What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

OK, so here's the info I've got, since I needed to look it up too.

Knock sensor connector for 2005-2006 with the 4.7L 2UZ-FE is 90980-11875.

I can't find an OEM pigtail, but Standard Motor Products (SMP, whom I generally trust as much as Dorman) does sell a pigtail here, as does Dorman here, as a kit with a new sensor and I found a company named Wells who sells a replacement sub-harness HERE, can you look at your wiring and see if the Wells unit appears compatible? I don't remember seeing a 4-pin place to plug in, but man would it solve my problems if there was...

Can you grab a couple of pics of your internals, just so I can see what I'm looking for? My snake came is, sadly, unable to really see wide-angle in the tight space down there.

 

I'd love it if something like that Wells kit would work, plug and play. I just don't want to splice/solder wires up under there.

But I'd also just love to find a mini-harness like this, even though it's $85, this harness is made for the 2007-2020 Tundras. Why couldn't Toyota make this for us 2005-2006 owners? Ugh.

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It was a bit of a pain, but wasn't too bad. A bunch of connectors. Disconnect the fuel lines over by the driver side fender and pull the fuel line through the harness. There is a 10mm bolt on the back of the intake by a bunch of wires, be sure to disconnect that too. You also don't need to remove the throttle body, coolant runs through it, so you can just unbolt it from the intake and pull it forward. I removed mine completely so it would be out of the way.

I intend on using some hardware cloth to wrap over the repaired wires and to try to cover the opening the mice use when my repair is complete, might as well make it hard for mice to return.

I wouldn't say there were minor traces of coolant in my valley. I've been losing some coolant for a while, and when I pulled the intake, I found my coolant leak.

Great, yeah, if you find that part number I'd definitely appreciate that.

 

Thanks for the number and links!

Yeah, I'm at work at the moment but I'll take some pictures later and post them up for you.

 

Thanks, I'll be curious to see the coolant leak source too. If it's crossover pipe above bank 2, or the rear crossover.

That's apparently a thing also, leaks into the valley will make the sensors short/go bad. I don't understand how it's possible with our donut-shaped sensors, but ...

I need to check the FSM again. I know the FSM shows you must clock/orient the sensors within a 10° angle of on-center, with the connectors pointing front-to-back, parallel to the framerails. I'm curious to see if they're using any kind of paste or compound between the bare metal on the sensor base and the bare metal of the block. Seems like that would help with sound/ping transmission.

 

Wells is now an NGK subsidiary. They are (maybe were is better descriptor) big in aftermarket ignition and sensors.

 

Nice! I love some NGK.

Unfortunately, I just took the Toyota p/n Wells is referencing for that part (82219-0C030) and ran it through the parts system using TPD's website and ... WOMP WOMP. It's for 2007-2016 trucks. Not the 1st time RockAuto has gotten it wrong. I'll hafta hit Wells' site and lookup against their parts tool, see if I can find another that's compatible.

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Well, Wells says it does fit, interestingly, for 2006-2010 but not 2005, 2003-2005 supposedly uses this Wells harness, according to Wells at least. Interestingly the latter of those two looks more like mine. Hmmm....

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According to the toyodiy site, looks like fitment for 82219-0C030 began with 11/2006 production (2nd gen) and only with the 1GR-FE (4.0 V6) engine. I also see fitment for 9/2004 and newer Tacoma. It might be one of those parts that will work, but something about it isn't ideal.

 

I think the latter one is correct for 03-06 1st gen Tundra, 1P2624, even though their site says up to 2005. Also according to the Wells site, that part is made in Japan.

 

Appreciate the extra eyes on both.

I guess it boils down to whether or not we can find a place the thing plugs into. @kentuckyMarksman may be able to say.

When I was scoping with my snake cam back up under the intake, I saw quite a few different harnesses. I saw the two flex looms that feed the knock sensors, but they disappear into the back, around the starter (1st pic, 2nd pic). I found the starter's trigger leads (maybe a 3-pin?) and a fat ass power lead (3rd pic). And I found another harness or two which I guess could be SAI related (4th, 5th pic are same connector I think, and 6th is something else).

