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DIY: LED Bed Lights w/ Timer

Discussion in 'Audio & Video' started by XNeewbie, Nov 7, 2017.

  1. Nov 7, 2017 at 6:37 AM
    #1
    XNeewbie

    XNeewbie [OP] Eat-Sleep-Yota

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    20% Tints - Bull Rings - Rubber Mats - Toyota Center Console Cover - Clazzio Seat Covers - Pop & Lock - Bed LEDs w/ Timer - EvoOne Remote Start - FRAC Harness w/ Front Camera - Handle Bar - TRD Shift Knob - TRD Sway Bar - AJT Fob Cases & Battery Tie Down - Breather Mod w/ Filter - SDHQ Speed Sensor Covers - BORA 1-1/2" Spacers - TRD License Plate Frame - LEDs all Around - Door Sills - Front Seat Bracket Bolt Covers
    DIY Bed LED Lights w/ Timer

    This is my 1st DIY post ever. Please keep negative comments to yourselves. All other comments, compliments, and likes are welcome =)

    Just installed these lights in my 2017 Tundra. I am by no means a professional. Just a DIY guy that’s pretty particular about doing everything very clean looking. I saw a few posts where a few people have installed these lights but with no good pics or instructions so here it is…

    Parts needed:

    1 x 60” LED Light Strip $25.99 (Double Cab ONLY. Need Shorter Strip For Crew Max)

    1 x Mini Timer(Optional if you want a timer but not required) $21.99

    1 x Configuration Board for Mini Timer (Optional if you want to make it easier for programming but not required) $11.99

    1 x Roll of minimum 25’ 14 or 16 gauge Red Wire for power. Link for both red and black

    1 x Roll of minimum 25’ 14 or 16 gauge Black Wire for ground and extensions (Probably be using no more than 6’ total)

    15 x Butt connectors/splicers or Posi-Lock connectors/splicers & 2 ring connectors/splicers. I got this whole kit for $20.89 a while back, but this kit is a lot better in my opinion

    1 x Fuse holder w/ 5 amp fuse (Optional if you want easy disconnection at the battery) LED kit switch (Not waterproof) already comes with a fuse holder integrated. Purchase another switch before continuing if this is an issue

    1 x 20’ 1/4” Wire Loom (Optional if you want to protect your wires) Highly recommended
    A lot of zip ties
    IMG_5813.jpg

    Feed 21’ - 22’ of your red wire through your 20’ wire loom. I went ahead and taped the whole loom after feeding the wire (optional). Don’t worry you will cut off the excess later.
    IMG_5814.jpg

    Connect end of power wire to fuse holder with a butt connector/splicer (Heat shrink optional) and a ring connector/splicer to end of fuse holder. On my ring connector, the hole was not big enough to go through the positive terminal stud, so I wallowed it out with a 1/4” drill bit.
    IMG_5818.jpg

    I laid the whole wire down and fed the fuse end cable above the frame by the front driver side and fed it up and around the fuse box and into the battery. Of course all this is optional. Run the wire whichever way you see fit.
    IMG_5819.jpg
    IMG_5820.jpg

    I fed the wire from under here and routed it like this. I wedged the loom in between the fuse box and went between the fuse box and battery. Disconnect your 5 amp fuse 1st, lift the positive terminal cover, using a 10mm socket and ratchet disconnect the positive nut, connect your wire, and tightened nut. Leave the 5 amp fuse disconnected until the end.
    IMG_5823.jpg
    IMG_5822.jpg

    Route the rest of the wire through the driver side frame. I zip tied in these spots.
    IMG_5828.jpg

    Then routed the wire towards the inside of the frame.
    IMG_5832.jpg

    More zip ties here and against the frame. Wherever you can find holes or good attaching points.
    IMG_5833.jpg

    I stopped at the trailer hookup wire above the left side of the spare tire.
    IMG_5836.jpg

    Now get some alcohol and paper towel or rag and wipe/clean the bottom of the deck rail.
    IMG_5838.jpg
    IMG_5839.jpg IMG_5840.jpg

