2000 Battery Problem

After going out of town and letting my truck sit for over a month the battery was dead. Took battery to recharge at local shop and they replaced the battery for free because it did not charge properly.

Put in new battery and get nothing- no interior lights…. My Tundra’s security system always honks when the battery is replaced or jumped but did not. Took battery back and shop said it is good. I examined the cables and cleaned the terminals.

I looked at the fuse box by the battery and didn’t see anything to stop all power.

Truck ran fine prior to battery issue.

Any advice? I am not a mechanic at all.
Thank you.

 

The factory security system shouldn't honk when replacing the battery, for one. Are you sure the dealer didn't install an add-on system? Can you show us a picture of your keyfob, and confirm there are no surface-mount LEDs (either red, or blue) on the dash?

You didn't hook the battery cables up backwards at any point, did you? Positive is always closest to the engine, and stupid shit like this can happen if you, even for a minute, get the cables backwards.

The basic flow of electricity into the cabin is as follows: Battery => Fuse/relay box next to battery => Harness from that box thru the firewall next to the brake booster => Harness terminates into the back of the fusebox
(that's basically it, very dumbed-down/oversimplified version).

Two things to note:

• There *IS* at least one fuse in the engine bay fuse/relay box that can kill the power feed from that fuse/relay box over to the in-dash fusebox.
• There *IS* a known issue with these trucks - especially if you have a cracked windshield or a rusted windshield surround, or broken A-pillar seals or windshield trim and leave it parked outside - which causes water leaking into the in-dash fusebox which will cause a myriad of issues (pics & pics & pics it happens a LOT)

So we can actually look at wiring diagrams specific to your truck, what cab type and engine is in it? Access cab or regular cab, V8 or V6? 2WD or 4WD? This is extremly important info to provide.

 

Security system has been disconnected. V8 Access cab.

 

I checked the fuse box in the interior cabin and it shows no obvious problems.

 

I'll need to dig in diagrams unless @BubbaW has a minute.

When you say "security system has been disconnected", what does that mean? Are you saying the truck does have an aftermarket security system, and you previously disconnected it? Or maybe you just now disconnected it?

But tell me this, what is this unexpected extra cable over here and why is it attached where it is?

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There is a surface mounted LED. That is what I use to stop the honking when the battery is replaced.

 

Recap for a sec: What all is non-functioning inside the cab? Like...

Overhead lights?
Dash lights?
Gauges?
Does the clock come on?
Does the hazard lights button work and light up?

Just curious to know what circuits are impacted. If you do have water intrusion, looking at the front of the fusebox won't tell you jack.

 

I used a wire brush on the battery terminals and pushed the red LED button in and out. Change- the airbag button briefly turns on and I hear a slight slight sound when I turn the key. Kind of like a dim hollow sound.

 

No overhead lights
No lights
Interior cargo light comes on
Hazards work
Airbag comes on briefly-maybe seat belt
LED button has no red light

 

The interior cargo light button is what comes on

 

When mine died like that, it was the main ground cable that had rotted out internally.

 

Do not know what the red cable is. Looks good on fuse box but not at other end-rusty. It is the cable on the right with red.

The truck has an aftermarket security system that disabled years ago as far as I know but when the truck is jumped or a new battery put in it starts honking immediately.

This is how I stop the honking.

Key off
Push red button out
Turn key on
Red button in
Key off

I think the red button used to be lit when out- no light on it now- in or out.

 

I tried to take the red cable on the fuse box by battery that Shifty pointed out. Could not get it off but I accidentally let the wrench touch the battery positive post and red cable, the car honked. The honking is usually what tells me the new battery is installed and working.

 

Is the main ground cable the one going from the battery to the frame? Mine is rusty at frame.

 

That would absolutely do it. There should be two cables coming off the negative: One to the fender right next to the battery, and one down to the frame or block (I forget). There are other grounds around the truck, the obvious one is the one that goes from the firewall, just off-center on the passenger side, down to the engine block.

