Axle Good or Shot from Bad Repair? Rear Seal & Bearing Replacement Advice

Howdy everyone,

I'm in the middle of a rear axle seal and bearing replacement on my 2002 Tundra SR5 Access Cab TRD, and I’ve run into what might be a damaged axle shaft. Hoping to get some input from folks here who've tackled this job before.


Context:
This truck had a bad axle seal leak when I bought it. While tearing things down, I found that the brake backing plate, brake shoes, and the exposed portion of the axle housing were absolutely caked in gunk. Every nut and bolt was coated in grime. You can even see debris and buildup around the ABS tone ring and the axle shaft near the bearing and bearing retainer. The C-clip was stuck and took some extra effort to remove.

For the pressing operation, I followed Timmy the Toolman’s rear axle bearing video using Duane’s press tool and a 20-ton Central Machinery hydraulic press from Harbor Freight.


The Issue:
In Timmy’s video, after the first loud pop, the bearing and retainer press off smoothly and the axle shaft drops out cleanly. In my case, it went differently:

• I heard the initial loud bang, just like in the video.
• But after that, pressure builds again, followed by another loud bang — and this repeats multiple times, without much visible movement.
• I realized that there is marring on the axle shaft from what looks like a previous bad repair job. It seems the previous attempt was done by cutting the bearing retainer with a grinder or something, and I suspect that marring on the axle shaft surface might be causing the press to bind. More importantly, is the axle still good?

Here's a photo of the shaft with the visible damage:
>> Click here for full-size image <<


Questions for the community:

• Is the axle still usable given the visible marring?
• Could this interfere with bearing fitment or tone ring alignment?
• Does this area affect sealing or long-term reliability?
• Has anyone seen repeated loud pressure pops like this while using Duane’s tool and a 20-ton press?
• Would light cleanup (sanding, emery cloth) be enough — or is this a replace-it situation?

Any guidance or real-world feedback would be greatly appreciated. I’d love to avoid sourcing a replacement axle if I don’t have to, but I also don’t want to risk doing the job twice.

Thanks in advance for the help!
I’ll post updates as I go in case this helps the next person tackling this job.

—
Taha in Utah
Scout | 2002 Tundra SR5 4WD Access Cab TRD
273K Miles Strong | Rear Axle Seal + Bearing Refresh Underway
YouTube → Taha Abbasi – The Brown Cowboy

 

Well it does look like the tone ring was cut off and the axle scored. How deep is the cut?

Have heard of oil seepage under the inner retainer from scoring like it appears may exist lengthwise on that axle, but also heard of it being solved using like #2 permatex where the retainer mates to the axle shaft.

The outer retainer looks rusty and extremly pitted (meaning it's been exposed to moisture). Was the axle shaft pitted and rusty there too? Perhaps that is causing friction so making it hard to remove.

Here's what a 2023 OE axle with 200k+ miles looked like before disassembly. The outer retainer and axle shaft was not pitted with rust.

Could consider applying some penetrating oil at the mating surface of the axle/retainer before retrying to disassemble. Once apart could fully access condition of the axle.

If decide to replace and can't find a good OE axle, seem to recall someone replacing their axle recently with aftermarket, so maybe they can share more info.

 

When i helped @bmf4069 with his axle, i’m pretty sure the retainer popped, then came off smoothly. Maybe a file and some sanding would help yours, but i’m not sure i’d be comfortable running an axle with a stress riser like that. I’d find a whole axle housing from a jy and swap it (as long as its not caked in grease) instead of buying just an axle shaft, i think frank got his for $150 or so.

 

I think you're probably correct that the binding is being caused by inconsistency on the shaft surface, but wouldn't be at all concerned about it. Keep pressing. When you get it off, inspect the surface for any high spots. How far is the end of the groove from the end of the machined edge?

 

A this point I'd be tempted to go buy a JY axle, or better yet, just go buy a Dorman replacement that comes with everything, ready to press on...

 

Time for a Seqouia axle swap with disc upgrades.

 

Thanks for all the feedback everyone.

Seems it's a few mm deep. I can measure in the morning and share.

@shifty` I was thinking about this. At this point I've ordered:

1. Bearing
2. Inner Retainer
3. Outer Retainer
4. ABS Tone Ring
5. Inner Seal
6. Outer Seal
7. O Ring
8. and even the brake backing plate

All OEM. I'm wondering if I should return the items as I haven't installed any of them yet due to the issue I'm facing, and just get a replacement Dorman Axle as you suggested. How are these? I'll be doing some towing of side by sides, boats, jet skis, and overlanding to camp and lake sites here in Utah.



It looks like the Dorman one comes with Bearing, Inner Retainer, ABS Tone Ring, and Outer Retainer already pressed. Just need to replace Axel Housing Seal and O ring.

@KNABORES haha one day, I think it's too overwhelming to think about when I'm focused on fixing this axle seal leak for now and then work on suspension so I can go camping.

 

Or I could order OEM axle shaft lol...this truck is getting pricey

 

Maybe @shifty` or someone else has experience with that axle?

