So ... you wanna buy / just bought a 1st Gen Tundra, eh?

I bought upper and lower control arms from trq however I'm using Moog ball joints on the ucas and reusing the lower OEM ball joints as they are made to unbolt from the lca.
This is just temporary as I feel in a year+ I might pull the trigger on the SAS conversion I've been considering.

 

If you really think you're likely going through with SAS conversion in 1-2 years, then that would settle it for me. Get extended links. Install the 6112s, noting the lift results others have gotten at misc notches versus what Bilstein tells you is fact (FYI: It's not fact), install the extended links, and call it a day.

At least one user, @KNABORES, found he was able to stick with the OEM Toyota links with his lift by using a stack of washers to lift the top "bushing sandwich" (as I'll call it) roughly an inch. He was still able to screw down the top nut, which IIRC is a nylock, enough to have 1-2 threads pop out the other end, even with that stack. That may be an option for you too.

I deleted my swaybar totally, and the only time I notice is when I'm hitting a 270° interstate offramp at 40mph+. That may also be an option for you.

Good luck with the TRQ parts. We'd love to have your feedback on their quality/longevity over here after 1-3 years: https://www.tundras.com/threads/1st-gen-parts-corner-of-shame-oem-minus-or-plus.122591/

 

Was skimming this again and didn't realize our trucks want Dexon 3 atf, not regular power steering.
Why is that?

 

Dexron III ATF is used in power steering systems due to its lubricating properties and ability to reduce friction

 

Makes sense. Just blows my mind a bit that a power steering pump doesn't want power steering fluid.... and now my system may have both fluids in it

 

If you can't properly do a flush right now, use the turkey baster method to drain and fill with Dex III in the meantime.

 

I'm glad you fixed the typo in that pic.

 

They're extremely similar in nature, minus the additive package. I think ATF adds detergents? I'd need to go look it up.

 

Thanks Shifty....

I really need the 2000 Tundra wiring diagram...

 

It’s linked with all the other important maintenance, manuals, and such in the 5th or 6th line: https://www.tundras.com/threads/ultimate-tundra-wiring-diagrams-collection.81448/

 

Yep, got it..

Looking for a common ground or power that causes instruments and accessories to cut out when I shift into drive or use turn signal or hit bumps. If I slap the top of the dash or bottom of the column it sometimes all comes back on, or it all comes back on next morning..

 

Just wanted to say hello and thanks to @shifty`for this post. I just bought a 2004 DC on Monday and have never owned a toyota before. I read through several build threads before buying, but having all this information organized in one place is *chefs kiss*

I have some big plans for this truck and have the pdf file saved on my phone and pc. It is a great road map

 

Welcome!

 

Sometimes its best not to see whats on the other side of the fence

 

Like seeing a non FGT over there on, the other side......
https://youtu.be/fzR1-OacD8o?si=bqbzvCX56kzYvP4U

 

I'm new to the forum, just never thought I'd be seeking out a Tundra forum and read through a lot of what Shifty had to say "not all of it" most of what he said doesn't pertain to me because I am the original owner, so what brought me here was seeking advise on my closed Transmission to change or not to change, but first a bit of background, from what Shifty described, I must have a unicorn because I am the original owner and the Truck is sill like Brand new, that's because I went over and beyond on the upkeep, I've used nothing but Valvoline Oil Full Synthetic and swapped it out with shelf life not mileage because in my case shelf always came before mileage, it's always been garage kept, though most of not all of the 81k are in town/city type driving, I purchased my SR5 DC the last year of the Gen1 back in 2006 and it only now has 81k on it. I'm in central TX no rust here and have been retired for the past 16 years, I rode a Harley for several year which helped keep the miles off the truck, so my Gen1 is sill like a new truck at least in my eyes. To this day no matter where I go I get compliments and or is it for sale? Questions on the truck because of it's brand new like condition, things I recently done to it were changing out the front headlight housings to get rid of the yellow completely, replace the rear bumper it had a couple small backing dents in it that I put there and I replaced the in-dash with an high end Kenwood flat panel and added a backup camera to it, original harness, solder joints. At my age I now know that, I did good when I purchased this truck as it's going to be my forever truck and now that I have modernized it, even more so.

I remember when I took it in to the Toyota dealer from where I bought it from for it's 50k mileage warranty check many years ago, I was told then it had a closed system and so now today I'm wondering if I should go ahead and get the fluid swapped out, I've heard issue with flushing so I'm thinking if I get it done a drain and fill only.

 

Welcome (also) from Texas!



I'll throw my hat in and recommend a DRAIN AND FILL ONLY.

 

Good call on the Tundra and sounds like great job on the upkeep. Drain and fill is the way here. While the newer transmissions in everything are “sealed”, they are not truly maintenance free. The fluid gets old (think shelf life you described for your engine oil), the fluid also gets “dirty”. Not from environmental contaminants like your engine oil does, but mostly just byproducts of torque converter wear. Worth an occasional, 30-60k miles, drain and fill of the 3.5-4qts that will come out. Not necessary to drop the pan as there is not a paper filter, but merely a mesh screen that won’t ever clog up.

 

You wanna sell it?

 

I should of seen that coming

 

The four big killers of these trucks:

• Using non-OEM lower balljoints, or failing to refresh the lower balljoints after 100k miles.
• Failing to replace the timing belt/water pump/tensioner (for V8 trucks) with the OEM-supplier, Aisin, kit ending in part# -021 every 100k miles or 10 years of service life - Toyota says 90k/9yr as long as you use OEM-grade equipment, and OEM is one of their OEM suppliers, settle for nothing less. We've seen (even recently) stories of other brands, including big names like Gates, failing with as little as 50k-60k miles, which isn't good for a low-interference engine.
• Radiator, specifically "pink milkshake", the transmission fluid passes thru the bottom of the radiator and the seals on that connection are known to give out, sending coolant into your transmission. Best bet: Replace with a new Denso brand unit when you do the timing belt, it's an extra $125-150. Always use pink-colored SLL coolant! If you have anything else, you should really purge at the radiator/both drain blocks, flush once or twice with distilled water, install pink SLLC.
• Rust, which depending on your location/usage, may not be a problem. If you're not launching your boat into salt/brackish water and don't live in an area that salts the roads, chances are this doesn't impact you.

Congrats on being an original owner. You're smarter than 90% of the other truck owners out there, no doubt

 

Has anybody tried removing the front coil spring on a 2005 - 2006 double cab Tundra to fully cycle the suspension and playing with the alignment Bolt to see what is the largest size tire you can truly fit? I feel like this plus proper wheel offset would give a true answer as to how big of a tire we can fit. I sure wish I had a lift

 

You're not properly fitting 35s on this truck unless you cut metal. Don't care what anyone else on here tries to tell you.

 

There's a lot of different tire threads around here, but I haven't seen a secret recipe of offset, caster, and tire width that will for certain tell you the biggest diameter you can run at full stuff and at full lock. Most people don't take into account full stuff and full lock in their reported fitment.

Something documented like tinkerers video but for 1st Gen would be dope.

I don't have enough personal experience to say for sure but Id be skeptical if there was a recipe for 1GT to fit 35s, and definitely not 37s. I think skinny 35s with positive offset, and probably spc uppers and solo lowers might even be a fairytale without something being trimmed on the front bumper... Or moving wheel wells...

Shocks are easy to remove on these trucks imo, so the cycling is not hard... It's the investment into the rarer wheel offset and the uppers and lowers to find the sweet spot.