1st Gen Tundra (2006 Specifically) Fixing PO(S) OEM Radio Harness Hackjob

Each thread has given me pieces to put together, but it’s still not added up so I figured I’d start my own thread per @shifty`

Here goes…

-I have a 2006 tundra access cab that is supposed to have the DC AM/FM/Cass/CD W/6 Speakers per the Toyota Owners Portal.

· What your original setup was - JBL or non-JBL

§ What I got with the truck is the Fujitsu ten 86120-0c060 radio (no JBL etching) and jbl amp 86280-af022 as pictured above, I don’t have steering wheel controls or anything like that. But everything turned on just no music/audio.

· Is your OEM amp still intact under the black plastic cover that lives inside the passenger under-rear-seat cubby?

§ The amp is under rear right seat with no black plastic and when I look up pictures mine looks way smaller than what’s usually there.

· Where did you get the donor harnesses from? Like, what EXACT cab type, what was its system, what was its year? (And you do know, Metra and a few others make replacement OEM harnesses, right?)

§ I have no donor harness just what the truck had in it and cut off of it(I did not know they made a whole new OEM harness, that might be what I look into because that saves this whole thing to be honest waiting on some things to start holding today but might hold off) Crutchfield only has the amp bypass and steering wheel stuff. Also speakers are untouched.

· What is the current state of your truck, and what plans do you have for audio moving forward, so we know if there's extra steps we need to add, or steps we can cut out?

§ For status, everything is cut behind the head unit and at the amp I have 4 connectors I’ve been mapping wiring for the last couple days. Truck side has all the correct wires connections side does not (the new complete harness would save my life) I’ve been using the diagrams I got from this website and slowly making progress.
I don't necessarily plan on doing anything too crazy but I'm not against it if i got to get new stuff either way, I'd like the option for amp sub whatever (if not too complicated)

@shifty` said "I was thinking the (or one of the) previous owner(s) was too stupid/lazy/cheap to buy a $8 adapter harness and went ham to cut all the original plugs out. I suspect Darby here has purchased used replacement hardware from incorrect make/model/year with the correct harnesses for the used equipment, which aren't the correct harnesses for their truck. Like, JBL amp from an '01-'04 Sequoia w/JBL package, and a head unit for a Tundra or similar, but one that works with either the Fujitsu amp or no amp, depending. I know the radio is, at least, from a 2003 or 2004+ truck, because it has 3 harness openings in the rear, the one in the middle of which is for steering wheel controls, something that didn't exist in earlier years."
-Which I agree with from what I've seen.

So here's the question do i find a new amp or head unit? Do i get a whole new OEM harness to route to avoid soldering and repining connectors galore? From what I've read these cannot work together ever, do I do ahead and upgrade both??? I'm already in there why not just get new head unit and amp to be fancier?

If you've seen me posting all over i apologize for the spam just looking through multiple avenues for answers when everything seemed crossed.

TIA

 

Those door panels are not JBL
That radio is not JBL
That amp appears to be JBL
If you dont have steering wheel controls, i dont think you have JBL
I might be wrong but i dont think the JBL amp is the one to put in there. The JBL amp is wired up weird, its not a standard output from the amp, to each speaker. Its got everything from the radio to the amp in a series i believe. Its really weird and its why you cant just plug behind the radio and pick up each speaker level out, the JBL radio wires TO the JBL amp only send like 2 or 3 positive speaker outputs, yet the vehicle has many many speakers. The amp is what splits it up into individual speaker level outs.
If you are mixing up a non JBL radio and a JBL amp, you may not be able to get them to jive.
Have you tried a standard Toyota harness and wiring it up to your radio and see if you can get a hand held speaker to work off the speaker level outputs on the back of the radio at the harness? May be easy to just bypass the amp completely if that radio has speaker level outputs.

 

I had to deal with the same thing in my truck and spent a lot of time on the phone with Crutchfield support. I ended up cutting the connector off the amp bypass connector and splicing the wires according to the wiring diagram that came with the harness. Ideally if you can find an oem harness I would splice it back in and use the connectors and adaptors to plug in.
It all depends on your goals, but you will probably have to pull an oem harness from a donor if you don't want to splice in connections. I would go ahead and upgrade the head unit at least since the amp isn't compatible and you can run the bypass harness. That should get everything working.
Best of luck.