    Prepare the LED lights by removing the tape film and press firmly against the bottom of the rail.
    IMG_5841.jpg

    Now feed the cable with the connector through this hole. Same thing for the driver side. Look inside the hole while feeding it down. It is not a simple drop down hole.
    IMG_5842.jpg

    This is where it'll be underneath.
    IMG_5843.jpg

    Route it along with the tail light wire and zip tie. It'll only reach near the trailer hookup wire.
    IMG_5844.jpg
    IMG_5846.jpg

    Now prep the switch wire (included with the LED kit) by cutting and prepping both + and - cables.
    IMG_5847.jpg IMG_5849.jpg

    Cut approximately 3’ of the red and black wire from your wire rolls and splice it to the red and black wire of the switch with 2 butt connectors/splicers. I went ahead and shrink wrapped the connectors and wires afterwards.
    IMG_5850.jpg

    Then feed the switch down the left hole alongside the LED wire. I fed it through the left (Driver) side, but you can feed it through the right (Passenger) side. You will just have to reroute the power wire back to the passenger side if done through the passenger side.
    IMG_5852.jpg

    Get some double sided tape (Not included. I just had some laying around) and tape it to the back of the switch and against the bed.
    IMG_5855.jpg
    IMG_5856.jpg

    After feeding the switch wire down, use 2 butt connectors/splicers and splice it back to the other half of the switch wire. I shrink wrapped if afterwards too (Optional).
    IMG_5853.jpg IMG_5854.jpg

    Route this whole wire and the LED wire with the connector along side the left (Driver) side tail light wire, zip tie it together, and drop it next to the red wire that you ran from the battery.
    IMG_5857.jpg

    After dropping the wire down, plug in both LED male connectors into the female connectors.
    IMG_5858.jpg

    Cut the excess off from the red wire that you ran from the battery to whatever length you need and connect it into the red fused wire from the switch with a butt connector. You will need a minimum of 1’ of slack for easier programming later.
    IMG_5861.jpg

    I know this sounds crazy, but cut the LED supplied wire that connects to both LED lights in half and prep both + and -
    IMG_5860.jpg

    Prep the Mini Timer and connect the red wire to the red wire and yellow wire to red wire with 2 butt connectors. Correlating to the picture above.
    IMG_5864.jpg

    Twist both black wires together, crimp it into one side of a butt connector and crimp the other end to the black wire from the Mini Timer. Shrink wrap (Optional)
    IMG_5865.jpg

    Back to the switch wire, crimp a ring connector on the yellow wire. This will be your ground. Find a good ground and attach/connect.
    IMG_5867.jpg

    Prep your Configuration Board by stripping the wire ends. I extended the ground for temporary use only. If you did not buy a Configuration Board, follow this link to setup the timer.
    IMG_5868.jpg

    Ground the black cable to a good temporary ground and temporarily twist green to green and white to white. Blue wire on timer is not used.
    IMG_5869.jpg

    Or you could crimp these quick plug in tabs also.
    IMG_5871.jpg

    Make sure that all your grounds are attached/connected. Now connect your 5 amp fuse back to your fuse holder by the battery and you should have power.

    When you 1st hit your switch to turn the LED lights on it should turn on for a second and shut off. This is perfectly normal. It means that you wired everything correctly so far. Go ahead and hit the switch again to turn off.

    Follow this link for programming instructions. I have mine programmed to shut off in 10 minutes. It took me a little while to figure it out. Don’t panic.

    Your battery on/off from the youtube video is going to be your push button switch.

    After it is all programed, make sure you test it.

    If everything is still good at this point, remove your Configuration Board by untwisting the green and white wires and removing your ground.

