Howdy! Come watch me polish a turd.

Hey man, if it works, it works!

 

Finally ran the missing ground, cleaned up the battery mount and put on new terminals. Fair amount of surface rust under the battery tray so I hit that with a wire brush and some rustolium. Still missing my hold down, but my 4th of July shipment from Serra finally shipped yesterday so it’s just a matter of days.
Also swapped back in the busted ass seat that came with the truck, I started getting an airbag light and didn’t want to eff with swapping seat belts and wiring harnesses.

Not bad for an hour of work.

 

You can take the positive loom loose at the clip under the battery tray (10mm) and slide the clip further down the loom to get more cable and turn that positive terminal 90 degrees to match the negative, if you so choose.

 

Still have high oil pressure and idle but the gas gauge dropped another 1/8th of a tank which seems more accurate based on how much I’ve driven it.

Speedo is still effed tho. I’m sitting still in this picture.

Also saw a member has a truck named crackie so I’m thinking about naming her “Methanie”

 

You’re a beautiful man.

 

Tweek, like the character from South Park.

 

I like it. @Tundra2 will be proud

 

High? The hell? Are you high?

For the '05-'06 all gauges (temp, oil, battery) should be at half-mast. Don't confuse it with the '00-'04 which use a totally different cluster. Your gauges are right where I'd want to see them.

 

oh thank you. I was kind of worried about that because I had a bunch of junk in my oil and I thought I had a blocked pick up tube or something. I thought all the first gins had low oil pressure relatively

 

IMO, if your pickup tube was truly blocked, I'd actually expect for you to both hear knocking when you step on the gas (knocking sounds like deisel engine "clonking" when you shut a diesel down, if you're unfamiliar), and your knock sensors (one per bank, between the starter and SAI pump) to be throwing knock codes. And I personally believe it would be highly unusual for it to just be a single knock sensor on one bank but not the other, knocking only on one hemisphere would be wierd, I know it can happen, but it would take unique scenarios to get there.

But yeah. I think it's covered in the owner's manual, but in case it's not, on the newer Tundra gauge cluster that started in '05 and continued thru '06, all needles (except gas) should be roughly at middle, and that's normal range (+/- ~5%). Toyota fixed this in 2005. I think the gauges on '00-'04 were a serious mistake, and I find them virtually unreadable and illogical.

 

It's still low pressure, the guage just displays it different.

 

Stop, you’re going to make me have an existential crisis

 

Shit, welcome to the club. I think I'm on my 4th at this point.

 

But is it still low is the gauge says it’s not or is it the same as the earlier models, which isn’t low, the gauge just says it is?

 

Yes

 

For '06 you're sitting about the same pressure mine sits at.

 

The fun never ends, boys.

 

You didn't torque it to spec, or did it somehow spin itself off? Hey, there's a lot of action out back, if it fell off while driving, consider yourself lucky. A lot worse could've happened.

 

The real fun is when it seizes in the bushing and you need to use a cut-off wheel to get it out. Don’t ask me how I know.

 

Negative, the PO apparently used a dirty look to tighten the bolt and it’s been rattling around in the mount for god knows how long and is wallowed out.
Oh and the other side is totally seized and the nut is up against the leaf mount so I am likely going to have to cut it off.

 

Got the passenger side shock replaced, letting the drivers side marinate in the futile hope I can bust that nut loose.

 

Tape off the threads, fill it with JBweld, crank it down. That's what P.O.s do to us, let the next guy pay some dues...
Sort of joking, sort of not...

 

My 05 shows oil pressure about half way (50%) when i crank it but falls down to about quarter (25%) when idle and driving normally.
I have wondered if its the piston squirters, i believe they are open and squirting all the time so its hard to build higher oil pressure.
I noticed on the 3UZ and V35A have a pressure regulator on the piston squirter system, there is a small spring loaded ball valve that wont allow oil to the squirters until the engine builds at least 20+psi of oil pressure. This keeps the squirters from working at idle and any time there is lower oil pressure. Since i have not seen any indication that the 05-07 2UZ-FE has a pressure regulator on the piston squirter system i have wondered if my "lower" pressures on the gauge are due to the piston squirters at idle reducing the overall pressure in the entire system.

 

Hwat?

 

When this happens in offroad A-arm and shock assemblies, most people put the bolt thru the tabs and weld a thick washer over the tab. This will allow you to have a new hole to keep the bolt centered without having to cut that tab off and fab a new one.
Honestly you could just put a backup washer on it and crank the bolt down. Friction from a stiff washer against the tab will keep the lower shock eye from wobbling around like it was.

 

Thats basically what I’m going to do once I unfuck this thing enough to actually drive it. Right now I gave it a bunch of ugga duggas and it seems to be more or less centered in the mount

 

Also,

 

Got first crack at a wrecked 2005 DC down in Portland. Heading down at the ass crack of dawn to strip that bad boy. The list so far:

• Battery tie down
• Tailgate
• Black interior trim pieces
• All interior seats
• Drivers door control panel
• Trans cooler
• Secondary Hood release
• Cat back exhaust
• Front coils
• Rear axle?
• UCAs
• Hitch
• Entire drivers front brake line
• Load proportioning valve
• Headlight bolts
• Factory jack, manual, FA kit
• Parking brake lines
• Spare?