The contraption on your firewall is an electrical breaker. Basically ensures anything downstream that's drawing power from that lead, if it arcs/shorts, that breaker throws to stop the flow of power, then resets itself just in case it was a temporary thing. I'm going to take a wild guess and assume someone has it setup for trailering, and that's going back for trailer/trailer brake.

Sounds like you have a lot of extra wiring in your truck. If you're not using any of that stuff, it may be a good course of action to properly remove it. The sad reality is, people do stupid shit like T-tapping/quick-tapping wires that are outside the vehicle, and those connections go bad/rot with time (t-taps and quick taps and scotchloks are hackish garbage for lazy people who don't give a shit about their vehicle), the realistic lifespan on aftermarket alarms is typically 10-15 years before they start flaking out and causing issues with starter/fuel pump (if integrated), and if you don't know how to properly manage your battery, by using terminal felts, being good about cleaning corrosion 1x-2x/year, then your cables will rot from the inside out. We've seen all of these be issues, plenty.

Can you take some pics for us? They're easy to share using the "Upload a File" button in the reply box here.

 

The red terminal end at under hood fuse box is probably going back to that rusty terminal at firewall by brake booster. Those items attached to the firewall are Pollak 30A circuit breakers and are not factory IMHO.
Might want to figure out what their for someday when things aren't broke.

Why it honked can't say but both the pos battery post and red terminal add on are one in the same.....a positive point. The red terminal at fuse box is attached to the same big positive cable going to alternator. So unless you accidently touched ground, should not have been a problem.

Be a tad more explicit....."No lights"....head lights, turn signals, dash lights ??....Certain lights are on different circuits, it matters in what you add to help us help you.
When door is open, do door lights come on. Does the Gauge cluster light up properly.

Airbag and seat belt are 2 different indicators. If it's the airbag indicator, when key is turned to IGN ON, it will stay on for about 3 sec and then go off.

 

Here is a recap:

- when I change out a battery or jump the truck the horn always honks repeatedly until I push the red led button and turn key in a specific pattern- always for shops as well. Honk happens immediately when I touch the negative terminal to the post when installing battery.

- the horn did not beep this time and I had the new battery checked

- as I recall I had the aftermarket security system disabled many years ago and the only thing I know about it is the new battery honk thing

- when I turn on the key I only get the airbag light to flash, hazards light works in cab, and the cargo light switch turns on in the cab- no radio, interior lights, headlights, dashboard lights

- I was told that the red cable on the fuse box may be a part of the old alarm system and that is keeping it from starting. When I tried to take it off I think I touched the battery positive at the same time and the truck honked

- I cannot remove the red cable nut even though it looks clean. I tried liquid wrench

- I have not cleaned the ground yet but I think totally disabling the security is my answer because I am getting some power to the cab even though ground is rusty

- Cable connects are clean, terminals too

 

Even tho a number of circuits would be affected that's not being mentioned, I don't want to assume wrongly.

Would you mind carefully checking all of the bigger clear faced fuses, in particular the ones highlighted....120A and 50A.

 

The 120A seems clearly burnt to me. Maybe not blown, but burnt.

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Yes, that 120A appears to be blown. Think it is marked ALT on cover. Is that my problem? Can I replace at an auto part store.?

 

You should be able to buy at auto parts store. Any blown fuses are contributing to the overarching problem. Note they can be a real PITFA to get out. Watch a video on YouTube.

 

As I suspected not only from the looks of it when I zoomed in but for all the circuits that it protects, which is one reason it’s a 120A.

 

Also worth mentioning: It would be helpful to understand how/why that fuse blew. Did you do anything to cause this, anything you can think of?

I usually tell people to never attach the (+) battery terminal last because I’ve seen the resulting spark blow fuses. But the other thing that will cause fuses to blow is … corrosion.

 

Thanks everyone for all the help.

I’m not sure why that fuse blew. I have replaced the battery before and never had a problem. After watching a video on its replacement I opted for a mechanic.