    Wire loom all your lose wires. I tucked in both LED connectors and most of the remaining wire inside this loom. I left the green and white wire as is for easier programming in the future. The Mini Timer end is on the bottom of this loom.
    IMG_5872.jpg

    I zip tied all my finished wires above the trailer hookup wire. Easy access to the fuse.
    IMG_5873.jpg

    This is where I put my ground and zip tied my Mini Timer and remainder of the wiring.
    IMG_5874.jpg

    Hope this helped. It’s pretty long but very detailed. Let there be light!!! Enjoy =)
    IMG_5870.jpg

    If the timer kicks in and shuts off your lights, you’ll have to press the switch to turn off and press it again to turn back on. If you remember to turn it off manually then ignore this.
     
    Last edited: Aug 16, 2018
  2. Nov 7, 2017 at 6:55 AM
    #2
    Bob

    Bob Member Staff Member

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    Great writeup!
     
  3. Nov 7, 2017 at 7:06 AM
    #3
    Baja Mike

    Baja Mike Baja Aficionado

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    Exactly how I ran my lights through the bed. Awesome write up.
     
  4. Nov 7, 2017 at 7:09 AM
    #4
    XNeewbie

    XNeewbie [OP] Eat-Sleep-Yota

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    20% Tints - Bull Rings - Rubber Mats - Toyota Center Console Cover - Clazzio Seat Covers - Pop & Lock - Bed LEDs w/ Timer - EvoOne Remote Start - FRAC Harness w/ Front Camera - Handle Bar - TRD Shift Knob - TRD Sway Bar - AJT Fob Cases & Battery Tie Down - Breather Mod w/ Filter - SDHQ Speed Sensor Covers - BORA 1-1/2" Spacers - TRD License Plate Frame - LEDs all Around - Door Sills - Front Seat Bracket Bolt Covers
    Thank you sir. I wish I've seen a post like this before, but I just kinda winged it. Honestly I'm glad I didn't really run into any problems knock on wood.
     
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  5. Nov 7, 2017 at 7:14 AM
    #5
    Baja Mike

    Baja Mike Baja Aficionado

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    I’ve had mine on for over a year and haven’t had a problem. You did a much better job than I did with the wiring. Only thing I did different was add rubber grommets in the bed holes and squirt some black silicone around the wires to keep them from moving in the holes.
     
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  6. Nov 7, 2017 at 7:17 AM
    #6
    XNeewbie

    XNeewbie [OP] Eat-Sleep-Yota

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    20% Tints - Bull Rings - Rubber Mats - Toyota Center Console Cover - Clazzio Seat Covers - Pop & Lock - Bed LEDs w/ Timer - EvoOne Remote Start - FRAC Harness w/ Front Camera - Handle Bar - TRD Shift Knob - TRD Sway Bar - AJT Fob Cases & Battery Tie Down - Breather Mod w/ Filter - SDHQ Speed Sensor Covers - BORA 1-1/2" Spacers - TRD License Plate Frame - LEDs all Around - Door Sills - Front Seat Bracket Bolt Covers
    That's a pretty good idea. I might end up doing that too. Thanks
     
  7. Nov 7, 2017 at 7:27 AM
    #7
    Zeb8806

    Zeb8806 New Member

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    Nice write up! I’m planning to do this here in the near future. Thanks for the great outline
     
  8. Nov 7, 2017 at 7:52 AM
    #8
    040Tundra

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    A little of this and a little of that.
    @XNeewbie , great write up. I️ have been considering this for too long. Now my decision is much easier.

    What was the total cost of the supplies just how you posted this?
     
  9. Nov 7, 2017 at 7:55 AM
    #9
    TXRailRoadBandit73

    TXRailRoadBandit73 YOTAS,RAILROADER,RÖKnRÖLLN',BEER,MAX/GEMMA

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    Great write up n job!!!
     
  10. Nov 7, 2017 at 8:05 AM
    #10
    AlexWV

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    Nice work! Now that you've got that practice run under your belt, how about you come do mine? :help:
     
  11. Nov 7, 2017 at 8:17 AM
    #11
    mlucas555

    mlucas555 New Member

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    Great job! One more mod that I will be doing at some point.
     