 

@badass03taco @Kimosabe
I’m going to the junkyard this week to look into donor harnesses and I’m going to order the stock amp and see what I can do. If I don’t find the harness then I can order connectors and pin everything with what I already have (NEW amp included) or attempt to as I’ve never done anything with wiring. If that isn’t possible I’ll work into the bypass harness and all of that (on order just in case).
Might have to drive with the fuses pulled for a while

I am curious as to the connectors i may need for the original amp as it looks different. I'm using R12 & R13 that came with radio side wiring but the 1G (double cab) and IB4 (Guess) that were in the old JBL amp don't look like they are going to work and I'm trying to be prepared as to not waste any more time.
Using the below quoted reply i figured out part of it but does it go the same both ways and how do i find this information similar?? the EWDs have all listed but non specified (R12,R13,S21,S21???)

EDIT
Found some Part numbers if you guys need them for radio connectors and other just don't know which ill specifically need.
The Crutchfield guy said it has a 20 pin connector and a 13 pin connector (could be the 1g- access cab+standard cab)

 

So here's what I can tell you, definitively, without a single doubt:

• Your truck had the amplified audio system, with Fujitsu amp, and either the 1CD or probably 6CD head unit (probably with the "TRAF" and "RDS" buttons on the front), maybe Bubba's pic HERE will help with comparing wiring numbers and colors, but I'm not sure.
• If it helps, mine had similar or identical audio setup, and this is what showed in Toyota Owners portal and here are pics of the part numbers for my radio, amp, etc. (18th reply, start with the 3rd picture!)
• The original Fujitsu amp and its install location was HERE, under that black plastic panel, with two separate plugs going to it, IIRC one plug was for power/turn-on and other signals, the other plug was purely for speakers/input/output
• In the back amp underseat cubby, I can tell you the following wires are for speakers: Red, yellow, black, white are the rear speakers, light blue, light green, purple, pink are front speakers. The four wires in the grey sleeve, IIRC, are effectively the RCA wires from the head unit, but the speaker wires are confusing b/c you may find two of some wire colors in there
• The Metra amp bypass harness for your truck comes (this is the correct part!) with two connectors: (1) with yellow/orange/red/blue/black wires plugs into the dash radio connector, and the other plugs into the amp connector, to carry the speaker wires up to the dash, which is why those wires are so looooong (see the pics at Crutchfield's site)
• No matter what solution you choose to pursue: You will *ONLY* be using four wires from your dash for radio power/ground. You will *ONLY* be using 8 wires from your amp cubby to feed the speakers. The rest would get capped
• Whoever did that to your wiring is a fucking shithead asshole fuckbag, I wish them all the pain and suffering in life

I see two basic options for you here.

Option 1: Go aftermarket

• Cap off all the wires at the amp in the back except the speaker wires, of which you know the colors for, and you can easily test to confirm them using a 9v battery (I can explain).
• Install an aftermarket radio using the pinout info in the EWD; cap any extra wires, you should only need to use 4 of the wires there to get power etc.
• Run 4 pairs of speaker wires from the new aftermarket radio, back to the amp cubby and connect up the purple pair, green pair, white pair, and grey pair from that aftermarket radio to the speaker wires that terminate in the amp cubby
• I don't love this option, but it's an ends to a means; I'd prefer to find the correct in-dash harness, solder it up, and use a Metra connector to adapt at least the dash wiring, the amp isn't a major consequence IMHO

Option 2: Restore back to OEM, then proceed with the Metra bypass harness linked above to go aftermarket later

• Find a used head unit part number 86120-0C150 with harnesses intact in a donor vehicle, which will probably be a non-JBL Tundra year 2005-2006, and the Fujitsu amp, ideally with bracket and harnesses in part number 86280-0C061 which should also come from an '05-'06 Tundra, sepcifically access cab
• Match up the wires color for color on the harnesses, solder and heatshrink back together
• Plug everything back in and enjoy, consider using the Metra harness linked above for later

I can look in the EWD and tell you which wires to match to what inside the dash, and again, if you have a square 9v battery, I can tell you how to isolate which wires in the amp cubby are going to which speakers pretty easily, and how to confirm using that battery.

