Chevy 20" rims on my Tundra

My goal is to make my truck a city sled using a lighter a smaller wheel setup. I did the same with my 2006 Tacoma in the past and it performed better in city driving with more pep and better City gas mileage.
Have seen some posts on this subject, used Chevy rims are as common as dirt and used prices reflect this abundance. I got a set of Siera 1500 stock 20" alloy rims, that are the "Texas Edition" without center caps and lugs for $200 locally. I have a set of center caps on order for cheap too. The pattern is the same as Toyota 139.7 or 5.5", I'm still not absolutely sure about the chevy offset though. Purchased a 1.5" spacer set for the chevy rim and bolted it up with shoulder or "bump" bolts. Everything looks and clears just fine but I over did it with a 265/50 R20 tire, sits too wide and tire is a larger diameter, I want to go down not up! going to check out some narrower tires and I ordered 1" Chevy spacers that come with a 108mm bore, On the right tire (first top picture) is I assume the stock Toyota rim and tire size 245/70/16 and that does not rub or bump anything. Tire 2 Chevy wheel seems to stick out too far outside of the fender but didn't rub riding around the block, I'll get this figured out soon....

Stephen

 

Oh you need some Bilstein 5100's to level the truck. I'm running 275/55 20's






Damn I need to power wash the cement again

 

Why fuck around with Chevy wheels and spacers when you can get 16" and 17" alloy Toyota wheels all day long for cheap? Check CL and FB marketplace locally.

 

It's something different, I can dig it. If you had flares it would fit pretty good. How's the rub?

 

bmf4069,

there is no rubbing with the 20” rim and 265/50 tire. I’m going to a smaller height tire and dropping the truck 2” in front and 3 in the back so the giant wheel wells will work for me, most folks are going in the opposite direction to 33s and bigger. This truck has lots of flexibility and room to do pretty much whatever you want to do

Stephen

 

Stock Chevy wheels are like 40 lbs. If you wanted lighter you definitely don't want those. You need a 16 or 17 inch wheel in the 19 lb range and some lightweight narrow highway tires

 

Your best bet, if you REALLY wanna keep those, is bust the tire and wheel down and take the wheel to a machine shop with a big lathe or a mill that has some know-how and let them machine the center bore of the wheel out to match the Toyota center hub. This will allow you to mount that wheel up like any standard hub centric wheel on the hub like normal. This will eliminate the spacer and move the wheel further inward where its supposed to be.
I did this in the late 90s with an isuzu wheel, i put this wheel on my 1989 pickup with a set of mud tires because at the time i though that was a great looking wheel. I machined the center bore out and mounted them up just like a standard Toyota wheel.

 

Badass03taco,

Can bolt up Chevy rims now with the step bolts I already have or buy 1” Chevy spacer with 108mm bore, a set of 4 is $64 so the wheel will see its 14mm lugs and studs. Tundra hub will see a 108mm bore and 12mm lugs for its studs. The Chevy rim’s back spacing is 6” the Toyota rim is I believe 4.5” so spacers will be required anyways

Stephen

 

er......
The chevrolet wheel has much smaller center bore than Toyota, its like 78mm hub bore i believe.
The toyota like you have is a 106.1mm bore
If you have the center bore of the wheel machined out you can get rid of the spacers all together and mount the wheel against the hub face, hubcentric to center the wheel perfectly and help take the weight and load off the studs, like it was designed. With your stepped lug nuts you can run the 12mm OEM toyota studs and fill the 14mm chevrolet hole

Since your wheel and tire is poking out, i would try to ditch the adaptors and wheel spacers all together. This proves to be a problem since the chevrolet wheel has the small center bore that wont fit over your 106.1mm bore. Easy fix, machine the center of the wheel out, so the wheel sits hubcentric and all the way against the hub face. No spacer, no pokey-outtey.

 

Badasa03taco,

Should have mentioned that my new LRR tire set is Kinergy ION EVOs 235/50r20 (narrow)
I have no access to a machine shop and they are ridiculously expensive here. The 1” spacers are on order, if they don’t work out there is a uTube video of using a router with 3/8” carbide bit “redneck” solution possible although risky at best

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bsEYk1sJc4g

Stephen

 

What is the total weight front tire and rim (new), and total weight rear tire and rim (stock)?

 

Why do you want to risk your life and the lives of others with this sketchy shit?

 

ATBAV8,

Shade tree machining, I agree, buying another rim would be a more sensible method for sure to get newer look rims on my rig. Did get the Chevy rims mounted on my Tundra today, TRD cap stickers are on order. Must say the ride improved quite a bit, more torque is available (smaller overall outside wheel diameter at 28.7 inches), braking and handling was noticeably improved! amazing what a new set of tires can do. For the offset difference I used a 1" Chevy wheel spacer kit that comes with 108mm bore and 14 x 1.5mm studs, nuts. The new 245/45R20 tires (26 lbs) do not stick out like the 265s but the Chevy "Texas Edition" rims alone are heavy at 33lbs ea. Plan to replace the shocks and redo the brakes + wheel alignment for even more improvement + I don't want to waste these new tires with bad old shocks, the lowering kit hasn't arrived yet.
I realize that some folks think I'm nuts for doing this "your going the wrong way cowboy, bigger is better" but I have unique needs/desires, the truck is a second car to use (that wifey can drive) for Home depot runs for supplies to work on a cabin I'm building, concrete, 2x4s and sheet rock transport poorly in my Honda Clarity....