  12. Nov 7, 2017 at 10:31 AM
    #12
    speckmon

    speckmon Must. Have. Pow.

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    flippin awesome
     
  13. Nov 7, 2017 at 12:00 PM
    #13
    csuviper

    csuviper Moderator Staff Member

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    Good work!
     
  14. Nov 7, 2017 at 12:32 PM
    #14
    scpete24

    scpete24 Duuuuuuude

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    Nice write up. Could have saved yourself some time/effort by going with one of @mattgecko bed kits then adding in the timer. Pretty much sells a kit that does exactly what you did (minus the timer - nice touch) but also along the front rail.

    IMG_0047[1].jpg
     
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  15. Nov 8, 2017 at 11:39 AM
    #15
    XNeewbie

    XNeewbie [OP] Eat-Sleep-Yota

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    Awesome. Glad to be able to help. You're probably looking about $100-$110 total, but you'll have a bunch of wires, connectors, looms, etc. left over for future projects. A good few things are optional too if you're trying to be on a budget.
     
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  16. Nov 8, 2017 at 11:43 AM
    #16
    XNeewbie

    XNeewbie [OP] Eat-Sleep-Yota

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    Thank you. Maybe just a little practice. I would be more than happy to help you out if you ever come this way lol.
     
  17. Nov 8, 2017 at 11:54 AM
    #17
    AlexWV

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    Where is that?
     
  18. Nov 8, 2017 at 11:57 AM
    #18
    XNeewbie

    XNeewbie [OP] Eat-Sleep-Yota

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    20% Tints - Bull Rings - Rubber Mats - Toyota Center Console Cover - Clazzio Seat Covers - Pop & Lock - Bed LEDs w/ Timer - EvoOne Remote Start - FRAC Harness w/ Front Camera - Handle Bar - TRD Shift Knob - TRD Sway Bar - AJT Fob Cases & Battery Tie Down - Breather Mod w/ Filter - SDHQ Speed Sensor Covers - BORA 1-1/2" Spacers - TRD License Plate Frame - LEDs all Around - Door Sills - Front Seat Bracket Bolt Covers
    I just looked it up. I guess that's another option at this point lol. The front rail LED strip is definitely a plus. Oh well, there's nothing better than doing it yourself. I had fun doing it.
     
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  19. Nov 8, 2017 at 11:57 AM
    #19
    XNeewbie

    XNeewbie [OP] Eat-Sleep-Yota

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    Greenville, SC
     
  20. Nov 8, 2017 at 12:20 PM
    #20
    scpete24

    scpete24 Duuuuuuude

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    For sure, I was just throwing it out there. Maybe someone reading the thread wants to do something similar and that could help them out. You did a great job!
     
  21. Nov 8, 2017 at 12:53 PM
    #21
    040Tundra

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    A little of this and a little of that.

    Thank you!:thumbsup:
     
  22. Nov 8, 2017 at 1:00 PM
    #22
    XNeewbie

    XNeewbie [OP] Eat-Sleep-Yota

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    20% Tints - Bull Rings - Rubber Mats - Toyota Center Console Cover - Clazzio Seat Covers - Pop & Lock - Bed LEDs w/ Timer - EvoOne Remote Start - FRAC Harness w/ Front Camera - Handle Bar - TRD Shift Knob - TRD Sway Bar - AJT Fob Cases & Battery Tie Down - Breather Mod w/ Filter - SDHQ Speed Sensor Covers - BORA 1-1/2" Spacers - TRD License Plate Frame - LEDs all Around - Door Sills - Front Seat Bracket Bolt Covers
    Absolutely. Thanks for the input
     
  23. Nov 11, 2017 at 10:04 PM
    #23
    PNW_Husky

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    off topic XNeewbie, but what running boards do you have? Very nice write up on the bed lights!
     