I just can't see if the two knock sensor looms land at a 4-pin. If so, this is a no-splice, no-brainer. Just order the replacement harness and I'd probably order/replace both knock harnesses for sanity's sake.

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Early FGT - early style knock sensors and lots of room
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Late FGT - note new style knock sensors under diverted valve + additional wiring for pumps and valves. Very cramped. Hard to see knock sensors but they have to be oriented at the angles shown. Note also the harness protector bolted to the starter is larger to accomodate more wires.

 

Did this Saturday while I had my dash stripped apart. Replaced my burned out clear D light with one that has green tint. Dim enough that it’s not annoying at night, bright enough that I can make it out during the day.


Parking light for reference.

 

I too play the shuffle game; twice. Still need bulbs for L and N.

 

To that point, the FSM page on it, explaining sensor install angle/range, torque, sensor testing method. Sucks they pointed the harness to the back of the black vs. the front! If it was toward the front, maybe you wouldn't need to test sensor from the ECU harness.

I need to find a higher-res photo of exactly what you posted, but from a few angles. Or go watch a VVTi top-end teardown video today, I think.

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Further searching shows the Wells 1P2624 part to be good for the V6 1st gen Tundras, not the V8.

82219-0C010 and 82219-35020 are the two part numbers that Wells provides as a cross reference. In the Toyota catalog, those are for V6 applications only.

 

Yeah, I did the same as you, checking their reference data, but the V8 and V6 are both two-hemisphere engines so I was skeptical if the part would be the same. So I went to the EPC, and found they both use the exact same part number for the sensor. Unless it's purely that the engine harnesses are wildly different.

Taken from the EPC from my 2006 V8 (1st pic) and a random 2006 V6 (2nd pic) - sensor location is a bit different, orientation same, part number identical:

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Finally got my front end 4600s on dobinsons and new control arms/upper ball joints installed. Also just got a P0440 code pop up, assuming its just a gas cap. Ordered replacement from Ourisman Richmond (part # for 2000-2002 are 77300-53010).

 

Well the D light automatically drops down from a full brightness down to a dim setting whenever the headlights are turned on. I dunno how much it changes when an LED bulb is installed though.

 

I still need to do mine, I do have a few blue T5s left over from my HVAC led install that I could use.

 

The Ride-rite air bags did well towing close to 4000lbs at 15 psi.

Next time, I'll inflate them to 50 psi and see how well it handles.

 

Gas cap should be P0441, small leak. You're popping P0440, large leak. I'd be looking for a much larger leak, like a disconnected hose, either at the tank, in the engine bay, on the charcoal canister.

 

…or filler neck cracked.

 

same

 

This was a plain old incandescent bulb with a green tent over the lens that I installed. No LEDs in those lights, the last thing I want is to make those gear indicator lights brighter. While it was burned out, I could turn the dimmer all the way down on rural roads at night and have no lights in the cab other than the clock. Helped that all the backlights in my factory stereo burned out years ago too.

 

Huge win for me today. Scored a free power steering rack from a local Toyota Trucks group member on the book of faces. It does need some seals replaced, so I've got a rebuild kit coming. (Big win for me because I may have installed my eccentrics backwards on my driver's side LCA, which caused the steering rack boot to rip and dirt to destroy the seals.)
Looks like I should be able to reseal it in an afternoon, then have a solid rack for $70 plus whatever boots and tie rods cost.

 

Does Toyota make a rebuild kit? Got a P/N?

 

For my 2006 at least, here's the EPC page: https://toyota-usa.epc-data.com/tundra/uck40/3806/chassis/4505/04445A/

In the 1st pic, it looks like index # 04445A contains most of it (04445-0C010)

But I see in the 2nd pic, there are definitely more. If I were you, I'd plug your vin into that site and check yours, under Transmission and chassis > Front steering gear & link

 

I’m kind of surprised because when I first looked at this many years ago, there was only an internal seal on the passenger side that could be replaced and not the driver’s side.

Edit: Looks like there isn’t a gasket on the drivers side other than in the coupling area for the intermediate shaft. I’ll have to take a closer look to see how all this makes sense.