01 V8 Knock sensor wiring

I don’t think Denso makes the knock sensors. I was told NTK (sensor division of NGK) made them. Might check out NTK 72872 $95.33. Rock Auto sell this one for $79

 

Denso and Aisin (and Advics) are OEM manuf'er for a wild array of parts on our trucks. Aftermarkets have gone to shit in the last several years. These trucks are also finicky when it comes to electronics, knockoffs don't meet Toyota's stringent requirements for quality, precision, longevity.

Local parts stores are going to charge you 2x the price on parts.
Amazon and others I listed unfortunately have counterfeit parts entering their inventory stream, regularly, they're not safe.
Rock Auto is safe and usually cheapest, and Summit Racing is safe, nearly as cheap, but will pricematch anything to RockAuto (for the shipped/taxed price).

Part lookup for Denso: https://www.densoautoparts.com
Part lookup for Aisin/Advics: https://aisinaftermarket.com/online

Start there - you didn't include 2WD or 4WD in your truck description, some parts will change based on that variable, like O2/air-fuel sensors.

 

I'm nearly positive make the knock sensor for my VVTi truck. But @DKC's engine isn't the same as mine, he has the non-VVTi version of the V8.

Wait ... that's weird. Did they stop making it? I just went to look it up... I had a browser window opened and saved in my phone for the knock sensor and cam position sensor for my truck, and now the knock is returning a 404?

I know they changed the knock sensor style for VVTI. The VVTi style sensor is a donut, that gets bolted to the block. Here's a pic from my snake cam, when I was inspecting the wiring (I'm getting a periodic, random P0328 only once in a blue moon, and only when cold). Also note it uses a side-plugged 2-wire connector in the VVTi years. I'm fairly certain there's something stupid going on with the pictured connector, in my case:

​

 

If you can’t find the OEM pigtail perhaps you could use

$13 82219-34010 MOTOALL Knock Sensor Wiring Harness for Toyota 4Runner Tacoma Tundra T100, 82219-34010

82219-34010

 

Non-VVT 4.7 knock sensors

 

Gotcha. I've seen two types of connectors for the knock sensor on the 2000-2004 Tundras, and I swear for y'alls earlier years, there's an all-in-one 4-pin to double-2-pin mini-harness to replace the OEM harness. Maybe it's only for the 2003-2004, and the 2000-2002 you and @DKC have are different.

I **REALLY** wish Toyota made a product like this for all the 2UZ, given all the f'n rodent chew problems with this engine, but it looks like my 2006, I'll basically be re-terminating the connectors and replacing the plastic plug to fix my P0328 code. I think I'm going to replace the damn knock sensor while I'm in there, "just in case". My issue isn't that I have knock. My issue is, either the sensor failed, or there's a problem with the connector. Seems like all the P0328 (bank 1 circuit high) and P0333 codes (bank 2 circuit high) codes link back to bad wiring or faulty sensor.

​

 

PS @DKC, one point to note.

I noticed on my truck, in the FSM's process for 2005+ trucks, it shows a specific torque on the knock sensor, and they need to be clocked in a very specific direction. I haven't checked the FSM for earlier years, but maybe something to look at.

We often take for granted while unscrewing something, that we simply need to screw it back in. Not the case with many things, whether it be something basic like head bolts, or something like the park neutral safety switch or thermostat, which need to be oriented/clocked a very specific way.

I usually look at the FSM, which you can download using links in the megathread, before doing any "new to me" job on my truck. Just to be 100% sure there's no ahas/gotchas at play.

 

Found this gem, I think this will be my issue.

https://www.tundras.com/threads/01-knock-sensor-harness-woes.155827/

 

Yup sure enough that ec1 is frayed and disconnected on the grey wire.

 

Oh wow, am I reading that pic correctly, that it's on the back of the heads/intake? I think I see the coolant crossover along the bottom of the image, and the bellhousing under the subject connector, with a bolt that has a blue dot on top.

 

Yea I'm weighing options now

I have 3 solid options and 1 shit one.

1. Somehow get to it and patch it. (Idk if that's possible without removing the tranny or harness altogether)

2. Jump it at the ecu and if it clears call it good

3. Replace the entire harness, there's definitely enough damage to justify that.

4. Keep driving it as is

 

is it this taped up connector on the engine harness holder? It looks to connector to a blank on my 2000. Not sure what it does.

 

No it's behind/below that

 

Here's what mine looks like, I had to jump the connector due to not enough slack on the damaged side

 

Two things, I notice some other fraying (top oval) and also, you have another broken wire in here (bottom oval). And actually, there may be another broken wire farther down below the broken brownish-orange wire here, I can't tell because it's out of focus.

​

 

the top wire that you circled in blue is what that jumper replaced. the bottom circle is to an empty connector but I did patch that before closing it up. I'm still getting the same code. I'm looking to replace that main engine electrical harness with one from ebay; however, I have two choices. One w/o daytime running lights or one with. I'm unsure which one to get.

 

looks like RA is cheapest. With a quick Google search most are well above a c-note in price

 

so actually there are two gray wires on the ec1. and I cut and jumped the wrong one! Patching that up now.

 

Oh shucks, sorry you have to go through this again. Huge thanks to you for posting the detailed pics and updates!
I'm dealing with the same issue right now on my 2001 2wd. P0330 + P0325 codes. My wires are intact going to the sensor clips, and no signs of damage on them going to the plastic gray box by the starter.
Is the connector you're jumping more on the passenger side or directly behind/below the two tapped up 'sensors'?

Good luck!!

 

Connection right behind the starter. Mine green black in ec1 goes to a gray wire with copper inside. The knock sensor gray to a gray on ec1 with silver wire. 2wd will be different but the diagram shows it. Attached PDFs

 

Well bank 1 code is gone. Now I'm coding on bank 2. Going in for my 12th attempt.

 

I'm gonna ask the controversial question here, don't take this as a slight or anything.

But, did you:

• Tug-test all of the wires you spliced at the rear? I can see 100%, those rear harness wires with the red butt splices are NOT crimped using a proper crimper. They're also not sealed splices, which, with some water and heat, will have the wires inside rotted sooner than later.
• Test the integrity of the knock sensor wiring from end-to-end using a DMM
• Tug-test and re-verify all the knock sensor wiring splices? Note that those are shielded wires if my memory serves, and will have potential issues with interference if the wiring is markedly longer than stock, especially if the replacement wires are unshielded/etc for long runs.
• The knock sensor wires should really be soldered and heatshrinked, no other option is truly appropriate here.

 

Look after doing this 12 times I've gotten a bit lazy, I cleared one code so I can do something right. I didn't leave it like this either, I heated the crimp points in and taped it all up. It's likely the black got pulled out when I was taping it up.

 

Just throwing out thoughts, don't shoot the messenger

 

I got it all cleared up. Did a burnout near my house. Thanks for the help everyone!

 

Don't leave us in suspense, what was the 'gotcha'?!

 

Bad crimping on my part. Didn't survive the tape job! Got it crimped properly, heated, and taped. Continuity test from ecu plug to knock sensor bank 1 and 2 was good.