What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

Always swore I wouldn’t go down this path with any vehicles I own, now I feel like I’m a few poor life choices away from strapping traction boards to the side of my truck to go grocery shopping. RAM mount for my phone will go on the ashtray, and the FLF tray on the firewall is for lighting relays.

 

I polled all of my contacts at my local dealer and scoured all the EPCs online. 04445-0C010 is unfortunately discontinued. I will have to go aftermarket. I'm going to use EDELMANN 8946 from Rock Auto to do the reseal. I will have to find out what kind of bearings it needs too, since Toyota no longer supplies the bearings.

 

Let us know how successful you are and any issues you run into taking apart or putting the rack back together.

 

Changed my headlights over to the LED projects. Didn't know to buy the Y6 from COlight not the Y16. Couldn't get the dust boot back on.

Broke one blinker lens and snapped off the other one. Superglued back on.



Any advice on a permanent fix? I have tape on there now holding it together until a full cure. I thought Gorilla glue would expand too much.

 

Morimoto RetroRubber.

Lay a seal around the perimeter. Bake together in the oven. That’s the right way. In a pinch you can lay a bead of silicone around the perimeter where the lens locks in, and clamp it shut. It’ll hold.

Oh, and clear packing tape to seal the seam between the two pieces.

 

How do you like the way the 4600's and dobies ride? How much lift did you get?

 

Can replace. I believe new side markers were like $14-17 each shipped recently. Looks like RA has Eagle Eyes for $9.27 each.

https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog...bly,parking+/+turn+signal+lamp+assembly,11719

The replacement brand from carparts were ee too. Have also bought from Walmart and ebay and get ee, depo, or tyc.

 

Pics taken a few days ago and yesterday.

First pics are of us removing a fallen tree branch from the neighbor's yard. We also trimmed a bunch of low-hanging branches so the mow man wouldn't have to duck so much (we are the mow men ).





Here we are at the landfill, dumping that load.

 

Couple of parts on the way - big trip coming up and timing belt was getting close to due. Glad I checked because she’s ready

 

The 02 AC has a VERY annoying sqeaky sound coming from the front passenger seat. It only happens when I'm driving on certain roads and there is no one in that seat. I searched here, but couldn't find a thread with the info I needed. However, there was a that hit the nail on the head. Post 6 in that thread said to check the release bar underneath the seat that lets you adjust it back and forth. The next time I heard that squeak, I reached under the passenger seat and lightly touched that bar and the noise stopped!

So, today, I removed that seat and flipped it upside down on a table. The yellow arrows below show you where the release bar meets the spring clips that keep it in place in the seat track.

There were two spring clips holding the bar on each side. I pulled out the WD-40 Lithium Grease spray and lubed around the places where the spring clips contacted the bar first on the right side...

...and then on the left.

I worked the release bar a little by hand and things seemed to be smooth. I'll get the truck out tomorrow for a road test to confirm that this solved the problem, but I'm feeling pretty confident.

 

Took off my rear bumper today and will install a new one tomorrow. Lotsa rust....


I will Fluid Film like crazy before reinstall

 

Update** (2 months since replacing). Since my vision isn’t as great as when I was a youngster and I couldn’t be for certain if there were any hairline cracks in my transmission mount crossmember when I replaced all 4 bolts - I crawled under the truck today just to check that all 4 bolts were snug. I am happy to report that all 4 were not only there but as snug as could be.

 

Can you see cracks?

 

Hmm thanks for clarifying that. I'll absolutely check all those then

 

This happened to mine as well, i just replaced them both. I think they were only about $30 each. Mine were original and just loose to begin with, so removing the headlamp assembly made mine pop off.

Also, I ordered the Y16s too a while back--not sure if anyone else has or reported their experience with them here. But for me, the original pair i received had 1 bad one, Colight sent me a replacement that i finally put on this week and now the other has issues. I just asked if they can just send me Y6s instead of messing with the Y16s. If i recall, I think the Y16s have more power draw (155w or so?) Compared to Y6s and get very hot. In comparison to halogens i assume its not as large as a power draw since these are leds, however it seems like the y16s dont handle it well at all--theres even visble burnt markings

 

I had one on my Subaru do that this spring. Ate the engine, had to replace with a JDM.

