What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

Installed the lights, winch, wiring and Factor 55 spliced block and fairlead. Gonna change out the 5 cooler lines while I have access. I've got the covid though so I ran outta steam after a bit. Might work on it tomorrow. Bumper install next week.

 

Preach. I can drive my 03 with stock tires, 4.10's thru the hill country, with the cruise control set to 75mph and it will never shift out of overdrive.

 

My brakes have started squealing as I slowly pull out of the garage in the morning. It's REALLY annoying and I'm sure my neighbor can hear it. I need to get my wife out here to help me figure out if it's the front or rear brakes. I put new OEM rotors and pads up from just last September and I thought I used an appropriate amount of brake grease. So, I'm thinking it may be the rear drums that are making the noise. The video below makes the process of replacing the rear drums in our trucks look easy. I also might be able to just pull the drums off and apply brake grease to those 3 points behind each shoe. Thoughts?

 

Did not mow.....I think we'll try that next week when we have time to get more than 1 yard done.

I did try again (rained out first try) and picked up a friend's riding mower. Pulled back on the single axle. He's thrown off a belt. I think I can fix it.

Already off loaded and washed it. It's easier to work on clean mowers than dirty ones.

 

Finally got around to replacing the 3rd brake light, 20 years of Florida sun has not been kind to that thing. eBay to the rescue

 

The rears last so long have opened them up to spray out brake dust, and also removed the springs, shoes, and adjuster, cleaned everything, re-greased adjuster and contact points, reassembled, bled, and adjusted. But IMHO squeals likely come from the front. Did you use OEM pads? Did you grease per FSM? did you use shims?

 

Thanks.

 

[EDIT] Yes, I used OEM rotors and pads picked up in person from the local Toyota dealer. I want to say that shims were already attached to the pads. I did apply a layer of brake grease, but I didn't realize there was a particular way (per FSM) to apply the grease. I'll go back and check that.

QUESTION: Is there a way to spread the pads without damaging them so that I can pull everything apart? I used a couple of pry bars on the old ones, but don't want to mess up the new ones. Thanks!

 

I use a screw clamp and an old pad to retract the pistons. You can also get a tool for this purpose.

 

Dude. Check your dust shields. Don't ask me how I know. They're probably touching your rotors up front. It may not be painfully obvious they're doing it, but it was the case for me, and after I posted pics on here, two other people found it was the source of their squeal too. Drove me f'n nuts!

I did everything. Changed pads up front. Pulled apart my drums and re-lubed everything. Wasted so much time and $$ on something that was a 1 minute fix.

 

Been a hot minute since I washed either of these. I’ve been flying down dirt roads, driving through muddy road construction, and the FGT was still easier to get clean than the GX.

 

Here you go @Neo -> "The bend in mine was almost imperceptable and I still have NFC how in the hell I did it: https://www.tundras.com/posts/3576977/ "

That's all it took. That little bit and it would only squeal during cold starts, while backing out of the garage. No other time. It's why I was convinced it was somewhere else. I went thru hell, and all I needed to do was pop off each front wheel and see where/if the rotor was making contact with the dust shield.

And since you replaced your rotors, and the new ones are thicker than the old, guess what I'm thinking is going on?

Yup. Exactly what I linked.

 

Mine has had that same brake squeal since I got it. Only with cold brakes in reverse while backing out of the driveway. I didn't notice any contact with the dust shield when I did the LBJs, but I have also accepted that squeal and will happily live with it now that you and others have diagnosed what it is.

 

I just didn't want it because I don't want to create a new rust spot, and need to replace the backing plate when it rots thru.

 

Mine could also as easily be just the way the pads/shoes bite in reverse when cold. Looking through photos from doing my LBJs, I think I might see one dent in the backing plate that could cause it, but mine are also relatively rust free.

We may get rain for 9 months out of the year and the occasional shitty ice storm here in the PNW, but salt on the roads isn't really an issue. They like to dump tons of gravel on the roads and spray them down with deicer instead.

 

I believe that's the brake pads vibrating, not contact with dust shield.

 

It can be, especially if you didn't install the shims Toyota recommends, don't use Brake Quiet or similar to adhere the shims to the pads, or some would say, failing to apply grease between the caliper face and shim/back of pad.

Advics made the OEM brake parts. Advics' pad kit, which is cheaper than most I've found, includes pre-glued shims, with all new springs, so you get the correct fitment, reducing risk of squeal.

 

Nice!

I dusted the plastic in the engine compartment on my wife's Lexus. Does that count?

 

If bought a new car, that engine plastic would be the first in to go into long term storage.

 

Finally got this RCF throttle body on. Couldn't wait for OE bolts and went to Ace hardware for a perfect match.

 

I need to take my truck in soon to get the timing belt replaced. Already have the AISIN kit, but I've been trying to think of anything else I want them to do at the same time. Truck has about 264K miles, and this is the list of things that I'm about ready to order.
Cam seals, Fel-Pro
Radiator, Denso,it's a little brown, but I've seen much worse on here.
Radiator cap, ???, should I stay with OEM for this?
Thermostat, AISIN
Radiator hoses, Gates or ACDelco?
Spark plugs, NGK, I can do those myself.
Spark plug boots, NGK, also do them myself.
Anything I'm missing? Gonna order everything from RockAuto tonight or tomorrow morning.

 

I'd consider getting a replacement Aisin fan bracket.
If you're doing the cam seals, may as well do the crank seal too.

 

Thanks, added the fan bracket and crank seal. You wouldn't happen to know of a discount code for rock auto right now would you?

 

Damn I bet that TB set you back a pretty penny. Let us know what you think. You use the URD adapter? $$$

Edit: I see URD now.
So you boosting her soon?

 

Yes, they get posted regularly here on the forum. To get the latest one, I go into the Lunch Table thread, and search for ROCK AUTO CODE, then check the box for "Only search in this thread".

This is that search, you can bookmark if you like: https://www.tundras.com/search/8716778/?q=rock+auto+code&t=post&o=date&c[thread]=60450

Sadly, it looks like the last one posted expired 9 days ago. So I'd tell you to pull one from RetailMeNot's website here: https://www.retailmenot.com/view/rockauto.com

That said, I'll warn you: You must put the code into the "How'd you hear about us?!" box, then hit enter or apply the code by other means. Make sure the code actually shows 5% off when you get to checkout. If it doesn't, you may need to enter a different code.

 

Oh, and when Rock Auto sends you an email 30 days after your order giving you another 5% code (as they always do), please go into the Lunch Table thread and post the code there, making sure ROCK AUTO CODE are included so it'll show up in search. Just sayin'.

 

December 2023

The original fog lights in my 2002 have seen better days... I found these excellent made in TAIWAN copies on Amazon, I installed Yellow 3000K LED 9006/HB4 bulbs and I treated the lenses with Plexus.

 

Looking good. How do you like them in the dark so far?

 

Thanks.
They are very bright and I like them very much once I got them adjusted / aimed correctly.
They work as advertised in dense fog as well as an assortment of inclement weather conditions.


EDIT There is one downside, the LED fog light bulbs cause radio static

 

Found a code on reddit that works and added it to lunch table.
Also going to go ahead and get the Gates belt and tensioner kit. Figure I might as well change that belt out if I'm doing the other stuff.
Should I get the pulleys too? Two pulleys, and NSK makes the OEM ones?

I hate doing maintenance and want to knock as much of this stuff out all at once so I don't have to deal with it for the next 100K miles. Start planning fun stuff to do like the suspension after all this crap is taken care of.