The Stereo Slow-Build Begins

Fronts are 6x9. Rears are 5.25 but a 6.25 will fit.

 

Thanks,
Anyone know what adapter will work for JL C2-650's (6.5")

 

The tech12volt adapters will work.

 

or these?

Custom Install Parts 6.5" Plastic Black Speaker Adapter Compatible with Toyota - Select Models -

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B..._title_dp_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A2054H79CM88G8

 

Awesome build so far. Good info! I’m buckled in for this ride

 

Thanks!
I ended up ordering front and rear set of speaker adapters from tech12volts, figured that i'd ditch the plastic Scorche ones.

 

Seeing that you are keeping the stock head unit is it worth replacing the door speakers with the stock amp?

My build will be a much, much slower build.

 

I really thought mine would be much much slower, but once i found a good deal on the speakers, it snowballed out of control.

I'm not really sure about replacing the stock speakers with keeping everything else factory. When researching the FiX86, i read that the stock head unit sound curve is designed to give the best sound with the crap-tastic paper cone speakers. The FiX levels that out.
My guess is that there wont be much of a difference with replacing the stock speakers only, the factory amp is only output 18 watts so you really should get an amp and a sound processor to push them.

@CJ21 installed a 4-ch amp and kept the stock speakers (for now), maybe he can chime in on how that sounds.

 

Thats what I thought as well. It looks like the audio build be much slower. Need to recoup from the King’s/Method’s/KO2’s

I’m keeping an eye on your build. Can’t wait to see the outcome. The JL stealth box is always promising.

 

Ups delivered a box yesterday, should have in it:
hd900/5
FiX86 w/ DRC-200
C5-650
JL 4ga amp power kit
Speaker Adapters
factory amp wiring harness
and an amp rack.
(pictures will come when i get home from work travel)

I think i'm set. I ordered 1.5' rca's from Amazon, and still need some butt connectors. Has anyone used these before:

PREMIUM Solder Seal Heat Shrink Butt Connectors 100 pcs Wire Connector Kit Electrical Waterproof Marine Automotive Solder Sleeve

https://www.amazon.com/MONOLIT-Elec...pID=51-r87PqF6L&preST=_SX342_QL70_&dpSrc=srch

I'm not a fan of the crimp connectors, especially when you have a ton of them in close proximity, they end up looking like crap, and i dont trust the connection from getting pulled if something catches on them. I thought about soldering all of them, but my solder skills aren't the best and would take forever.

Is there a good spot under the passenger seat for a ground?

 

Goodies came

 

Never used them, I solder all my connections and weather pack them with dielectric grease then heatshrink over the top to make them weather proof. I did this on my boat 3 years ago and its stored in the elements with 0 issues with wiring.

As far as ground under the passengers seat you could use one of the factory amp mounting bolts.

 

Well, had a bit of a speedbump. The wiring harness to hook into the factory amp didn't make it in the box.....install is going to have to wait another week :-(

I did take a look to see what the difference is between the c5-650's (left) and c2-650's (right).

Woofer cone seems a little more robust but not by much, the dust cap is softer on the c5.
the basket looks a helluva lot nicer on the c5 than the c2.
The crossover on the c5 has adjustments for midbass along with tweeter, where the c2 only has tweeter.
The c5's tweeter is heavier even when the c2's have a cup glued on. The c5 tweeter looks a little smaller, but that could be because of the c2's cup making it look bigger.

I did a test fit on the sail panel and its going to be tricky to get a good install on it since they are so small. I tried a couple of the adapters that came with the c5's and none of of them fit as snugly as the c2's. I'll probably put a bead of hot glue around the tweeter.

 

I originally wasn't going to do any sound deadening, but decided to grab 10sqft of noico deadening material off Amazon for $22 and a roller. I figured i'd put a panel behind each speaker (on the outer skin). I'm not sure what i'll do with the other 6 panels. Maybe cut them in strips and put around the speaker adapters? thoughts?

 

subscribed

 

So the install finally happened. I had started the day off with getting everything ready and made a plan for the install. I thought i would start with getting the factory amp out and getting the 5-channel and FiX86 wired up.
I had an amp rack made to hold the amp and fix


After i pulled out the seats, i ran the power wire from the battery to the fuse holder, along the back of the firewall, down the tire well, and up through a grommet where i brought in the wires for the amp power steps.




After figuring out the convoluted wiring for the FiX86 (big thanks to James at tech12volts), i got all the plugs for the fix, and the amp wired up. The JL's have a molex type connector that you hook all the wires into and then they plug into their respective ports. Made it easier to make sure each of the wires went into the correct location. I was really hoping for a cleaner wiring job, but without extending most of the wires it was the best i could do (i thought i took a picture after i screwed everything down, but i guess not). I ran the calibration for the fix, and i should have unplugged the tweeters in the dash, because even though i didn't have the amp powered on for the FiX calibration i forgot that the tweeters were powered by the head unit because i heard the test tone at 3/4 volume for 30 seconds.


