reverse output wire 2002 tundra

Guys,

A little help, I know I know this has been posted before but I don't have hours to search for the answer. Where would I tap into the reverse light in my 2002 SR5 access cab output up front in the cab? foot panel harness access? drivers? passenger side?

Stephen

 

Help me understand why.

There is a wire in the driver kick panel for 2000-2006, and one in the dash on 04+, but the wild majority of people never need to touch it, and probably shouldn’t. Especially not if you’re wiring up a reverse camera. It’s the wrong way to accomplish that job.

 

shifty`

I took the rear taillight out and blue with red stripe is the color wire shown in the diagram. but in the truck by the driver's side kick panel that color wire is dead whether in reverse or not. At the taillight blue with red stripe wire is 12V+ when ignition is on and truck is in reverse. The wire I'm trying to find in the cab is the reverse switch output to connect to my reverse camera. I don't want to connect at the taillight and run a 12 foot piece of wire

Stephen

 

Your camera didn’t come bundled with a the turn-on wire that runs along with the video wire? What kind of camera is it exactly? That would be super weird.

 

shifty`,

The camera turn on red wire connects near the end or camera connection to the radio, its a BOSS Audio Systems LPCB40 Reverse Rearview

Stephen

 

There's usually a red wire at both ends on the camera cable, you connect one end to your reverse lights at the back of the vehicle then it runs up with the video cable for you to hook to the head unit.

 

Correct.

All you need to do is tap the camera power along with that red wire onto the reverse tail light power at the back of the truck, then connect the other end of the wire to the radio's reverse trigger in the dash, and you're done (pic below showing the three common ways to manage it, depending on the wires that came with your camera).

When you put the truck in reverse, the truck send power to the tail light, which then powers up the camera, and the same little red wire tells your radio, "Hey, I'm in reverse! Time to show the driver what's on the camera!".

You absolutely do not need to tap into any wires inside the cab! Use the wire your camera manufacturer gave you.

More info on wiring up a reverse camera over here, none of which requires tapping off anything inside the cab. It's just a cleaner, easier way of doing things, in my humble opinion.

 

Shify,

There are no extra input wires or ground wire with the cable that came with the camera, only a positive input wire at the radio end of the cable supplied, so radio trigger and camera positive has to be supplied up front in the cab somewhere. I assume the BOSS camera uses the RCA shield for its ground. Research reveals that the Alpine's violet white cable is the reverse input signal. So all connections with power have to be done inside of the cab.

Stephen

 

Well, you need to contact BOSS, maybe you got defective product? Here's the install sheet for that exact camera you've just given the part number for: https://images.salsify.com/image/upload/s--SutX_XSk--/wxovgshrsy3vg6ybwbaj.pdf

It clearly shows there is a turn-on lead combined with the camera, which runs the full length of the wire.

See right here, on page 2 of the instruction manual for the camera I just linked. Note wire "C" and "D", which is the same wire, the turn on wire. They tie it together with the camera power wire, and ideally you would link that wire to your reverse light wire, in the rear of the truck.

And note, their install shows the exact same as "Option C" in my picture. That is the correct way to install this camera, without needing to tap any wires in the cab.

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Shifty,

Got the camera to work today, yesterday I tapped into the reverse dash light at the trucks cluster harness connection (red-black) and connected that to the violet-white of the Alpine and also to the red wire coming out of the Boss camera supplied RCA cable. When the truck was in reverse the radio sound would cut off but the screen went black! I was halfway there last night and quit for the evening. There is no red connector by the camera video input like what is shown in your diagram Thinking about the camera last night, looked for negative wire again this morning. There is no ground wire anywhere on the harness that came with the camera, there is a loop of blue, a loop of green and a loop of white. These are not explained on the Boss website not mentioned in the install booklet that came with the camera. I saw a video online explaining the the camera image could be flipped 180 degrees on your screen if you cut the white loop. Didn't touch any of the loops but peeled back the cable a little and saw a tiny black wire, cut insulation and grounded it and an image appeared on the radio when truck is in reverse only. So some progress was completed today, installed front door speakers and finished the under seat sub wiring sounds "full" but not boomy glass rattling or distorted, nice.

Stephen

 

All cameras have those loops, you either leave them intact or cut them, to change certain behaviors of the cameras. I linked you with their install doc above, it's clearly in the instructions, at the top of page 4 on the install sheet. Did you read the entire install sheet before install, like you should? It's right here:

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Oh, and I'm not sure what to tell you on the camera power.

I can only tell you what I see in their install sheet. Where did you buy the camera? It sounds like it doesn't match the manufacturer's spec.

Usually the power lead is either (A) a black round power plug, (B) a red and black wire, (C) a red round power plug, and it would be within the first 12" of wiring coming out of the back of the camera. The virtually ALWAYS put the power within inches of the camera, because they expect you to pull power from the rear of the car, typically from the reverse light. Shocking, I know! This is why you should never need to tap the reverse signal from anywhere in the cab!

