Brake bleeding sequence

I just purchased new Powerstop 13WL calipers and plan to install them along with new rotors and pads. I also have new drums and shoes. I couldn't find anything in the FSM that states a bleeding sequence. The MC is near the LF, so I would start at the RR, LR, RF and LF last as a guess. Furthest to closest to the MC is from memory. Seem correct?

Also, if I don't need to bleed the rears, can I just bleed the fronts and be okay or should I bleed all 4 brakes on these trucks?

 

If your truck has the LSPV (load sensing prop valve) in rear, bleed that first. Then passenger rear. Then driver rear. Then passenger front. Then driver front.

 

What are the WS calipers? WL equivalents?

 

Always LSPV first, IMHO. Then start with farthest from MC to nearest MC.

But that said, if you didn't get OEM drums and shoes, and you intend to use an aftermarket replacement spring kit, make sure all the springs match. And expect the drums are going to be out-of-round if you didn't buy OEM. If you have vibrations during braking or driving after, that's your main culprit.

Granted, aftermarket (non-Toyota/non-Advics) rotors are sometimes also warped right out of the box too. We've seen it. It's happened here.

 

Typo. Meant WL.

 

I went OEM on everything directly from Toyota except for the calipers from Summit. I’ll have to confirm tomorrow morning if I have the LSPV. Is that an option on some trucks or do they all have it? If I do have it, and I don’t need to bleed the backs, would I still bleed the LSPV before leading the fronts?

 

Thanks. That confirms my thoughts too then.

 

The only trucks I've seen that don't have the LSPV is double cabs that came with VSC traction control (they have an "Auto LSD" button on the far left of the clock display in the dash, next to the 4HI button).

Given you have an AC, and it's a 2001, I'm going to assume you have LSPV, unless someone deleted it. Which is highly unlikely.

Remember to properly bed your brakes after buttoning it all up. I'd recommend doing the rears first, because you won't crack any lines open, then go test/break them in, then come back and do the fronts. This way, if anything is squirrely, you'll know EXACTLY which one caused the problem. If the rears work fine after update, but something is wrong after the front brakes, you know it's the calipers/rotors or the bleeding job that caused it. Y'know?

 

Pressure bleeding is the way to go. LSPV first, and make sure the rod is actuated to fully open to the rears. Then bleed all 4, with a good flush of the entire system while you’re at it (brake fluid is cheap). And definitely adjust the parking brake cables and the rear shoes tight and the crank levers on the rear drums - you want to take out as much slop travel as possible, which will reduce peddle travel and improve feel. If you’re replacing the front calipers, pads AND discs, you could have done the “big brake” upgrade for not much more.

 

Good advice. So I purchased 2 wheel cylinders from Toyota just in case there's leaks on the existing cylinders. I'll return them if the ones on there now look solid. So if I have to break the rears, would the same logic be followed? Still do the rears first and fully bleed the rear, drive it around for awhile and bed them in, then do the fronts including bleeding the fronts another weekend?

 

I usually use the Mighty Vac to pump bleed and have had good luck. The reason I didn't do that big brake setup is because there is no way to machine the calipers at home to fit so I skipped it and just went with the regular upgrade (13WL).

 

I mean, I would. Only because so many people tend to have issues with the rears specifically, that I’d want to rule out any issues after one before proceeding to the other.

 

This is also what I use. Pressure bleed and reverse bleed are superior, but vacuum bleeding is generally just as fast and can be as effective. Most people don’t know how to or don’t reverse bleed. Me included in the latter.

 

I used vacuum bleed on mine first couple of times but figured out, after I had bought and setup the pressure bleed cap, that the bleeding went much better on the rears after I actuated the LPSV full open. And the pressure bleeding was just as easy as the vacuum.

 

I pulled the drums off today and the passenger side bell crank was seized open so ordered both sides. It gives me some time to make sure I fully understand these rear brakes and the LPSV. I couldn't find a good video that showed the entire setup including all the parts and bleeding. Any recommendations? The shop manual is pretty terrible IMO on this.