  24. Nov 11, 2017 at 10:25 PM
    #24
    XNeewbie

    XNeewbie [OP] Eat-Sleep-Yota

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  25. Jul 23, 2018 at 9:35 AM
    #25
    aguilara19

    aguilara19 New Member

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    powered running boards , l.e.d. tail lights,
    great video, i added powered running boards and used these same l.e.d. lights as courtesy lights instead of what was provided. from manufacture.

    IMG_8152.jpg
    IMG_8151.jpg
    IMG_8150.jpg
     
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  26. Jul 23, 2018 at 10:33 PM
    #26
    XNeewbie

    XNeewbie [OP] Eat-Sleep-Yota

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    20% Tints - Bull Rings - Rubber Mats - Toyota Center Console Cover - Clazzio Seat Covers - Pop & Lock - Bed LEDs w/ Timer - EvoOne Remote Start - FRAC Harness w/ Front Camera - Handle Bar - TRD Shift Knob - TRD Sway Bar - AJT Fob Cases & Battery Tie Down - Breather Mod w/ Filter - SDHQ Speed Sensor Covers - BORA 1-1/2" Spacers - TRD License Plate Frame - LEDs all Around - Door Sills - Front Seat Bracket Bolt Covers
    Awesome deal! Looks BA! Glad to know it works great on running boards also. I might get another set and do the same on mine :bananadance:
     
  27. Sep 25, 2020 at 4:30 AM
    #27
    kilarabit

    kilarabit New Member

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    AMAZING write up and easy to install.
    I even added a 10amp push button to jazz it up a bit.

    did you have any residual glow on the LED strips?

    I wired this exactly like you did and my lights have a soft glow when powered off and the car is off. Only difference is I put the fuse at the battery and took the fuse off of the wire that came with the LED strips.(did not put the timer on)

    Interested to hear if this is a known issue? Or is there a reason that you know why it would be doing this?
     
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  28. Sep 25, 2020 at 9:08 AM
    #28
    XNeewbie

    XNeewbie [OP] Eat-Sleep-Yota

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    First Name:
    Charlie
    SC
    Vehicle:
    2017 Gray Tundra CM SR5 TRD 4x4
    20% Tints - Bull Rings - Rubber Mats - Toyota Center Console Cover - Clazzio Seat Covers - Pop & Lock - Bed LEDs w/ Timer - EvoOne Remote Start - FRAC Harness w/ Front Camera - Handle Bar - TRD Shift Knob - TRD Sway Bar - AJT Fob Cases & Battery Tie Down - Breather Mod w/ Filter - SDHQ Speed Sensor Covers - BORA 1-1/2" Spacers - TRD License Plate Frame - LEDs all Around - Door Sills - Front Seat Bracket Bolt Covers
    It’s been a few years since I’ve installed it and I haven’t had any issues or residual glow. I don’t believe that adding and removing the fuse would cause that. Double check your ground. You can use a volt/ohm meter to check this. Then try removing your fuse. If everything shuts off correctly sounds like there’s an issue with you switch for your lights. I helped a buddy install his and ended up having issues with the switch. You could try bypassing the switch just for testing purposes.
     
  29. Sep 25, 2020 at 9:23 AM
    #29
    Rc23

    Rc23 New Member

    Joined:
    Jan 5, 2020
    Member:
    #40800
    Messages:
    360
    First Name:
    Ross
    Chesapeake
    Vehicle:
    '16 Super White CrewMax
    Glad someone replied to this as I was making a parts list to do something similar. Awesome write-up and pictures.
    *I noticed take-offs in the first picture and got excited
     
    XNeewbie[OP] likes this.
  30. Nov 8, 2020 at 6:14 AM
    #30
    MNTX TRDPro

    MNTX TRDPro New Member

    Joined:
    May 4, 2020
    Member:
    #45902
    Messages:
    15
    Gender:
    Male
    Vehicle:
    '17 White TRP Pro
    Rolling Tonneau
    I purchased the Matt Gecko lighting kit mostly b/c of the Gofast camper I have.
    I stumbled across this just before I was going to run my wires.
    Thanks for the post, as it reassured me in the process! Well done!
     
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