It looks like the inner retainer in the picture is installed too far outward not within like 3-5mm of the machined edge, but it's just a picture so maybe it's actually setup correctly. Might be able to reposition the retainer if needed. Don't know what bearing they use.

Can get OEM parts at almost 50% off during 25% sale off of online prices. Was able to source for about $105 a side. But when in a time crunch was also able to find the Nachi bearing and retainer set at Advance and Napa while using the other new Toyota bits (circlip, dust cap, o-ring, and axle seal).

https://www.tundras.com/threads/weird-rear-wheel-bearing-circlip-issue.144332/#post-3631838

Many reuse the tone ring.

Did you get it disassembled to see what shape the axle is in?

And why replace the backing plate? Is yours rusted away?

BTW have you read @remington351's thread?

 

I don't think you need to replace the axle. (as long as the groove doesn't extend to the edge/past the edge of the ABS retainer)

 

Well, I got the axle shaft out finally. Took some pulling and heard multiple loud noises as the bearing retainer fought through the scoring on the axle shaft.

Bad news seems that scoring comes past the ABS Toner and Retainer above it.

What do you guys think? This could have made the leak worse, there was so much gunk on the wheel, back of braking back plate and everything in the region.

 

I have experience (ample) with Dorman products, just not that specific one. They get guff from some people but in my experience generally make quality products, at least when they make them directly. I know there are a couple of people on here who’ve used their axles, and I probably will/would too if I ever had to deal with this situation, just to avoid having the grief that I’ve seen others deal with pressing on/off. Just important to realize: The rear axle length varies based on cab type (DC is diff’t from the others), so be sure to order the correct axle.

 

BTW when you say the gash extends past the inner retainer that may be true as it is held in those photos but the video and thread shows positioning of the retainer much further inward on the axle. Was the retainer installed that far outward? Do you have a picture of the inner retainer position before disassembly? That could explain the leak as the axle seal might not mate to the retainer if installed too far outward.

The seal that keeps oil out of the bearing and brakes rides on the inner retainer and it doesn’t appear the gash you discovered extends to the front of where that retainer should mount for oil to enter under and migrate outward throught that gash.

Can't fully see the shaft itself back to the end that is covered by all the loose parts being held on top, but from the looks of the rust on all the interiors of the other parts it seems the axle shaft is likely rust pitted too where the bearing, outer retainer, and tone ring mate (and hence why it was so hard to disassemble). It seems like the outer seal failed and/or water intruded from water crossings. Have you checked the functioning of the vent on the rear axle housing to see if it is plugged? Known issue is expansion and contraction of heated oil when cooled quickly and impact to axle oil seals.

 

If go this route there is a grease test to verify inner retainer placement.

 

I want to say this is correct. The FSM actually specifies the use of a cutoff wheel to remove the retainer and ABS ring. The fact the the cutoff wheel gouged the axle shaft is unfortunate, but it is indeed the retainer on which the seal interfaces. When I did my axles I used measurement to determine the location of the retainer after assembly (the FSM provides the measurement, and I double checked by measuring my axle before the parts were pressed off). It all went back together easy peasy, although I did outsource the presswork to my local specialist. If in doubt (and you don't mind pulling the axle out to check) you can also use the grease pencil to check the actual spot on the retainer that the seal hits.

Did we talk about the breather yet? It may or may not be responsible for blowing out your seal, but change it out now to preclude any further problem. And since it's obvious that someone before you has repaired this at least once consider the possibility that they may not have used OEM seals.

 

Here's the OEM breather part# if needed: https://autoparts.toyota.com/products/product/plug-breather-90930a3001

MSR is $13 but if I select my local dealer using that site, they knock 30% off. One of them is actually 35% off, so $9. Cheap part with expensive consequences for not replacing proactively.

 

If anyone is interested, posting some updates of how bad this leak was.





I don't have a picture or exact footage of the axle shaft area focused on the ABS tone ring before disassembly, but I do recall it was pushed in too far, the seal was not riding in center of the retainer that goes above the ABS tone ring.

 

It seems it extends past the edge of the ABS retainer and well into the polished area.

I didn't even know what a breather is or where it's located. Would definitely like to replace this. If anyone has any videos on process or if it's just as simple as finding it, remove and replace I can probably figure it out. Thanks for sharing @shifty`

 

There should only be about 5mm of polished area showing when the ABS retainer is installed. From the pics it looks like there’s a good 15mm before the groove starts.
Do you have a pic of the axle before you removed the ABS ring and retainer?

 

It literally is as easy as removing a bolt and reinstalling it. I want to say it takes a 14mm deep well socket? Maybe 12mm. Ratchet off the old, ratchet on the new. It’s a one way valve, allowing pressure to blow off at the valve, instead of blowing your axle seals. Nothing can re-enter, preventing water and contaminants from entering the housing. Thus it’s normal to hear a little hiss of air once it’s lifted away and the seal is broken (vacuum). Hot air expands and blows out of the joint, after cooling it creates mild vacuum inside.