The only thing I can tell you is:

• With the purple Alpine wire attached to reverse trigger, it will automatically jump the screen to the camera input
• If your camera doesn't have power, no video will be showing on that input, so you'll get a black screen

I don't know how I can possibly make this any easier for you. BOSS gives you the instructions. If your product doesn't match what's in the instructions, that's a huge problem, and you shouldn't be installing it. If you can't find power wires, that's a problem. I think you're missing something somewhere.

Let me ask, because I went to scAmazon and looked this piece of shit up. Is this what you got in your box? The camera looks like this? (Former-installer rant: This is why fanatics and people who do this for a living hate cheap-shit products like BOSS. For $10 more, you can get a baseline camera from BOYO or NVX)

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I flipped thru the scAmazon reviews and found someone holding the box, with the camera in the background (see red oval). I clearly see, very near to the camera bracket, the yellow video connector and the red power connector (see left side of my oval), and clearly the product is correct because I see the box. Did yours come in the same box, or did you get a white-box item? (i.e. white-box counterfeit product, as would be soooo typical for scAmazon)

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Not sure if it helps, but I'm going to post some other videos here for you to verify your product. I *DO NOT* recommend installing how they do, these guys are fucking up so many things, but at least you can see if your camera matches theirs.

I clearly see in this 1st video, this is what's showing for your supposed product, this is what you should've received, and I *CLEARLY* see the power/grounding wire you need to use for that camera:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gRIawegKyWc

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nJxJEKd_SJ8

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3aTfj8FpmQ8​

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Shifty

None of your pictures relate to what I have, for now everything is working correctly and I thank you for your assistance

Stephen

 

Learned 2 important things here today : [Actually just 1; already knew to avoid scamazon at all costs]
STAY AWAY FROM BOSS products, if you can.

Seems counter intuitive to buy an ALPINE HU, and then follow up w/a relatively important Accessory,...by BOSS...IDK?

 

BOSS products are, for the most part, absolute trash. And they always have been. I try to warn people as much as I can, but ... this thread sort of shows why: Shitty documentation, maintaining the same model number even though the hardware has changed, and missing essential bits, like a clear power and ground wire.

BOSS is pretty much the bottom of the quality barrel, totally not worth the money you save, solely in the cost of frustration and problems. Quality-wise, Jensen, DUAL are the same company and only a small notch above BOSS. Kenwood and JVC are a step above that, getting out of the low-end and heading more toward medium-quality. Pioneer, Alpine, Sony are in the mid and upper end of quality.

At least, IMHO and experience, that's the case. There's a lot of brands that aren't around anymore that I'd have dropped in there. Blaupunkt, Nakamichi, Eclipse, and Clarion being in the mid-upper tiers of stuff (some mid, some high). I'm pretty sure Eclipse was actually Fujitsu Ten, which is who made much of the OEM amps and head units for our trucks.

 

The only aftermarket radio I ever had was an Alpine. It had good sound but what do I know?

 

@stevon ...I guess your RearViewCam working for you now?

Related:
Im curious about your Alpine HU model AND your 'Powered Sub' make/model ?
Im still 'wavering' over what replacement HU to go with...I keep raising and lowering my price point and requirements...

Sounds like you found your FGT audio sweet spot.

 

ps8820,

I'm keeping the budget (mostly) and buying open box and some used components.
The low power sub I used is a

$100 Rockville SS8P 400W 8" Slim Under-Seat Active Subwoofer, High-Level Inputs, Cast Aluminum Enclosure, for Car/Truck Audio Systems

Rockville SS8P 8" slim under-seat active powered car/truck Subwoofer Sub. This is not a powerful sub woofer but just used it to fill out the sound. You would need 2 of these to really notice loud bass. They are self powered but with a 15 amp fuse I didn't expect or get much, you can "tune" it and set frequency, phase and boost but it has limited output without distortion, probably could buy another one and put it under the driver's seat if I really wanted more bass, I'm happy with it as is with slight adjustments.

Stephen

 

How'd you wire it in? Distortion is often a byproduct of bad `1v power transmission (too small gauge wire, poor grounding being the two biggies)

 

Shifty,

Have some electrical engineering I studied in college, was quite easy actually, power, ground, turn on wire and preamp cable run up to the Alpine HU. Used a metal snake to get back under the carpet. With the passenger seat removed it was no problem, pulled a rope back and forth with whatever wire I needed. Also ran a cigarette lighter socket for the back seat area while I was at it.

Stephen

 

Yup, I helped @Dakillacore wire up his Atoto and Master Tailgaiter's camera today. It was easy peasy. We used Method B above, and it fired up, first time, like a champ, clear as day. No issues.

Only had to posi-tap two wires (power, ground) behind the driver tail light, then connect the trigger lead at the head unit. We spent more time routing the video wire than anything.

Systems Engineer for 26 years. I've worked with a bunch of EEs during my career, mostly working on embedded devices. Special folks.