General Supercharger Thread

Ok. I got it parked front side sloped down in the driveway hopefully any air bubbles will make it out. And I put the battery on the charger

 

Make sure it has excellent connetivity, I have had to run an ethernet cable to my driveway.

 

I'll give that a try!

 

Several times I have has full bars & it has failed.

 

If you’ve got a radio that taps into the OBD port make sure you disable the OBD connection in the headunit. I’ve had that cause issues.

 

My only concern is that the elec ic pump...the sound it makes hasn't changed at all. From dry to having fluid in it.

How will I know if it fine or not. My stereo will tell me the air intake temp

 

Do you see fluid movement in tank?

 

No, not really

 

The pump isn’t loud. You’ll see fluid slowly moving in the tank. It’s not like high volume. Remove the cap and look at it while the truck is running.

 

With key on/acc the I/C pump should be moving fluid. You can try priming the pump but hard to believe it is air bound as fluid should of flowed to the inlet of pump.

 

Whatever you do, don't do the "hammer to the starter" trick to kick it into gear and start flowing

You're SO close! This might be your favorite Friday, when you get this thing buttoned up!

 

You should be able to feel flow in the output hose at the pump.

 

Or if you want to go extreme disconnect the hose at the pump, that will prime it real fast and confirm there's fluid to it.

 

I’ve never done it, but was told if you take the lid off the reservoir on the Harrop at least with the pump on that the fluid flies all over the place from the flow. Haha

Im sure on a larger reservoir you could have flow through the reservoir and it not splash out of the lid. There’s not much volume though in these small reservoir’s to buffer the splashing.

 

The downhill slope worked....came out this morning and the reservoir was empty

It's sucking up a lot of coolant now.

 

The long Ethernet cable worked....got it flashed

Letting it idle for a bit to come up to temp and relearn everything.
I want to see how the Whipple tune is in case I need to flash it for emissions before I reach out to the sniv shop for a tune.

 

Congratulations!! Best week of "work," ever!

 

Well I guess I didn't solve that coolant drip. Was letting it warm up as I was cleaning up, and came out to a puddle and dripping from under the throttle body.
So I guess cranking down on that fitting didn't cut it. Maybe I'll put the clamp more over the barb.


The fitting that points towards the back of the truck on the throttle body isn't one of those that can be plugged (throttle body heater for cold weather?).

 

Yes, TB ports can be plugged if you want. Mine's been bypasses since I installed.

 

You can loop out the throttle body, the just put plugs on the TB barbs. I can’t find a good pic of that, though it should be pretty straightforward.

I did have a few leaky coolant hose fittings around the TB and coolant crossover after initial install - the smaller lines. The dealer double clamped them but I’ll be replacing the lines soon.

 

Loop or cap seems to work just fine. I then put vacuum caps on the TB ports to keep dust out.

 

I did the same and haven't had any issues in the blissful cold, either...less heat into your intake! Do it!

 

Thanks everyone....I moved the clamp closer to over the barb of that fitting and so far so good. It's really reassuring that I can just loop those with a properly sized barb.


Just took it for a drive. Holy hell.....the juice was worth the squeeze. Instatorque!

 

Congratulations!!

Enjoy!

Living on the sun, my first mod has been bypassing the tb "coolant"

 

If I install a blower on my own truck again, I am bypassing the throttle body and the PCV heater, that will save like 4 hoses and all the connections. Way simpler and less failure points.

 

So i've let it idle for probably about 20 min, drove it around the neighborhood....still no leak. (fingers crossed).

I'm about to go run some errands, so i'll see how it does on the road. If it leaks again i'll just get a barb and bypass it.

Thanks again for everyones help and avice during this journey

 

I removed the oil cooler lines when I installed the engine oil/air cooler. Good info as it looks like another area to bypass.

 

Those sure do like the extended length 2AZ studs! Good on XAT for supplying them… their price is better than buying 2 of the 2AZ kit, too.

https://www.tundras.com/threads/two-head-stud-options-from-arp.133715/

 

Sure does doesn't it! Good to know lol Main studs should be here soon.

 

9.5 hours or so today on @sbxx312 truck. By the 13.5 (total) hour mark I was essentially done with the supercharger install. That included the fuel pump only taking an hour which was shockingly fast.





The truck has a winch which also set me back some time, I had to make a bracket to move the intercooler pump to clear the winch. Nothing fancy but worked quite well. Winch functions are still accessible and just had to shorten the hoses a bit.



Puppy has been a big help, eating pine cones and foam and laying in the way under the truck



Innovate O2 sensor bung went smooth, as usual i cut it in half because the one they ship is way too long imo



And then I wrapped up the day by mocking up the interior gauge mounts. As with every 14-21 truck we seem to come up with a new gauge mounting location, and this one actually slaps I think!



@sbxx312 provided a new black dash piece so this is just a mockup. The wideband wires come out next to the trailer brake controller which is perfect. The black dash trim should look nearly factory I think. There is also the Banks gauge that will be mounted on the mirrored side. I had brought two backup gauge mounting options but this is actually pretty straightforward, although this dash piece involves literally removing every trim piece between both doors so is a bit of an adventure to get this deep into the dash, but the end result will be epic I think!

Fingers crossed I get the truck done tomorrow so I can go home Sunday!