25mph- not as noticeable at highway speeds.
3. Truck double or triple bounces over expansion joints and bumps. It's not the big slow bounce you see on rear suspensions that are toast, it just has a quick and small "extra" bounce that's annoying after a bump.
4. Truck feels like it needs a wheel balance. Slight highway speed pulsation. Not too noticeable, but when giving the steering slight input it becomes more apparent
5. Seems like it needs alignment. Pulls slightly to left.

I do all of my own fluid changes; would it be okay to wait until it gets warmer (April or May) to do the transmission, transfer, and diffs? The transmission, transfer, and diffs all perform quite admirably right now, and changing oils when its freezing out sucks... Second question: Tires only have 30% of tread left. Is it worth balancing them or should I just deal with it and balance my replacements in a year or so? Last question: In the "other issues" category, should I be most concerned about 1, 2, or 3? Will address all of them eventually, just figuring out where to start.

Any advice would be thoroughly appreciated!

 

1) could be you need to grease the u-jounts. If you have a lift, consider carrier bearing drop kit
2) warped rotors - have them turned or replace with PowerStops
3) Known issue - Might improve it with Bilstein 5100s
4) & 5) wheel balance/rotate/check alignment

 

No lift - everything is stock except front coilovers were replaced with aftermarket because one of the original springs was broken. As far as the brakes go, is there any problem with letting the current pads wear down even if the rotors are warped? Would like to start with fluid changes and wheel balance/rotation/alignment and do brakes later if possible. And for #3, would you replace shocks before springs in the rear, or do both at the same time?

 

My lawyer says I cannot recommend any deferment of required brake maintenance, particularly on the internet. That said, mine have been ever so slightly throbbing for about 5k miles now, and that's all I'll say on the matter

I would go ahead and replace the shocks. I don't think there is any need to tie it to spring replacement other than perhaps convenience. You'll get instant gratification.

 

Ok good to know.

Any specific advice about whether I can let the diffs and transfer go for 4 or 5k until the ice on my driveway melts? The fluids were changed approx 80k ago with Amsoil products. I will replace at 30k internal from here on out but should I absolutely switch the fluids right away or can it ride for a couple months?

 

I don't think 4-5k is going to make much difference one way or the other, but I wouldn't put it off for too much longer. One thing you should do occasionally is to employ 4WD for a few miles on a straight stretch of wet road, or better yet, on a dirt road. This will keep your front diff components lubricated.

 

Ok thanks for the info.

 

Welcome from Obx, everything Bob said. Haha, previous owner is right. I've had 4 different Toyota techs tell me same thing, you don't need to change it, it's a sealed unit. This sounds good, but not practical. This is especially the case with your Tundra being that he towed a lot. I have an 08 with 95k, will at least get a drain and fill, if not a full flush. Plenty of info on here, just use search box. What kind if coilovers did previous owner install?

 

If I remember correctly my 07 manual states to have tranny checked at 100K. I'm near 85K now and considering having tranny fluid checked by my dealer this spring. At 10 years old I think it would be the prudent thing to do.



My rotors were warped when I got my Tundra. I replaced everything as soon as I could. Didn't care to much about the rotor vibs .

 

Well this is just my opinion, and I might have a few that would agree. If you plan on upgrading your rear shocks with 5100's you should upgrade your front with 5100's. Fronts are adjustable to your liking. Bilsteins 5100's front and back around $400. Good luck .

 

Took it to shop today because it’s too damn snowy to do my own fluid changes. They said tranny fluid looked slightly worn but really good. No metal shavings. Rear diff fluid was a little dirty but nothing indicating something is coming apart. Front diff and transfer fluid looked brand new.

Only issue was couldn’t get transmission drain pan off because bolts were so rusty. They broke the head off one. They told me that as long as doesn’t leak at all where the head got broken off, I’m probably best off just leaving the pan on indefinitely because they’d have to drill nearly every single bolt out to get it off.

So there you have it. Looks like these tranny’s are built like tanks.