What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

This always seems to end up fan clutch.

 

I agree with @KNABORES on fan clutch but I'd also inspect your rad cap even though it is newer OEM.

 

So close to 1337

 

Here you go, assdawg

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Really nice Pshop!

 

You guys are like me, none of the indicator lights on the dash work

 

Have you tried the coolant dye test to see where the leak is coming from?

 

I can try another new clutch and cap but they are so Stinkin new idk.

I haven’t tried the dye test. Maybe that will be the next thing to try.

 

That and a pressure test.

 

Today I stopped by home despot omw home from work this morning. Woke up about noon and resealed all the windows on my topper with silicone. Then jacked up the topper to put down fresh weather stripping. I made the mistake of trusting that the ARE, with it's folded over design and factory foam, would keep moisture out prior. Should be pretty much sealed at this point. I know the back window will need a little more attention near the tailgate, but it's pretty good for now.

 

It's not a Bedrug, but it's the next best thing. Today I found a bed mat that is actually for the Access Cab

 

I see you also did some bolts like I did.
But I just did one on either side of the rear (for alignment purposes) and used 6 clamps.
I'm jealous of the wondoors.
Both cab rear and topper front windows are solid?

 

The snugtop came factory with j-hooks and shifty strongly suggested to also get the c-clamps so now it's hurricane proof

 

Daddy likey. What’s the deets

 

We took a real mint 03 in on trade at it was in the back. I made it mine in about 10 seconds flat. No clue what brand.

 

Drove my truck about 6.5 hours back from Northern California today. One tank of gas, and got a very nice 19 MPG with the AC on and driving through lots of passes. Probably did between 1300 and 1400 miles with it since Wednesday of last week when I took off. Only real complaints with the truck are I really wish there was a half AC setting like old cars used to have. When it's 100+ outside and the AC is on for hours at a time, my hands start getting cold. And this Tundra just like every other Toyota truck I've ever driven, left drivers seat bolster should be firmer, but they always get worn down from getting in and out of the truck. It'd be nice if it kept me more centered, I notice I tend to slide a little towards the door on longer drives.

 

Put a couple fat washers under the left rear seat bracket and use a longer bolt. That'll help with the slump to the left side.

 

My exact thought

 

Don't you short change me!

My CEL is burned out, as well as the P & D light, other than that they're all off. No codes though. I try to check it about once a month.

 

Ican't tell it apart from the Westin mat.

 

Id say that it's time for a new steering shaft seal.

 

It's not as bad as some I've seen. I have two spares on-hand, to last the next long while. Last time I checked mine was alright.

Looks like you're missing two bolts.

 

Yeah, it's not terrible.

I stumbled up on an old thread here when researching my loosy goosy steering/bought the steering rack bushings. It was how one members steering rack bolts were loose and their seal was disintegrating. I wanted to peel mine back to check the bolt tightness (they were snug) and the condition of the seal. It'll be a project down the line.

The missing bolts were for this cover that I had to remove. (Behind the soft cover that was velcroed on) It had 3 10mm bolts attaching it.

 

Got it. I just peeked around the cover to see mine. Honestly, if you have fiberglass insulation adn the noise is bugging the hell out of you, do what I think @Jack McCarthy did, and stuff a little insulation in the boot. Temp fix.

I've had a lot of pain and suffering (PTSD) from doing steering shaft stuff (replacing intermediate, usuallly, but also PS pump on drive framerail) with GM trucks over the years. To the point I'm not looking forward to replacing the seal when the time comes.

That said ... if/when you do, be sure to lock/strap your steering wheel in-place, and mark both sides of any joint you separate. New clocksprings are expensive and off-center steering wheels are aggravating.

 

Thanks for the tip on marking the location and locking the steering wheel. I did see the fiberglass setup when digging around, hah. I'll probably try it first and this job is pretty low priority right now.

And no worries on the clock spring. I need a new one anyway. I hear the lovely faint "crackle" when turning.

 

Installed my Suspension Maxx sway bar end links, pretty damn beefy over stock ones. Also dechromed the badging and replaced the lugs with black ones. I hadn't planned on it but I'm glad I did, looks much better IMO.

 

Trying to narrow down my leak. I pulled my interior apart longer ago than I'd like to admit, and haven't done much investigating. Got in the truck the other day and found water dripping from the picture below. This is right by the corner of the driver side of the windshield.


Seems like it wouldn't be the windshield itself but maybe still some kind of third brake light leak or maybe from the rear window, still need to go at it with a garden hose to verify I suppose.

This only happens when that corner of the truck is the lowest point downhill. I park like this when I have my trailer hooked up, when my trailer is unhooked and I park the other direction I don't have any issue. Seeing what yall think before I dig in one day soon. With the truck apart like this it doesnt seem like the water can make it to the fuse box so that helps, just drips straight in the rubber floor mat.

 

Installed this sub remote in the center cubby. Using some 3m tape to hold it for now but might use fasteners later if it gets loose

 

My 03 does that as well. I first noticed it when I hung my mic from the headliner in that corner. It would just be a few drops. Since I moved the mic, I haven't noticed any moisture, but I'm certain it's still there, just not visible anymore.