DIY: Front Coilover Install - Completed with Toytec Radflo 2.5

Below is the install as completed on my 2012 5.7L Rock Warrior Crew Max. Should be the exact same process for all 2007+ Tundras.

Toytec Boss/Radflo 2.5" Coilovers are sold by Toytec Lifts: http://toyteclifts.3dcartstores.com/6CT00200-P--RadfloToytec-25-Coilovers-07Tundra_p_1705.html

Tools Required:

• Socket Wrench
• Wrench
  
• Plyers
• Hammer
• Pin Punch

Tool info from @Djone27
19mm, 22mm, and 24mm sockets
14mm and 17mm ratcheting wrenches
1/2" torque wrench
1/2" ratchet
Couple GOOD 1/2" extensions (broke 2 Amazon grade wobble extensions)
Jack
1 or 2 jack stands
Bonus: 1/2" impact gun

Installation Instructions:

1. Jack the front end up and secure the vehicle on suitable large jack stands from the frame on both sides.
2. Remove the front skid plate from vehicle.
3. Remove both front wheels/tires.
4. Remove the sway bar links from the lower control arm on both sides.
5. Remove the outer tie rod ends at the steering knuckle on both sides. Be careful not to damage the dust boots!
6. Remove the lower shock nut and bolt on both sides.
7. Remove the 2 lower ball joint mount bolts and separate the ball joint from the spindle.
8. Remove the top 4 nuts holding the coilover to the shock tower.
9. Being careful not to overextend and pull apart the inner CV Axle joint, move the spindle/hub assembly out of the way and remove the coilover from the vehicle
10. Position the new coilover onto the vehicle, sliding the top into the shock tower first. Install the top three nuts which hold the coilover to the shock tower finger tight. Install the lower shock bolt and nut. You may need to pry down on the upper control arm in order to get the lower shock bolt installed. Torque upper nuts and lower bolt/nut to manufacture specs. We do recommend torquing the lower shock bolt while the weight of the vehicle is on the ground to allow the bushing to operate and wear properly.
11. Repeat steps 7-10 for opposite side of the vehicle.
12. Reinstall the lower ball joint bolts, tie rod ends, and sway bar links. If your kit came with a front diff drop kit, now is a good time to install it. Reinstall the wheels/tires and skid plate. Torque all nuts and bolts to manufacturer specs.
13. Recheck the torque of all bolts/nuts which have been taken apart during the installation of this lift after 15 miles, and periodically thereafter.

Here is the timelaps of the install:

https://youtu.be/_ZcFCKDazs4

 

He's had them.

 

Leaf spring change is easy.

 

Yea i have had them on for a while now.

 

No i did not. You can see me using my knee to push down to get the old coilover out. If you don't loosen them then you dont need to get an alignment as long as the height is roughly the same. If you were stock going to a lift then either way you would have to get an alignment.

 

Yea PM me so we can exchange numbers and you can text me for quick answers.

 

Took some video of the Toytec Radflo 2.5" Coilovers in action.

https://youtu.be/9L-Vz8z0bj0

https://youtu.be/8-SkK__EUKE

https://youtu.be/IsPYfDzq96Q

 

Toytec Radflo 2.5 front coil overs definitely improved the ride from stock. I haven't had my truck from completely stock though. Bought it with a front level spacer. Best suspension I've had is the Toytec Radflo.

 

Well crap, didn't know i didn't complete this writeup. Will have to add the additional information soon.

Took me 31 seconds according to the video. haha. I would block out about 4 hours to get it completed. Its not that tough just to replace the coilover but there are things that can frustrate you and slow you down. Bolts don't like to come out sometimes.

 

I trimmed the front plastic and skid plate for the previous lift I had. I did not do the cab mount chop.

 

Was wondering if that would make it there........I provided the info to Toytec and they reached out to Radflo with further discussions to determine the cause. It isn't this way for all Tundras. Seams that the 14+ don't need to do any trimming.

 

The verbiage on the Toytec website states "*May require minor grinding on front lower control arm."
The reason for this is that the nice beefy lower shock mount diameter is slightly larger than some other shocks out there. During installation there is minor contact with what i will call a tab in the coilover cutout on the lower control arm. This contact makes it hard to get the shock into place with the suspension at full droop. After installation there is a small gap and no metal to metal contact at full droop or at resting height that i could see. I ground off the tab on the passenger side for ease of installation and it helped out a lot.


Here is a picture of the Radflo 2.5 Coilover installed before trimming the tab on the lower control arm. The metal isn't touching after installation but it is very close.



This is the Toytec Boss 2.0 Coilover installed to show that the gap to that tab is greater than with the Radflo 2.5.



The red line here shows where to trim the lower control arm tab. Not much material needs to be taken off.



Here is a progress pic of grinding that tab off with a dremmel. I went a further with the grinding after taking this pic. Then painted it to avoid rust.

 

I always lift from the lower control arm and then install the tall jacks where you show the blue circles then lower the jack for full suspension droop. I have never jacked up from the red circle area.

 

Found this online