Howdy! Come watch me polish a turd.

I don’t flirt with danger, I spike its drink and rip its pants off.

 

Boiling coolant was from being half a gallon short on coolant after getting my TB replaced. The heat on this thing is no joke.

 

TL;DR Truck overheated after shop replaced TB and now I have a ton of codes and a cracked radiator.

Alright, so the truck started overheating and I thought it was just low on coolant. Tried to drive it to work and it started going over the red. Pulled over, let it cool, put a gallon of coolant in it. Limped it back home a 1/4 mile at a time stopping to let it cool for 20-30 min when it got toward the red. Put another gallon of coolant in it when it was about half way home and it all poured out of the top of the radiator beneath the plastic cap on top. Finally got it home without it going into the red for more than a minute or so and left it parked. Ordered a Denso rad from Rock Auto that's sitting in the garage. Last night, my Ultragauge came in and I just ran the codes. Is this thing trashed? P030X is a cylinder misfire so I have 3.

 

So that's random misfire (P0300), and misfire on bank 1 cylinders #5 and #7 (the rear two), and bank 2 cylinder #6 (2nd to last).

The fact it's on two banks, driver (1) and passenger (2) could very well suggest this has nothing to do with head gasket.

 

That p0117 is interesting. It's the coolant temp sensor circuit. That's not insignificant. The p0051 is 02 sensor something.

 

I’d check the thermostat as well. Maybe it’s stuck closed and not circulating coolant?

 

Not sure if this helps, but ... https://www.tundras.com/threads/temp-sensor.135825/#post-3439684

 

It’s a new Toyota part, how likely is that to be the case?

This is all very encouraging, I appreciate it gents. When I finally have some time to replace the rad, I’ll definitely update.

 

Nevermind if it’s new. I thought you still had the methhead special.

 

Nah I had the TB done and had him replace every part he had to remove more or less with new Toyota parts

 

Very true due to the fact "If the ECM detects the DTC ”P0115, P0117 or P0118”, it operates the fail−safe function".

"Once the ECM detects a signal voltage that’s lower than the normal operating range of the sensor, the OBD code P0117 registers in your vehicle’s memory. The low signal that the PCM detects from the ECT sensor can mean that the engine coolant is excessively hot."

Can't speak to why the ECM on flags only 3 cylinder mis-fires when in fail-safe mode but I would at least troubleshoot the ECT issue first by following the troubleshooting procedure in the 05-06 FSM starting at DI-540. Of course to do that, one would have to have a scan tool that reads live data.

 

Excellent information, thank you. Can the coolant get hot enough to disable or damage the temp sensor? The scenario surrounding this was limping the truck home while it was overheating.

 

I don't think high temps will fuck it up. I would still replace it though, just to make sure you have a good base line. But, with the ecu throwing a code and the guage showing high you definitely have a problem with high temps.

 

I have had boiling coolant in the reservoir the last few times I drove it, so that’s not a surprise. I’ll try to carve out a few hours to do the rad and check the orientation of the thermostat while the coolant is out of it.
The guy that did the work does like 4 toyota timing belts a week and is very reasonable, so if there’s no permanent damage I’m pretty sure we can figure something out

 

I had this with my white dog turd that the guy said was good to go but we were speaking via translator. You probably had an airlock within the system because the system wasn't bled correctly. As for your tech, they can still mess up if they rush.

Get one of those coolant burping funnels and jack the front end up and burp the entire system. I thought mine was good until I jacked up the drivers side so the radiator cap was the highest point and mannually burped it. Make sure heat comes out because mine wasn't pumping any heat.

 

Should be able to get to the rad today so we shall see what we see. Thanks for the tips. My guy is a little notorious for going fast so it could be he missed something.

 

All right I got the new radiator installed and everything‘s all hooked up. I let it sit for about 10 minutes at idle and it got up to operating temperature with the radiator cap off and a little bit of bubbles came out, but that was it. I then put it up on the ramps and as soon as the vehicle was inclined, it went from 180° to about 220° Within a few minutes and then coolant started fountaining out of the top of the radiator. Heat is not very hot, but I checked the hoses that run along the firewall and both sides are hot and the return line is warm.

 

Seems like every time I change the angle of the vehicle the temp starts to spike. Also my radiator cap fucked off into the engine bay and is nowhere to be found.

 

You did run the heater full blast while up on ramps? Any heat coming out of it? If it’s not, the fluid isn’t circulating properly.

 

If you have one, the skid plate loves items like that.

 

@Nimitz_ Just so you know: You can't polish a turd...but you can roll it in glitter! (P.S. Good looking truck.)

 

Yeah took a long time but it finally kicked in. It’s still overheating randomly but I can’t do much with it until I get a damn rad cap for it.

 

I don’t. I’m completely baffled. It needed a new one, but the crooks at the dealership by me want $35 for one.

 

https://youtu.be/yiJ9fy1qSFI?feature=shared

 

Check on the crossmember between it and the oil pan.

 

Just get a dorman one for $12 bucks. Also one thing you can do, put only the drivers side up so the radiator cap is at the highest point. The heater core needs to be burped as I had the same things; a few bubbles than it overheated just sitting there.

 

I had my cap lose to drain the coolant to pull the intake and accidentally knocked the cap off. At first could not find it. It was laying upside down on the left frame rail. Look there.

 

I lost a socket down into plastic corners of the bumper, good chance it could have ended up there. Fished a magnet on a telescope in there and was able to get the socket out.

 

What kind of meth is that in the baggies?

 

The best kind, shop towel soaked with Tran fluid. I’m pretty deep in the woods at the moment.. timing belt is turning into a mini engine restoration project, although it was running fine when I started