General Supercharger Thread

...by the EPA?

 

Possible to find out if anyone left them out and what temps were? Failures or positive effects?

 

So, for those of us that run hotter, and don't have emissions testing, could we just remove the spacers for cooler temps?

 

Ill ask someone at Toyota next week.

 

Hmm might be adding “remove coolant jacket” from my future built 5.7 project, once my current one plays 52 piston pickup on the side of the road haha.

 

Ha! Run 0w-20 oil, flex lock etc etc to gain an extra mpg or be part of the climate cash cow.

 

My thinking too!

 

Definitely don’t want to leave them out. Keeping bore temps equal is great for not only a clean burn through the entire stroke, but longevity of the cylinder/pistons/rings will surely be better. These jacket spacers are spec’d for the heat load generated by a NA engine… but they are likely one of the causes, or at the minimum, a significant contributor, to piston failure. They might just need a trim for boost.

 

Is this normal? about 120 miles in, happens if it's been sitting more than 15 minutes, much more first start in the morning.

It has
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For 500 miles.

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I wouldn't worry about it, rings haven't fully seated yet. I would check the catch can often, it'll probably fill up fast too.

 

Thanks, it's stock right now, no catch can.

 

Gonna show some ignorance here but would dropping to a 180* t-stat be a good idea?

 

Thanks! Just wanted to see what the exact need is. Good clarification on the spacer.

 

I've read it either way but more pro to keep it stock. I kept the 185 t-stat.

 

I would hook up the catch can, with bigger ring gaps you might experience more blow-by and would be better to catch that than let it coat your intake and valves.

 

The first Gen tundra went to a cooler T-Stat 180*, but it didn't have an intercooler. They also had the water jacket spacer. Those never Broke/Melted pistons, usually the rods failed. I have my own opinion on why and it wasn't the rod....

 

Starting to box up and clean out garage of parts etc. At a minimum before moving going to install lexus driver side windshield washer and do the 3x7.5 intake opening mod. Oh and decide where to move to...

 

I still have your trans here lol

 

Oh man! I was supposed to head to Portland a few times but stuff kept coming up. Either I'll be down when I move or have my brother grab it, should fit in the back seat of his Audi.

 

Finished the thermal blanket, didn't receive any paper instructions on the installation, but I was mainly looking for the boost fitting location so I can install the barb.. what size tubing are you guys using 1/8 ID?

Is there a pdf somewhere, I looked on Whipple's site associated with my year and only the tune installation is available on pdf.

 

Haha no rush it’s not in the way or anything just making sure you don’t forget about it

 

Wouldn’t be install instructions from them for the boost gauge. I did mine driver-side manifold. Right below the 3 vacuum lines there’s a spot 1/8 is correct I believe

 

Ok, so pretty much any of the manifold ports not in use.

Now, where do I get that matching braided hose that I can't unsee...?haha thanks!

 

You could use hydraulic hose sleeves, or the nylon heat shrink braid covering. They have some different types on Amazon etc.

 

Aren't the nipples pre-rotor? Would they see boost?

 

This spot should get you boost reference

 

XAT appears to add the plastic back.

Not seen:


Seen (right before heads went on):

 

Yeah...had the boost gauge in my Tacoma and to be honest I havent even thought about it for the Magnuson until this thread.
Would like to get the interior pillar piece to mount the boost gauge as well as some other gauges.
They have different models with your choice of the number of gauges you want

 

I remember it being a Bitch to get the boost gauge tube through the firewall and connected without crimping it.

 

Are you talking about this nipple?