WHAT HAVE YOU DONE TO YOUR 3RD GEN TUNDRA TODAY?

Typical for first differential service

 

100% machining debris, or swarf. I wouldn't sweat it unless you are getting noise.

Hoping none of that is hiding in my engine waiting for to ruin some future day.

 

@BlackNBlu is correct! And if you were asking about headlights, yes, AlphaRex Nova in alpha black.

 

I ordered TRD Pro shift knob with 20% off July 4th deal plus free shipping. Just in case anyone looking for one

 

That looks exactly like what I found when I changed my rear diff oil.

 

I decided to add some 12v DC infrastructure. Still don't have a plan for lights, but I think this will help keep things clean when I do.

First was a dual "charge/compressor" option without opening hood. Viair sells an SAE 12awg pigtail option, so I decided to add an SAE flush mount port for it that will also allow me to attach a trickle charger. I found a 10awg SAE that I was able to hide in my front license place holder. I secured the wires along side the other grill wires to it will easily come off when I start tinkering with the hidden light bars. I debated a PowerPole 50Amp, but that was big and too hard to hide.



That runs up to a powerpole 50 by the other grill disconnects so I can easily disconnect as well.

Added a ground bus bar for future organization. I just attached it to the plastic trim with some abs scraps for backing from my amp rack. Wired to battery with #4awg.


Made a mounting board out of 1/4" ABS screwed to battery bracket with a switch and fuse block. #4 AWG off a 100Amp MRBF -> Switch -> MIDI fuse block. A 40Amp for compressor/trickle SAE, a 40Amp to bed on #6awg and a 60a to my amplifier and sub (Kicker Key 400.1 and the 10" powered sub both stashed behind back seat).
Won't all run at the same time, and even if they do, current loads are well below. If/when I add a switch pod, I'll probably just do a double MRBF. I grew up on boats an like to keep connections simple with 1-2 max connections. I'll probably get a higher capacity battery at that point too... I do wonder if the fuse block is too close to the battery negative. I can easily redo another ABS board in the future.



Run to the back is for... future considerations. I did add a BlueSea which is on its own 15Amp fuse for basics USB and 12V. I have the cheap bed power that I can run to charge my BougeRV battery just fine. So far the BougeRV battery on the 30qt fridge will run for 12+ hours no problem, but air temp rarely gets over 70 here. I ran the power like the RealTruck youtube video. Mounted a positive and negative bus bar to one of the composite fins in the hollow space next to bed. BlueSea fused to that. Anything in the future I would fuse off that as well.



So far, I really like the trickle charger results. I just hope someone doesn't forget to look before they drive away with it plugged in. I park nose in on my driveway and there is power right there. Easy.
The 5Amp charger can also charge my BougeRV power bank if I want. Now I feel like I am set if I want to add more things. Room on fuse box if I want to do a switch pod in the future.

 

Tim "The Tool Man" Taylor would be proud.

 

May not be much, but finally got new tires after my old OEM duelers wore out. Happy with the purchase so far.

 

I honestly dont understand how that is acceptable debris. They pull parts from molds, cncs, however they are fabricated and dont clean them up prior to install in any sense. Looks like cutting corners to me.

Not barking at you, just dont see that as something that should be the norm.

 

That's the thing - it's not acceptable. It's become the norm for large producers to cut corners - accountability has to happen sometime.

 

I dont think its acceptable either...just typical. Those pieces of metal have no business being in there before assembly, 100%. Dont think I've heard of that causing any issues, so it might be a moot point but still.

 

I'm really liking the DIY 12V power distribution you have there. I'm doing something similar and will be incorporating several of your ideas.

 

i want one also, but how do you feel about the overhang on the sides? is it too much ?

 

Expected the Dominator D6s.

Got the DSSs instead. (Scratch and dent sale).
Can’t say I’m disappointed

 

Looks nice…care to share a few more pics, I like those

 

Here’s some more. I don’t have any from distance yet.

 

Nice thanks…I like how low pro they are - enough for a step into the truck? I’m 6’5” so don’t really need a step but wife does

 

They are pretty low profile.
You can get the ball of your foot in there and side of your foot if you choose to do it that way.

 

If anyone is wondering. If you spill coffee on your drive mode selector the part is 480 plus tax. If you want to go the much harder route I can save you time and tell you how to tear it all apart.

 

That sucks! Did you just tear it apart to wipe it down then let it all dry? Still work?

 

The top two buttons would stick when you press them and it was getting annoying. Toyota told me today the assembly isn’t designed to come apart and if have to replace it. While it was difficult it’s not impossible. The main issue I’m having is figuring out how to clean it out. Tried an ultrasound cleaner and no luck. Some of the cavities are too small for a qtip so I’m not sure what to try next.

 

warm water, dish soap, and a soft long bristle brush. Easy and done. It's just coffee. lol

 

Steam wand from an espresso machine.

 

Oil and filter change #4 (15K miles) with the addition of the RC cat plate/skid.
https://www.roughcountry.com/produc...5sDwF-thkiXk1EiP-Mat11QGyqx3A6QIaAp2pEALw_wcB

I'll cut the filter apart (don't expect to see much) but I'm done sending in oil samples.
Overall I'm happy with the RC cat shield, but the people packaging their mounting hardware boxes need some retraining. This was install attempt #2 after I realized I was shorted one "flag nut" in the hardware kit and couldn't bolt it up. In RC's defense, they sent me an entire new mounting kit, this one complete, not just the missing piece.

I was able to make it work with the O.E. TRD front skid, I just needed to use my own longer bolts on two mounting points where they overlap.

 

Get yourself some of this:

It works great, you could have likely prevented yourself from having to dismantle the part.