my V8 4X4 Manual swap

Hi all, last year I swapped my 00 V8 2WD auto truck to a V8 Manual 4X4 with an R150F 5 speed from a 99 tacoma with an ishift transfer case




I have towed cars on full trailers with this setup and off roaded some pretty fun and difficult trails with it
manual is the way to be



so I am going to info dump my project here, update with pictures, will edit to include more:

parts list:
99 R154 with ishift
V6 Manual Tundra clutch and brake pedals
Akina motorsports "new" long bellhousing
Modified 3VZ flywheel and matching 3VZ Spec stage 4 clutch kit
C5 Corvette hydraulic TOB
remote bleeder adapter
Xcessive manufacturing adapter
stock tundra V6 manual clutch slave cyl
stock V6 manual trans mount modified
V8 auto 4x4 driveshafts, rear modified

Pedals and ebrake: you have to use the ebrake from a manual truck, because the clutch pedal mounts there, and the foot Ebrake is using those mount holes, the manual brake pedal routes around the steering column different than the auto brake pedal, in the way of the clutch pedal

I bought the whole pedal box assembly, but upon further inspection the bracket is all the same, the pedal is different and will mount up without changing the box




which in itself is quite annoying due to one of the bolts basically hitting the dash beam

I had to drill and cut the hole for the slave cyl, toyota USED to leave the holes there with a rubber plug, but there is a hole there in the carpet/insulation there to help guide you


there is provisions in the dash beam and the spots to run the ebrake cable for the hand parking brake, but I havnt tried to fit the ebrake pivot arm on the frame rail yet, the cable connects directly to the auto ebrake cable, but barely holds the truck, it needs the torque multiplier of that arm to really hold it





Bellhousing and transmission:
I used a 99 Tacoma V6 4X4 transmission aka R150F, long input shaft

I would highly recommend converting the later R150 to a short input shaft and using the much more readily available short bellhousings, for these reasons:
the stock fork on the bellhousing wont reach the pressure plate due to the increased length
with the short input shaft conversion you should be able to use the V6 auto driveshafts
the shifters line up to the stock location hole in the floor, as there is a provision for cutting in the floor, and the shifters clear the center console
my bellhousing also had a pedestal that sat too far out

these could have all just been related to the quality of my bellhousing, but I couldnt really find any answers of anyone using these long bellhousings like this yet

clutch slave and master:
I used a T56 corvette setup with remote bleeder, using an xcessive manufacturing adapter, due to not being able to use the stock stuff, I originally tried to use hard brake lines and the oem style system, but it wont reach the pressure plate
I used metal spacers to push the adapter further towards the pressure plate, grannas racing has an adapter which is adjustable, but unsure if it would reach too
braided hydraulic line made by a local shop, using adapters



Clutch/flywheel: I used a 3VZ stage 4 spec clutch with a modified 3VZ flywheel for added weight/torque, rated for 600+ (good for when I supercharge)


transmission mount
I cut and had it rewelded




driveshafts, I used V8 Auto 4X4 driveshafts, the front one fit without modification, I paid a decent amount of money to have the rear modified, shortened and balanced, only the front section of the rear was modified as its two piece

if using the short bellhousing my measurements show that it might work without modification due to the fact that the V6 and V8 being mounted at different spots, the V8 is mounted further back IIRC

I used the stock ECU unchanged, using transistors I have been able to get rid of the shift solenoid codes
470ohm resistors for the shift solenoids and 2.2k resistor for the oil temp sensor

for the secondary automatic speed sensor codes this is the solution:



the VSS is the same plug between manual and auto and works as intended


I wired the PRNDL switch inputs to the clutch switch
so when the clutch switch is pushed in the truck thinks its in park/neutral, when its released it thinks drive, and the idle changes as intended, which satisfies the conditions for the code


I removed the tree shifter entirely and the boot stays in place, which looks fine and is not even noticeable


I accidentally got a transmission with Ishift transfer case instead of J shift, the shifter was missing at the junkyard and I assumed it was a fully manual transfer case, so I use a polarizing 12V switch to engage and disengage the transfer case
which had burnt out the motor, so I need to find a solution that works with the "4WD" button on the shifter, a friend of mine mentioned using a Arduino computer, but I probably should just switch to a J shift

my transfer case shifter hits the sequoia center console and I have been trying to bend it forward to clear, but toyota surely makes these things strong

 

Love seeing heavy mods like this, nice work!

 

nice work

 

That is so fucking cool

 

Interesting project. Would parts from a V6 manual Tundra have made it easier?

 

Ain’t nobody got time for that

 

I was gonna post that assbag! Quit stealin mah memes!

 

I was gonna ask about the center console, lol I got an 04 with the v6 5speed and have been thinking about putting in a full center console

 

That's a sequoia console.

 

yes Sequoia console, only one of the brackets has the mount holes in the floor, which is enough to hold it, the mid bracket makes it sit too high, havnt tried the front one yet

 

OP,

How much do I have to pay you to do the same thing to my V8 4x4 Tundra?

I'm only half joking......I'd love for my Tundra to be a manual shift.

 

Yeah I saw you said it came froma sequoia. How much does it interfere with the shifters?? As I said previously ive been thinking about doing the same thing.
Nice build by the way