Stephen

 

I think it’ll prob look good. I’ve always been into sport trucks. As long as it’s 2WD, I say “go for it!”

 

shifty`,

It is 2WD and thank you for your support!

Stephen

 

@455h0le_dachshund and I think @assassin10000 can give you some good input on lowering. I know a few members have used SOS products to drop their truck. If I had a 2WD, I’d be tempted to bag it, just go whole hog. I think the lines on these 1st gens really make for the perfect sport truck, but sadly, there’s not much in the aftermarket to achieve it.

 

There used to be a kit to bag the front. But the link I have book marked no longer works. Looks like airbagit.com went under.

 

Just need a universal bag to replace the front spring and an air ride controller/pump/tank.





@Shifty' I have the SOS 2" front kit and a lowering shackle for the rear in my parts pile.

 

Shifty',

How did the SOS kit work out? did it affect the ride greatly? I just ordered the SOS lowering kit, can return if you want to sell your kit.

Stephen

 

That's my to be installed pile.

Sos performance is who makes it.


Ride will be like stock but closer to the ground.

 

Talk to Assassin and Assdog. My truck is lifted. But I know those guys (and a couple of other people who post rarely) who are running it.

I do my best to keep up with who has what around here. Sometimes that shit sticks. Other times it really, really doesn't

But I know I got it right, those two have lowered trucks - but I don't.

 

Yeah the kit came with LCAs, UCAs spindles, and bags IIRC

 

Do it to it!
And don't forget the pics.

 

455h0le_dachshund,

Been looking online forever and I'm burned out! The SOS and others lowering kits only work with Tokico and Bilstein shocks only! the coil shoulders have a groove in the Bilstein's and a shoulder edge on the Tokico's. To lower 1st gen Tundra's, shorter springs (now not available) or the welded on shoulders have to be cut off and Coil over Sleeves have to be installed. I'm waiting for the KYB 349010 Excel G's to arrive, if they fit will cut/weld sleeves to the fronts if they don't I'll give up on the KYB's, return them all and go with Bilstein yellows. To lower the stock Bilstein front perch, an additional groove has to be cut in the shock body 1" lower in the body of the shock and using the Bilstein locking ring and included perch's is my other option.
Like the model T, Gen one Tundra aftermarket parts are a thing of the past!

Stephen

 

You're overthinking it.
Check out my build thread.
I just swapped my 4600's for 5100's using my SOS drop kit.

https://www.tundras.com/threads/the...build-or-lowered-2wd-race-truck.153687/page-6

 

455h0le_dachshund,

I see your setup, niiiiice! flipping the axel on top of the springs lowers 3 or 4 inches? Ordered the flip kit from Rough stuff for $100 with optional shock mount included.

Stephen

https://www.ruffstuffspecialties.co...JuoAymze1PlB8-M1L7A09eV_nKm8ebjL4vlPbrDWcDbbw

Stephen

"
Description
Toyota 8" U-Bolt Flip Kit (Rear) (I ordered 10" u-bolts)

This kit was designed for a Toyota rear axle housing tube measuring 3" O.D. which is found in the back of 86-95 4wd pickups and 4runners. Also Fits 00-06 Tundra.

• U-Bolt plates measure 3/8" thick and will fit up to a 2 1/2" wide spring.
• Heavy duty U-Bolts with 5" inches of rolled threads for extra strength.
• Comes with (8) Tallnuts and (8) Hardened U-bolt Washers.

You will receive:

• 4 - Grade 8 U-bolts are 3" wide 5/8" thick and 10" tall with hardware
• 2 - U-bolt plates for 2.5" wide springs"

 

You're going to have to return that most likely. It's for the wrong truck and the wrong axle. It said 8 and ours is 8.4.
Also has no bumpstops and no axle cradle.

If I were you, I'd just order the SOS kit.
I've modified mine to be stiffer.


The SOS kit flips the axle for 3.5", but they offer the 1/2" block, that I now have for the full 4" drop in the rear.

https://sosperformance.com/products/tundra-racing-lowering-kit-fits-2000-2006-tundra

This is what I have with the lowering block and the rear sway bar end links. I used Bilstein 5100's and some lower mileage used coil springs from a double cab in the front. For the rear I also used 5100's, but used my other trucks lower mileage 4wd springs with Wheelers Offroad add-a-leafs.

I also recommend you order the Bilsteins separately from somewhere cheaper. Perhaps wheelersoffroad.com or firstgenoffroad.com or toytec or one of the vendors on this forum

 

Guy's,

My center cap TRD stickers came in, they aren't the best quality but they look better than the bow-tie Chevy center caps. The gold bow tie doesn't really look too bad, so is this the right way to go?

Stephen

 

I've seen worse, the stickers help.

 

That reminds me, I need to measure mine and order some black ones.

Where did you order from?