Trying to get to the PCV valve on a 2013 tundra 4.6 L

https://youtube.com/shorts/sTdfalaET1M?si=2VTdYMV2i5hKkz4k

 

I believe the 4.6l has the valve more horizontal and the 5.7l has it more diagonal making it easier to access and remove. I have the 4.6l too with the valve on the shelf waiting to go in lol

 

I'm thinking I have to take off the intake manifold to get to the PCV in the 4.6L.

Can someone point me to a good video of how to do that?
Or a manual online?

Thanks!

 

Trying to help. That piece of foam on your left by the coolant hose. Move that foam out of there and then get a long
extension with a wobbly ends and try it from that side. From the vid it would seem there's plenty of room.
Might even need a smaller diameter extension like 1/4 with a 3/8ths conversion on there.
Hope that helps

 

I've got a 5.7 so no personal experience with the 4.6 location but it looks like if you put a swivel attachment directly on the socket you should be able to get an extension on there. As others mentioned I ripped the insulation surrounding the valve out for more access.

 

Thanks, I think the problem was that the socket was hitting the metal part on the right which is, on the 4.6 L, closer than on the 5.7 so there’s less room to get the socket in there because of that thing on the right made a metal whatever that is. But I got a bunch of different sockets of all different types on the way to try them out before I open up the intake.

 

I wonder if a thin-wall socket that is also shorter than the socket you have already tried, will work for you? And yes, the 5.7L PCV valve is mounted vertically, so there is enough room around it to tread and pull it right up/down.

I replaced the one in my Tundra (5.7L engine) yesterday. By the way, lubricate the treads and O-Ring of the new PCV valve lightly with oil, make sure that you don't over-tighten it. It's made of plastic, and it can break. Since the one on my trucks engine points straight up, it was easy for me to install the new PCV valve as I started it on the threads by rotating the socket's extension "by feel" ...with my hands, to make sure that the threads aligned properly. I continued rotating the extension until it the valve was set in place, and then used the ratchet to barely snug it in place.

The problem you will probably encounter with the new PCV valve is trying to align the first threads. Maybe a piece of thin and strong/transparent rubber or nylon hose you can use as follows: insert the top (green color) top of the valve into one end of the hose to bring the halve down and start threading it in?

 

Thanks, good ideas. I did order every type of socket. But yes, you are correct, getting it threaded will be a challenge, especially with the foam insulation in place. And for some reason I don't want to rip out that insulation. Am I being weird about that? Is it needed?

Even with that insulation out, it may be very hard to get that threaded. Your hose idea is good. But all these problems are leading me to want to just take off the intake manifold and do it that way. Seems like it is just a 2 hour job and I can do that some evening, and then I'll know how to do that. But I would have to buy 2 intake manifold gaskets.

But right now my backup car, an Elantra, is not running, so I don't want to mess with the Tundra.

Interestingly, the Elantra problem is PCV related:

https://youtube.com/shorts/L2BHGxNgpvA?si=iMTnmZaU1lgJ_iYe

 

I'd 1000% rip out the insulation if I could avoid removing the intake.

 

OK but even when taking out the insulation I'm not sure I can do it because of the metal piece to the right which is blocking the socket from going in straight or coming out straight.

I'm really hoping someone with a 4.6 that has done this will be able to tell us if it can be done.

 

Removing that intake could open a whole new problem. Looks like a straight forward fix that could cause serious
problems getting it all back together properly. Get that foam outta there and don't worry about it.

 

Ive had to remove my intake manifold before to fix the knock sensor wire, its not super hard if you have to

 

Thanks! I have seen videos and it doesn't look bad. But one guy made a comment indicating it was. But I can't imagine it is worse than trying to get to that bugger in this 4.6L the way it is. Sometimes taking time, even a couple of hours, to remove something in the way, is easier to me, because it is way less frustrating. That's how I feel about this. But I did order lots of different sockets so I'm going to try to get it out with those before removing the intake manifold.

I just have to wait till I get my backup car running again. Waiting for parts.

 

YES. I just did the PCV valve yesterday on my 2015 5.7 liter. Used a piece of clear tubing (that I keep on hand for spark plug related work) to gingerly start the plastic threads into the aluminum head (or is it the valve cover?) when installing the new valve.

I don't have a magical solution for getting a 22mm socket onto the valve.