Then i pulled the back seats for the sub box. I'm surpised how small that box is compared to some of the others i've seen. Sombitch is heavy. I got the box placed in the back seats and lined up the brackets to hold them down


It was time to start in on the doors. I originally didn't want to do any sound deadening. I had never used it before, and didn't see the point. After reading about other people using it, i figured i'd buy a small pack off Amazon and at least put it on the inner door skin. It was a bit of a pain to get it in there.


I used tech12volts speaker adapters to get the C5's installed and a fresh pair of sail panels from Roman to hold the tweeters.

Did the same thing to the other 3 doors but put c2's in the rears.

Final thoughts:
Install took an entire day. Started at 9am and went till about 6pm. I didn't have the strength to install the remote knob for the FiX so i still need to do that, and i need to figure out what settings i should use on the amp (not sure what i should set the high pass filter to on the amp). On the stock settings for the amp it sounds a little bass heavy. I played with the gain for the subs and holy shit they thump like a mofo. I need to figure out how to level it out. I also didn't unplug the factory tweeters in the dash to see how the sound with the jl's in the sail panels. I'll update after i get the settings just right.

I did notice a little hiss at lower volumes. JL customer service told me this may happen (before i ordered the FiX). I'm hoping that after i install the remote knob for the FiX i can turn it down an bit and get rid of the hiss. Anyone with the FiX86 experience this?

 

I have a question, I am looking at getting a 2018 Tundra, currently have a 2016 Tacoma, I did a speaker upgrade in the Taco, 6x9 fronts, and the Subaru Tweeters ( as shown ), question is- will the tweeters work in the Tundra? They sound so good in the Taco, I would hate to loose them. The 6x9's in the front doors I will take out & put in the Tundra... just hoping these would work, anyone have an idea ?? Thanks .

 

If you are talking about replacing the tweeters in the dash, im not sure because i didn't pull the panels yet.

If they are going into the factory sail panels, then they should fit but you'd have to loose the mounting ears. The factory sail panels have a cup that holds the tweeter.

 

Thank you for the quick response ! I guess I will pull them, before I trade... if they don't fit. I will jut sell them...

 

I have a hiss coming from the Fix86 in my build as well, installing the remote helped almost eliminate the hiss when there is no volume. I turned the master volume knob down to 75-80%. I am going to run fresh power and ground wires from my auxiliary fuse box to the fix later this week to see if that helps.

 

Good to hear its not just me. I'll try pluging in the drc-200 and turn it down a bit and stash it under the seat for now.

 

I did exactly as you said and no hiss what so ever. I'd be worried if I didn't have the knob.

 

Whatever you grounded your wire to is it metal on metal or is there any paint obstructing the ground.. just maybe need a better Ground. Just a Thought.

 

Grounded it to one of the bolts for the factory amp bracket with the paint sanded off. Turning down the knob on the drc-200 fixed the hissing issue.
I played around with the settings on the amp and went with a 80hz 12db filter for the front and rear and a 60hz for the sub. Sound great.

 

Replaced the factory amp with a pioneer 2,000 watt digital amp, pioneer speaker's in all four doors of a 2017 DC. Two shallow 10" subs in storage box ( started behind the back seat). Sounds amazing and loud. Not earth shaking but will rattle rearview mirror if cranked. Kept the factory HU for now.

MB Quart DS1-254 10" Shallow Mount Car/Truck Subwoofer w/Poly Cone+2" Voice Coil. 113$ for pair. Ebay
Pioneer GM-D9605-5-Channel Class D Amplifier with Wired Bass Boost Remote. 200$ new Ebay
Pioneer TS-A1686R 700W 6.5" 4-Way TS-A-Series Coaxial Car Stereo Speakers 60$ 1 set Ebay
Kilmat 50 mil 50 sqft car sound dampener 62$ for box. Ebay
Scosche SAT6 5.25"/6.5" Speaker Adapters For 2000-Up Toyota Vehicles 8$ 1 set Ebay
Scosche SAT69 2003 -Up Toyota Speaker Adapter Plate Adapters 6.5"- 6 3/4" 1 Pair 12$ 1 set Ebay
********* wiring harness kit ( plug and play) 60$ ( I think) *********
Second set of Pioneer speakers ( can't remember model number, about same as other set) 60$ 1 set. Ebay
Misc wiring, shrink tube, wire loom, fuze block and amp install kit, Sub box materials 75$. Where I could find it

Took 1/2 day to Install door speakers and matting for all four doors.
Next weekend took 1/2 dayish to install amp, subs and Kilmat the entire back wall and 1/2 the floor under the back seat.
Hardly any road noise. System might not be the greatest and I'm sure it could be tweaked to be better, but so much better than stock.

Under 700$

 

Hey,

I just bought one of the Irwin self adjusting strippers, how do they work and do you like them!

Thanks Bud!

 

Irwins auto strippers are great! I got them from Amazon for cheap. When i was stripping wire, i noticed that i needed to adjust the clamping force by turning the screw on the side a couple times. Took a bit to get it just right for the wire i was using.

 

yeah, I was turning that screw wondering the same thing, Ive always used the basic strippers so this is a first for e, thanks

Here is where I got mine too