What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

I want to say someone was doing that for the first gen Tacomas about a decade ago. But they were much more popular trucks than our Tundras when new.
Yep found em.

https://www.carid.com/sf-pl-mpn/pid...=224&submodels_names[0]=&real_model_names[0]=

 

Accidentally fried my HU trying to run a backup camera. I pinched the cable running from the rear under the side step panel so I cut it open and spliced the connections (red/green/copper shielding), I then put it all under 1 heat shrink (I think this where I ****** up). Plugged everything back in the HU, turned the key, and started smelling fried electronics . Luckily I'm still in my return window, but lessons learned..

 

We get no respect in the aftermarket community. Rodney Dangerfield feelings.

 

Yeah they're pretty good at responding and sent my first replacement out pretty quickly without much pushback or issues (after a couple of email volleys back and forth). Just make sure you have pics to send proactively if you ever have any issues to save back and forth emailing (that alone could take a few days). They are based in China so it takes them a while to get back as far as their business hours vs ours. I only just sent my message out Friday, so I doubt I'll hear anything until at least late tonight/early tomorrow morning, hopefully they just send out a fresh pair of Y6s since its a more tried and true model.

Update: Glad I just checked my spam folder. Got this email at around 2am. smh not sure how switching them will make any difference but I'll give it a try when I can get around to it.

 

Arent they LH and RH position dependent? Probably they are asking you to do this to troubleshoot your connections and prove if the bulb is bad.

 

No, with the Y6 at least, they're not. It's truly a drop-in affair. No set screws or rotation, and they're not directional.

If they sent a RHD bulb instead of the LHD bulbs normally sold here in the USA, that would be an issue.

 

Thought the LH bulb had a different pattern for the oncoming traffic?

 

The slope/cuttoff on LHD (left hand drive) bulbs is different from RHD (right hand drive) bulbs. LHD bulbs cutoff low on the left. RHD bulbs cutoff low on the right. But LHD pairs and RHD pairs are identical to one another, regardless whether it's the left bulb or right bulb. They're light bulbs, not tennis shoes.

 

So with a tow hitch package, you only need the bumper skin and the side internal supports but none of the rest. My eBay bumper arrived with the central support bar installed which had to be removed (highlighted in yellow below).


Fluid Filmed everything and installed the bumper. The new plastic was more chintzy than the old Toyota OEM plastic so I might switch back to it. The new bumper was missing the screw inserts for mounting the license plate lights and I had to reuse the 3 old round plastic caps that fit on the center area of the bumper.


Finished this morning....this took far too long, ugh .

 

Well that actually answers a question for me. The cutoff on the left side is mildly annoying for me, as the light goes farther in the central aspect of the beam pattern because it cuts off and falls short on the left.

 

All the talk about light cutoff reminds me, I still need to clock my colights straight. They've been up slanted to the passenger side since I installed em. Luckily my led fog lights do a great job filling in the gaps. I guess I should do that Thursday.

 

That's normal for LED lighting, and projectors in general. This is why proper aiming is crucial.

Generally speaking, projectors, and LEDs, you will absolutely blind the everliving shit out of oncoming drivers if you blast an unclipped/unshrouded LED beam at them. So there's a natural stepdown on these to help avoid that. This allows you, in left-hand driving places, to highlight more stuff to the right of your lane, while also reducing the amount of light you're shining into the opposing lane.

A lot of people fuck this up, either because they have their projectors out-of-rotation , or not installed properly - the beam should be horizontal to the ground, not high on the left, or you'll blind other people.

I'm posting two images here. One is what a standard mini-projector or projector install should look like - the beams are parallel to the ground, and the upper beam lines and lower beam lines are also paralell. You have one single step-up of light from left to right, and the beam is lower going into the line of oncoming traffic's site. I'm also marking the same picture with the general center (ish) of each bulb. Note the slant upward, see how it all comes together. When you align projectors, full-retrofit or these minis, you need to be aiming for this EXACT beam layout, for best results. And you need to use the videos linked to understand how high up the centerline is off the ground so, again, you don't blind people driving oncoming, or in front of you. Generally speaking, you can eyeball this on the road. If you're behind someone at a stop light, your headlight cutoff should be no higher than the top of their trunk edge. If you can see your light beam touching their headrest while they're in front of you, your LEDs/projectors are aimed too damn high.

​

 

Sorry for the delay, been a busy few days. I got around to pulling the intake off, removing a mouse nest, found a long lost socket, and taking a look at the wiring. I suppose I'm lucky, there actually are no wires chewed up, so that's a surprise. I suppose I need to replace my sensors and hope for the best. I've included pictures so you can see what I'm looking at. Yes, I plan on cleaning all this crap up, it's disgusting.

 

Started valve cover gaskets today. I say started because after finishing the passenger side I realized my pack of 16 bolt grommets was really a pack of 11. Driver side will be done once I source more grommets.

Anyway, first time doing this job on the 2uz. Did it on my gf's 5vz and that was a bit more complicated. Pretty pleased with how it looks underneath. Made sure to torque to spec using my little inch pound wrench and put some FIPG on the half moons&corners.

136k on the odometer

 

Please tell me that's a 10mm! That would be hilarious if so.

Thanks for the pics.

Purely out of curiousity. I see the knock sensor wires come together at this point on the right, and Toyota tapes them together. It looks like the pair of looms continue between the blue lines in the left panel of this pic, and under that plastic cover toward the back.