 

I was looking at the video you posted, and thought about the following: how about using a ratcheting/swivel (long-handle) wrench, at least to get it out of there? remember that it hardly takes any effort to to thread/unthread the PCV valve. So getting it out should be easy enough. But as I mentioned before, you could use a tube that has the right internal diameter to fit and hold the new PCV valve while you gently thread it in after lubricating the threads. Whatever you do, don't over-torque it because it will break, and this in turn would create a bigger problem for you.

you will also notice that the insulating foam is full of dust and grime, so what I did was to blow all the dust off using compressed air and a nozzle, plus a small brush to dislodge the rest... all before pulling the old valve out (avoid dropping dust and trash into the threads and hole).

This is the kind of wrench I referred to above:

$18 Piutouyar 24mm Flex-Head Ratcheting Wrench, Professional Metric Ratchet Wrench Combination Wrench Box Ended Spanner Tool for Projects Repair(5° Movement and 72 Teeth 12 Point, CR-V)

https://www.amazon.com/Piutouyar-Flex-Head-Ratcheting-Professional-Combination/dp/B0CK2JVDTC?crid=3QRAJTGGJXUZG&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.3_6SHeA1Q1cV2vLbDCbuXY0foPt-p34DhoNBRCW0nGSaP_APzv-xKrdw3oSeFidVwI6a_0zU7Tb4wLh3zHWV1hJSvNCTHOFNPQBbFLKyc6KhdZ_MBCJu1mpHAuQr0UDr50zn-qqQHmYGn18OhO36OZVVGxegTEGhpfwSyof9xRAugP41JuLEpnLsk4Ly5jCVrxHm200UjAyXa3uoy7HVOy4FoUczyMKKDwHfo2wGX_sSqDBTSjZYea5cKFyBMQ4F3wKcFM1FN5ij_yI9wBPuy_JBIMriiJGKoQNoXdvG-wQ.YISn6j7WqYV7l_0knLrFJHS18ECechMgoc_vwtCZ2_U&dib_tag=se&keywords=24mm+swivel+ratcheting+wrench&qid=1754636083&sprefix=24mm+sweevel+ratcheting+wrench%2Caps%2C303&sr=8-8&th=1

 

I really like these ideas and will try it! Thank you for your help!

 

@bradleydavidgood i was able to get the valve out today on my 2011 4.6L. I used an assortment of long needle nose pliers to pluck the foam away from around the valve, then I used a 3/8” ratchet with 1’ locking extension with a swivel and a 7/8” crows foot. I used a pry bar to hold the crows foot in place and seated on the hex while I turned the ratchet. I was able to turn it 1/8” or so at a time. I was able to thread the new one in by hand without using tubing. Took me about 2 hours. Glad I was able to replace it because the ball inside was not moving! Hope you’re able to get it done!

 

I removed this bracket held down with two 10mm bolts, unclipped the MAF from it, and took off the air injection hose on the bottom side for more working room as well

 

That's so great! Thank you for doing that and explaining so well and all the great pics! I like how you picked at the insulation like that and only took out what was necessary. I was not wanting to pull it all out so this method looks good to me and I'll try it.

How did you tighten the new one? You said threaded by hand. Does that mean your fingers were on the PVC valve, or does that mean some tool was on the PCV valve and your fingers turned the tool?

And how was it final tightened?

Thanks!

 

I was able stick my hand down there holding the PCV valve to thread it in by hand until the O-ring made contact and there was too much resistance, then I used the crows foot method that I used to remove it, to tighten it all the way until it lightly seated. Take your time and have some patience using the crows foot.

 

Thanks! I have patience

 

Great job great method, great problem solving! I need a set of long pliers now. Going to Amazon...

 

That’s where I bought mine from!
I did try using some clear tubing that fit over the valve to help thread it in, but due to the angle of the valve, the tubing just twisted itself while the valve stayed still lol. I do have pretty small hands so that made it easy to get my hand in there

 

Yea the tubing is always stored curled up so it's hard to find any straight tubing. Maybe if you heat it while stretching it, like with a heat gun and two people??

Not small hands here

 

My problem wasn’t the tubing being curled, but rather not being rigid enough, it twisted like a I was wringing out a towel, collapsing on itself lol. Maybe if I jammed a whole bunch of paper towels in there and packed it tight to help it keep its shape it might have worked, just glad I was able to get my raccoon hands down there haha!

 

Oh I see!

 

Success!! Thanks for all the help.

https://youtube.com/shorts/wvyBkRCSFZg?si=BLnzM43EoW_B2HL4

 

Nice work!