 

The Dorman unit is a great option others on here have used. You may be able to get OEM also.

Just know your earlier year model DOES NOT have the adjuster available anymore, but the OEM can be repacked and is sufficient.

Aisin makes the wheel cylinders if you decide to go there, and I think there’s a rebuild kit for the OEM also.

 

I ended up ordering the Dorman kit 924-753. I ordered two Toyota wheel cylinders just in case and I may swap them out since I'm there. They're not leaking but they're also 24 years old so one less headache to worry about later on. I'm confused by what you meant that the adjusters no longer available and I have to rebuild it. Can you rephrase that because I'm not sure what you are mean.

 

The star adjusters. Toyota discontinued them for the early year trucks. But they come apart, you can repack with Silglyde or similar grease and re-use. Aftermarket ones have slight fitment issues that will cause auto-adjust from working correctly. I’m pretty sure the process is in the FSM.

 

Ah okay. I thought you were referring to the adjustment screw on the back of the ball crank. Yes the star nut is in good shape and I was planning on doing exactly as you said and reuse it. Thanks @shifty`

 

Keep us posted bro, I’m sure you’ll have fun and success on this one.

 

Thanks and will do. I've done many disc jobs throughout the years and have zero concerns about them but haven't done drums since early 90s and actually ended converting that car to discs anyway. Lol. Too bad this conversion isn't as simple as it was on that '92 fwd back then. I have a few more days to keep reading posts and looking for videos on the adjustment parts of this job, because I think that's the hardest part of drums. When things do go perfectly as planned and have to start messing around between the star nut, ball crank and E-brake cable to get it right. Plus the bleeding part introducing this new valve that I've heard of before this job. Lol. Thanks again for all the help! Great forum!

 

I know it’s 4pg long but in case you haven’t caught it: https://www.tundras.com/threads/rear-brake-adjustment-theory-and-practice.99575/

beware some of the rear brake videos online. The FSM gives great info, and that thread pulls direct from the FSM.

 

Question on how to bleed the system…I am planning on siphoning out the MC and refilling it, then starting at the LSPV, then the 4 wheels in order PR, DR, PF, DF. The question is in regards to the LSPV. Does it have a standard bleeder nipple like the calipers? Not sure if mine is seized and if I should buy a replacement just in case. Anyone have any experience bleeding the LSPV? @shifty` @Jedgar @The Black Mamba

 

LSPV nipple is standard.

 

Just to add another point for consideration, I've used both vacuum and pressure bleed methods and find the pressure bleed to be superior.

With vacuum bleed I commonly would find that air would be sucked in from around the bleed nipple threads, and it made it hard to know if visible bubbles were from the line or from the bleed nipple threads. The pressure bleed is also faster and pushes a higher volume of fluid through the system in the same given amount of time. I would assume that this would also help evacuate any air trapped in the system, and if nothing else it is faster in exchanging the full system fluid volume.

So some of the above may be anecdotal or opinion, but if you have a choice between the two I would suggest trying the pressure method. I detailed my experience here: https://www.tundras.com/threads/normal-brakes-are-possible.147241/#post-3690342

 

Should be 10mm for the LSPV and rears, and 8 mm for the front.

 

All 5 of mine are 10mm

 

Hmmm, I just replaced my calipers with Power Stop, which I assume(d) were OEM reman, so I assumed that the bleeders therefore were OEM spec. (I recently replaced the rear cylinders with Advics

It's not going to keep me up at night...

 

I bought this one for the LSPV.

 

Pressure bleeding is superior imho as well. Vacuum has bubbles from thread, reverse bleeding is opposite of my intention in flushing system and the other methods are either slow or need two. Pressure bleeding gives maximum control over operation and allows for best possible leak detection, as entire system is constantly pressurized, so you’re able to see leaks better