Did I toast it?

2005 4.7 V8 RWD.

I did the thing where you go to change your oil and accidentally drain the transmission fluid. Drove around the block until I realized the stupidity.

So, I replaced the fluid I drained, cycled through all the gears, checked the check plug, and went to take it for a drive.

Problem: there is no 'Drive', there. Power, but it won't engage. Goes into every gear no problem. Reverses no problem. No forward thrust.

I get a P2714. Solenoid D stuck off.

I've dropped the pan, checked the filter, checked the magnets, connectors, etc. It looks clean.

Plan is to swap out the solenoid. Anything else I should check? Thanks guys.

 

Did you overfill the engine with oil? To me it sounds like you drove around 4 quarts low on the tranny fluid and are 4-6.5 quarts over on the engine oil. Please explain.

 

Yes and yes. I drained approximately 3.5 quarts from the pan so I put back in 4.5 just to undo what I did. Then I drained the oil to the mid hi mark ( I had added 4 ) since I'm gonna empty it all out again when I get this gear situation sorted.

 

Wow.

 

What type of fluid did you put back in it? I don't think it's toast, but you're either looking at replacing solenoid D and or the valve body assembly itself. If you had access to tech stream and the FSM, you could know for sure. If not, start with replacing the solenoid and go from there.
If you do have to replace the VB you can't just throw in any VB from an A750 as they are not interchangeable (2WD vs 4WD). The VBs in the A340 have a casting ID number stamped on the body itself, but I can't locate one on yours from your pic so that may not be the case with the A750 VBs. I'm not familiar with the A750 as I am the A340.

 

Yikes. 3.5 quarts low for any sort of time isn't good. Sorry, I don't have any good advice for you from here. Sounds like you're on the right path.

 

Thanks for that. It's sort of where I was headed. I put in the rec ATF from AutoZone. I know it's not WS from the dealership but I wanted to getbsomething back in there. Hoping it's not a valve body replace. The only code I'm getting on repeat is "solenoid D stuck off." Like I said there's plenty of power and it runs like before it just won't kick into drive. It really WANTS to if I rev it to like 20000 rpm it lurches a bit but I don't wanna force it.

 

Are you 100% sure that you have enough fluid in it? What type fluid did you put in? Did you follow the field service manual on making sure that the fluid was added and adjusted properly? I'd hate for you to go into replacing things that aren't necessary.

 

Twenty Thousand revolutions per minute?!?!?!?!?

 

I appreciate that question. I am at about 95% certain, yes. I did have a friend help me pump the roughly same amount back in, and then did the check plug trickle and closed it back up.

 

Haa. Maybe I wrote that wrong. Just a mild rev on the engine. Nothing crazy. Thought it said 2000.

 

OK, STOP! Twice now you have failed to answer my question on the fluid type you used. Go to this thread and get you a copy of the Field Service Manual. FOLLOW THAT. You can't guess at these things.

 

Acknowledged! Thank U.

 

What voltage do those solonoids run at? Pull it out, hit it with a ?9v? Battery and see if it clicks. Is there a check ball on the ‘d’ circuit? Did you have to throttle it to make it back home from around the block, like did it start slipping or smelling?

 

I did have to throttle a bit towards the end of that five minute drive. It sort of petered to a stop and wouldn't do anything in drive. I put it in neutral and bumped it back home. Good point about the voltage. I know I have their proper numbers somewhere. I was just going to assume it was dead and swap it out since I'm already in there?

 

If its clicking and the computer doesnt know, it might be a stuck shuttle valve or checkball or pressure relief somewhere, dunno. Havent been inside anything more complicated than a th350.

how much sludge or sparkles was in the pan?

 

Hmmmmmm. Alright googling all those. But meantime yeah the fluid was clean. No sparklies. Nothing at all on the magnets. Nothing in the filter to indicate shredded anything. I am definitely not a mechanic so addressing anything more complicated than swapping out a solenoid might be beyond my pay grade.

 

Dont sell yourself short. Theres a first time for everything. Slushboxes are kinda in the deep end, but forums and youtube are floaties. Everyone can swim now.

 

Such poetry. I read it three times. Thanks man!

 

He's our resident poet.

 

Question: Are you sure you filled the trans with (A) the proper fluid, as your truck takes Toyota type WS fluid, and no other variety, and (B) you properly filled the fluid levels, per the standard process for a sealed transmission, because underfilling a transmission will produce missing-gear results? Also, did you shift/cycle through all of the gears a couple of times after filling the fluid, but before driving around, as you are supposed to do after doing anything transmission-fluid-related?

 

So to answer your questions. Yes I followed the procedure. Not precisely with heat gun and all that but to the point where it was up to temp and then let the check valve slowed to a trickle and cycled through gears and all that.

What you said made me nervous though, because I didn't use WS Toyota fluid. It was the wrong damn fluid! Totally missed that...Now I'm really sweating bullets.

I can't imagine there's anything to do but drain it again? I don't have a fuel pump so I wonder if this mistake can be flushed out in four quarts. I've got 6 WS ATF on order. Is that a good place to start?

Thank you.

 

If it was Valvoline Max life, your good. It works too.

 

Yeah it was! I just double checked. I think what I remember doing was putting the original fluid back in ( about 3,5, then adding two more quarts of the Valvoline.).
I guess my question would be which is more likely to create my situation (power no drive) an overfilled or underfilled transmission?

 

Under filled. But your problem sounds like it’s an internal valving issue. Solenoid not actuating? Driving it for any extended time frame on low fluid and having to give more gas to make it go to the point it stops moving is a recipe for transmission damage.

 

Ok. Noted. I did drive it around the block the one time but that was it. It has been parked since. I am waiting on the solenoid so I guess once that comes in I'll swap it out and get the fluids back to level and go from there? I didn't see any evidence of damage like shredded bits or burnt trans fluid. I hope it just blew the fuse, so to speak, to prevent further damage?

 

Hopefully so.

 

Thanks for chiming in. I appreciate this community for these kinds of things.

 

I want to say solenoid D is the easier one to replace?

The FSM does have a symptoms chart that breaks down potential causes based on gear for the earlier years, @The Black Mamba has posted it before, I'm guessing there's one there for the later year 5spd like ours too.

That said, it'll also break down the code and give you steps on what to look into.

 

This is exactly why I asked you that question yesterday

Good to know