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2005 DC rear sliding window only clicks but doesn't move

Discussion in '1st Gen Tundras (2000-2006)' started by viducce, Mar 24, 2025.

  1. Mar 24, 2025 at 10:26 PM
    #1
    viducce

    viducce [OP] New Member

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    I'm cruising along happily and decided to lower my rear window and all it does is a clicking sound… any suggestions?
    2005 DC Limited
     
  2. Mar 25, 2025 at 6:38 AM
    #2
    shifty`

    shifty` Earth acid cleanses me, cleanses me clean

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    Is the clicking coming from the dash (i.e. relay), or is it coming from the back wall (i.e. potentially motor or linkage)?
     
  3. Mar 31, 2025 at 10:10 PM
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    viducce

    viducce [OP] New Member

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    Thanks for your tip, sadly, it is coming from the back wall. It appears to be a pain, plus $$$, if able to source those parts
     
  4. Apr 1, 2025 at 5:01 AM
    #4
    BubbaW

    BubbaW Blessed 2 B above Ground

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    While all this work requires certain skill level, reaching the part that fixes your problem does not require that much skill level if one does the work themselves. If one has to take this kind of work to a mechanic, then $$$ would definitely be a factor. Many of our parts indeed are becoming no longer available but your 05 rear window motor for instance should still be available, if that's the problem. If one can properly snap trim off, remove bolts, reaching back window parts should take less than an hour.

    If interested, videos and/or instructions can be provided.

    BackWindow.jpg
     
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  5. Apr 1, 2025 at 5:07 AM
    #5
    viducce

    viducce [OP] New Member

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    Interested in videos/instructions, will try to tackle it myself.
    Where is the best source, for example, the window motor?

    Thanks, your help is much appreciated.
     
  6. Apr 1, 2025 at 6:14 AM
    #6
    BubbaW

    BubbaW Blessed 2 B above Ground

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    Until I can find that video, this should get you started....

    As for those 2 clips holding back wall panel....
    Back Panel.jpg


    Once those knobs are out, there are 2 10mm bolts behind those knobs. Once those are removed, simply unsnap the back panel held in place by clips.

    back wall clips.jpg

    Then remove the metal panel to access regulator and motors.

    If you have not used the back window often, it may be a simple case of helping to lower window with palm of hand as someone else selects downward direction on switch. Before closing it all up when finished, sparingly apply some lubrication to regulator.
     
  7. Aug 11, 2025 at 8:35 PM
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    dirtnsmores

    dirtnsmores New Member

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    I'm having the same problem and occurred almost exactly around the same time as your truck. So it looks like replacing the motor is all done from the inside the truck right? I was worried I would have to get it from the outside but I have a camper.
     
  8. Aug 12, 2025 at 6:25 AM
    #8
    shifty`

    shifty` Earth acid cleanses me, cleanses me clean

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    See reply #4 from @BubbaW, note the left-hand side of that pic, the beige interior trim for the left rear pillar.

    That painted red metal is the back wall of the truck, behind the plastic panel. Remove seats. Remove panel clips and panel as shown.
     
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  9. Aug 12, 2025 at 8:28 AM
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    dirtnsmores

    dirtnsmores New Member

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    Easy enough. Adding to my list of small things to do on this truck.
     
  10. Aug 12, 2025 at 9:01 AM
    #10
    shifty`

    shifty` Earth acid cleanses me, cleanses me clean

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    Generically speaking, on window motors at least...

    Just know, a lot of window motors are typically 3-wire. One wire is common/ground. The other two wires are to spin the motor CW/CCW depending on which wire gets voltage.

    Sometimes the motors are 4-wire, where you have a single ground, and a constant power feed inbound, and the other two wires are to spin the motor CW/CCW with that power feed.

    Regardless which of the two, those two CW/CCW wires will be linked to a relay, somehow, which is then linked to the dash switch or door switch, depending on the motor type.

    In either of these cases, you can typically take a basic 9V battery, and if you know which is ground, and which is either the CCW or CW wire, you can jumper your battery to ground/CW or ground/CCW and test to see if the motor spins, clicks, does anything. It can give you evidence of the problem, if the motor spins, you know the problem is upstream. Depending on the wire connector for the motor, if popping the OEM wiring off exposes pins on the motor, you can use alligator clips to clip to the correct pins to test quickly, without depinning anything.

    I would need to look at the wiring for the motor behind the rear door plate to see how many wires, or look at the EWD to figure out what the wiring is.

    I swear I've heard DC owners say they hear a click in the dash when the truck is not running, and they tap the rear window rolldown button. That would make sense if so, and could be a way to understand if the relay is being engaged/working.
     
  11. Aug 12, 2025 at 12:50 PM
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    BubbaW

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    On the 05-06, there is a Back Window Relay up front behind the Cab fuse panel on the Integration Relay Panel. It is energized when you turn key to ON(IgnOn) along with other relays. The only click one would hear as far as Back Window would be on back wall when selecting Up/Down on Back Window switch which energizes the Back Window Control Relay.

    @dirtnsmores , with Ignition in ON position, when you select UP on Back Window switch, do you hear the Back Window Control Relay energizing or possibly hear a hum noise of motor at least trying ?
    If not, have you checked the 30A Pwr No. 5 fuse on Cab fuse panel.

    05 Back Window.jpg


    05 Integration Relay.jpg
     
    Last edited: Aug 12, 2025
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  12. Aug 12, 2025 at 1:34 PM
    #12
    shifty`

    shifty` Earth acid cleanses me, cleanses me clean

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    And looks like they're using a 3-wire on the motor, common is white/black stripe, green is down, red is up, and they've got a solid black for the limiter switch (LS1) which I assume is the part that makes it stop at halfway?

    So, in theory, attach a battery to (-) to white/blk stripe on pin 4, and (+) to green on pin 1, and if the window doesn't roll down, motor is shot? And if it does roll down, problem is upstream, switch (+) to the red wire on pin 2 to roll it up, and keep hunting.
     
  13. Aug 13, 2025 at 11:18 AM
    #13
    BossGoose

    BossGoose New Member

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    My rear window also randomly stopped one day, but I would still hear the clicking. I thought the motor was done so I went to a junkyard and grabbed another one off of a truck there. What happened in my case however is when I went to remove the motor, the moment I undid the bolts and pulled it out, the whole arm assembly jerked, almost as if it was bound. I thought that was strange so I reinserted the motor and it all worked again, still to this day.

    It may be worth a shot to remove the motor and inspect the brushes that contact the motor to spin it. After I grabbed a new motor, I learned of some fixes on here where the contact brushes had worn out. I bought some new ones to replace.
    upload_2025-8-13_13-11-24.pngThese little things.

    upload_2025-8-13_13-11-55.png They sit here on and contact the copper.

    I thought mine would be worn down but they were still alright so I knew electricity was contacting the motor.

    I don't know what was going on in my motor's case, the whole circumstance was strange.
     

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