The irony is, the pulleys that come with the kit, are japanese and identical to what come with the Asine kit, but the belt itself is the problem. It had about 50 K on it, no cracks, no signs of wear, just snapped one day.

 

I haven't had extensive time to fully judge so far, but for now they feel pretty similar to stock/oem ride and feel good--i haven't noticed a huge difference, but I'd say they've handle smaller bumps, speed bumps, etc a little better. They only give about an inch lift, combined with my camper shell the truck nearly looks level.

 

Half the fun of owning a Subaru is replacing the short block at least once.

 

Haven't done it yet, but I just bought some steering rack bushings from total chaos. Looking forward to this job.

 

Fairly straightforward. The center mount bolt can be a little bit of a PITA if you haven't touched it before.

 

Great to know. I haven't done this job before, but I tuned in to YouTube university before I bought the parts to see how difficult this would be.

 

My superglue is holding up so far (what I did in a pinch until I got better advice). I took the tape off after a few days for a full cure.

If I collect water in there, I might just drill a few small holes in the bottom so it can drain out. Might try the silicone bead around the edges too.

 

Thanks!! Those on Rock Auto will be about the same price as the Morimoto sealant. Haha. But then they'll be so clear compared to my headlights which are 21 years old. I did the headlight restoration last year with pretty good luck, but it's not as good as brand new.

Are the Eagle Eyes good?

 

Thanks for the advice. Just wish I had gotten the tip on the Y6's before I ordered. Ugh.

So far so good on mine after a few days. I'll keep an eye on them.

Is COLight pretty responsive? Do they make you ship things back or will they just send you another one? Did you hear back?

 

DEPO, TYC, Eagle Eyes are all a reputable brands, avoid "various manufacturers", you don't know what you'll get. And buy a pair that are CAPA certified for a buck or two more, they'll have an extra dropdown box in the listing at RockAuto. Those are generally more-premium and higher chance of lasting longer. Look for this dropdown, and choose CAPA from it. Careful to pick the correct cab, noting that standard/regular/access/extended cab are usually always interchangeable. DC are a totally diff't creature.

​

 

Done that too....

But in this case, it was just the heads that were damaged. Could have been fixed with a valve job but with 200K on that engine, I decided to just swap it with a JDM at that point.

 

I am looking for input.
I am trying to install this black replacement bumper i bought off eBay but it is giving me some difficulty. My old rusty bumper did not have these supports circled below.


The vertical supports circled in red below block install of the new bumper. These vertical supports appear to be bolted on and possibly welded on ...? Should I try to remove these vertical supports??


Below is the exploded view for my truck found on EPC.
Edit: The vertical supports are found in this exploded view for the tow hitch which my truck had as an option. I am unclear how to install

 

First long-distance trip today. Drove 230.0 miles round trip (drumroll) she got 18.85 mpg!

Mostly interstate with some city and narrow 1.5 lane road driving. Some hills to climb.

NARROWLY avoided a crash on the 1.5 lane road when a flat bed dually shot around a steep curve, goose-necked heavy duty trailer in tow. Completely blocked the road! I slammed onto the brakes. Just as I prepared to get out and discuss our options the driver started moving again! I threw her into reverse and backed up as far as I could, right into the ditch.

Trailer barely missed my front end. I was, um, somewhat upset.

He had no business on that narrow road and certainly not in the center of the road.

Anyway.....

Had a great time at the picnic. Won a prize getting lickstick on the wife while wearing a blindfold.

On way back, very nearly rear-ended a car on the interstate. Come around a curve and YIKES! Little car putting along at about 10 mph, flashers on, tailing a box truck who is straddling the right side solid line. I generally take pity on a guy trying to make it but had to report that........just too slow of a speed for the interstate.

Pic of Tundra at the picinc.

 

Yes. Got tired of polishing the 20 year old headlights so did full light fixture swap (less the third brake light and fogs). Parts were like $123 for the set and $150 including shipping.

https://www.tundras.com/threads/wha...-gen-tundra-today.2558/page-2412#post-3972134

 

I wish that there were some good aftermarket options that manufacture the headlamp and side marker lamps as one assembly instead of two.