If you can easily check, I don't want to cause a bunch of grief or extra work, but can you see if those two looms ever come together and turn into a 4-pin connector? I contacted Dorman and they swear the part (I'd need to go look at which of the two) was valid for our 2005-2006 trucks, but I'm not buying it unless you can clearly tell where it plugs in toward the back of the head. I'd read that on IH8Mud or another Toyota forum, that there is a 4-pin somewhere near the back of the head. I'm wondering if that's where my issue is with signal. Although I will say, it looks like you have green corrosion on the red wire for your passenger side head, which would trigger a P0333 if true.

​

 

Looks great! Passenger side head is always cleaner. The back two cylinders on driver side are usually what look burnt to a crisp.

That said, when you do the half-moon plugs, there's two at the back of each head. You see all that caked up FIPG? DO NOT let it fall into the crankcase.

​

 

Man if I were you I'd go ahead and replaced the SAIS while you have it all apart.

 

From what I gather, the big issue is some foam seal that's either inside of the pump, or inside the switching valve? (the switching valve is the metal block between the SAI pump and starter, you can see it attached by foam, to the SAI pump)

That foam supposedly disintegrates over time, and gums up the pump or the switching valve, I don't remember which. If true, and I've seen it repeated a number of times (which still doesn't mean it's true! ), then this is another case of "shitty design", kinda like, I dunno, sticking a starter and a major emissions assembly up under the intake manifold, which the injectors and fuel rail are bolted to?!

 

It really is a choice made my the engineers that doesn't make a whole lot of sense. When I end up taking mine apart to do my SAIS I'll try to do all of the preventative maintenance while i'm in there. Mine is already whistling at start up.

BUT that'll come eventually. Going down my check list of other jobs I need to do on it first.

 

I'm just disappointed about this whole knock sensor sub-harness.

I wish I knew someone who knew these later-year 2UZ-FE with VVTi inside and out. I know they'd be able to answer whether the Y-harness for the knock sensors is replaceable. I'd really prefer not to splice the MF'er.

 

The HVAC blower motor in my 2002 was making some noise yesterday so I dropped it today and discovered a rodent had started building a nest in there, I cleaned that out and discovered the same thing under the filter in my air intake box, so I cleaned that out. I decided to check the air intake box on my 2007, same thing so I cleaned that out. I also checked the cabin air filter and I am happy to report the metal screen I installed over the one opening is keeping the critters out.

I need to come up with a screen that will prevent these fury fuckers from entering the intake air filter box.

 

Follow Up: I was out driving the truck off an on from 9A to about 5P today and the squeak is gone!

 

Awesome! My driver seat has a squeak, will have to try this.

 

Sorry, no pics. Wife seems to love taking a pic of everything except of the Tundra.

We were really tired today and very, very hot, and I forgot to ask her, but I know what the answer would have been. LOL

Today, mowed 8 yards, which is rather impressive considering the first yard we had to do minus the trailer, then come back and hook up the trailer (with zero turn) and go out again.

Learned something new:

Sometimes the wife cannot unlock the doors with the auto unlock button...I got to thinking "I'll bet this is a security feature to prevent the old 'coat hanger through the window trick' to unlock all the doors." Sure enough, it is. If I get out and lock my door with the auto lock button, the same cannot be used to unlock the doors until I get back in. What happens is I get out to go into a store but the wife wants to stay in the truck (and play on her phone ) then I want her to unlock my door when I get back....she can't.....not without reaching over for the manual unlock. OK, mystery solved! Probably in the handbook, maybe I'll try to read that later.

 

Thanks very helpful. That is basically what I see. Cutoff dropping to the left. Lines are parallel. I saw a tip here to line up the hashes on the side of the bulb line up with the line in the headlight casing.

How far away in traffic when you're at a stoplight? 6 feet or so?

 

I'm not familiar with the auto lock. Maybe it's just a DC thing? I know the alarm/keyless entry in the DC is somewhat different from the RC and AC trucks. But I don't know much about it.

 

I was thinking the same thing…. Hell I even questioned doing the starter as well…..lol

 

I may not be calling it the correct term. What we are using is the button that locks or unlocks all the doors at once. Driver's front and passenger front has these.

 

What is the squeak like? I get a really high pitch squeal/while sometimes when I'm driving mine. 2004 AC. It happens around 72 mph but can happen at lower speeds. Changing the speed helps. It's like a high pitch whine kind of like the old tube TVs when they were turning off. It sounds a lot like this: https://www.youtube.com/shorts/h9LsYMJwcTU

 

Basically half a car length to a full car length, really. 5-10ft. If you can see your cutoff at their headrest, your beams are too high. If it's bisecting their license plate, they're aimed too low. But really, even if you pull right up on their ass, it should still stay around the same height?

If you can get the driver side aimed correctly using this half-ass hack, all you need to do at that point is pull up to a wall and align the passenger beam so the upper/lower cuttofs are inline with each other.

Anyway, I just want to say: This is NOT the "correct" way to do things, but if you needed to adjust your lights in a pinch, because you don't have the time or resources around you - like a flat surface 10-20ft from a vertical wall, like me, all my surfaces are angled pretty much - then this is one way to make sure you're not blinding people oncoming or in front of you, and ballpark your lights in 90% of the way *IF* you're using projectors. Unless the person is in a lowrider, your headlight cutoff should never reach their headrest if you're behind a stock-height car, specifically. Trucks are obviously higher off the ground.