 

PS - I checked Metra's catalog, and it appears they only sell replacement factory harnesses for the non-amplified trucks

 

OK the plan is to go with Option 2 at this time and go from there, the only junk yard by me doesn't have the amp or radio so i will order those online, they weren't sure of any harnesses so I'm going to look for those today .. I've ordered the Metra harness as well. If i cannot find any donor harnesses today i will have to order connectors online, which is fine most are available that I've looked into so far. Parts will be in this weekend updates to come!

For the speakers all of those colors seem to match the EWD but it wouldn't hurt to make sure with your 9V trick.

Thank you for the info

 

Totally, and honestly, @BubbaW is way better with pinouts and finding connectors than me. If he has time/patience to do it, he may be able to help you find which connector p/n you need for the two amp connectors and help you figure out the pinout.

For the speaker test. You'll know the following:

• First: At the amp (And I guess at the head unit) before touching anything, locate any wires wrapped in a sleeve. There'll be at least two sleeves, one black sleeve with 2 wires, pink & light blue, and another grey sleeve with 4 wires, green, white, red black. The 2-wire is going to be your IVO wires that run between the head unit and amp. The green/white/red/black is the front/rear left & right audio channel (basically a pair of RCA cables without the ends).
• Grab the black sleeve, follow the wires to the end. Flag the end of the 2 wires together with a piece of painters tape or masking tape and write "IVO" on the tape.
• Grab the grey sleeve, follow the wires to the end. Fla the end of the 4 wires together with a piece of painters tape or masking tape and write "RCA" on them.
• At the amp again, with those wires set aside, we need to trace and test the following from the remaining wires:
  • Light green: Passenger front door (+) WARNING!: There will also be another light green wire used for TX-, but that one should be inside the same harness bundle as the grey-sleeved RCA wires!
  • Light blue: Passenger front door (-) WARNING!: There will also be another light blue wire used for TX+, but that one should be inside the same harness bundle as the grey-sleeved RCA wires!
  • Pink: Driver front door (+)
  • Purple: Driver front door (-)
  • Red: Passenger rear door (+)
  • White: Passenger rear door (-)
  • Black: Driver rear door (+)
  • Yellow: Driver rear door (-)
• When you test each pair of these wires, take a piece of painters tape or something, tape them as a pair, and mark them so you will always know what they are.
• Important to mention, the pink/purple and the light blue/green pair of wires go into each front door, and Toyota uses a parallel-split harness to fork each pair up to the tweeter and woofer, respectively. It's not important for this testing, but it's important that you know, maybe.
• If you take a 9V battery, you can confirm any speaker by holding the (-) wire for that speaker to the BIG terminal of the battery, then gently tap the (+) wire to the small terminal of the battery - when you do this, it will trigger the cone to push outward, and you'll hear a light POP sound - don't worry, you're not going to blow the speaker as long as you're not holding it on the battery terminal (and probably not even then), just tap a couple of times for a fraction of a second and you can confirm the circuit between the amp and speaker is still good.
• In case it's not clear -- All wiring in your truck goes SPEAKER => AMP => HEAD UNIT. The head unit feeds the amp (over the red/green/black/white grey-shielded pairs) an audio signal, then your amp pushes that sound out using those wires in the amp cubby.

Your radio wiring, from radio to amp including steering wheel controls) I believe is this wiring diagram here, I've circled the wires that should be in shielded sleeves, dark grey is black sleeve, light grey is the grey sleeve. Unless I'm mistaken, the brown wire is ground, normally the black wire on aftermarket radios, the grey wire is accessory power (12v+ key ACC) which is normally red on aftermarket radios, the red/green is your constant power (12+ key ON) which would normally be your yellow wire on aftermarket radios:

​

And here's the wiring for your amp, incoming and out to the speakers, which is the other half of the diagram above. Note the wavy line on the left side of the amp box above, it connects to the wavy line on the right side of the amp box here, and the top grey/red+green wires at the top of this next pic are linked to the circuits shown above, disappearing to the left:

​

 

Oh and the forum is going to nerf this, but bigger picture if you put the EWD pages together for your specific system, again remembering the grey and red/green power wire notes in my last reply, plus the brown wires that are ground, associated with each end of the puzzle... :

​