What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

Do you have one of those right-angle drill bit heads? I have one for my drill and one for my impact driver. They’ve definitely saved me some money.

 

Nice

 

Woah! I've never heard of those. I'll be getting one today or tomorrow. Do you have one you recommend?

*Scratch that. I just went to ACE and got a milwaulke for my drill, plus some hex head drill bits. I'll give that a shot this weekend.

 

Been super busy and MIA.. missed 20 pages in here LOL.

I've been pretty lazy to tune and dial in my rear suspension. To be honest I haven't pushed the truck super hard due to not having spindle gussets and front bump stops in fear of bending or breaking something. Well I've got it now and I found a really jacked up section of road I can hit at speed. Made some pretty significant adjustments to the rebound and fucking hell it woke the truck up. It's PLUSH. The body does move around still, but no jolting, no bucking, no hard jarring feeling from bottoming out. Significantly less chatter and small bump sensitivity. Through a washboard section it completely deleted the vibrations out of the rear end and felt like I was on a paved road. I'd say it's about 80-90% dialed in. Just need to jump it to make sure it's taking big compressions appropriately and we should be good.

 

Drove the youngest around today to hit a couple of places checking out new/gently used hypercars/supercars.

On the way, after getting warmed up and stretching out on the interstate, was able to get some snapshots of some stats while driving, I've been trying to get eyeballs on the A/F, timing, temps to get some idea of a baseline. Both snapped while steady pedal around 76mph actual (tire size has speedo off). Anyway, only sharing in case it's interesting.

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PS - didn't realize the LTFTs updated so often, this was taken 20-30 seconds later, when I took my foot off the pedal totally, screencapped it around 2200 RPM.

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Which app is that? The veepeek one I bought is sketchy at best for connectivity sometimes and don't feel the interface is very user friendly.

 

I have the same brand bluetooth dongle. I use the OBD Fusion paid app, plus I paid for the extra accessibility in app ($15 all in?). You have to configure all the different monitors, but it works. OBD fusion also works with apple CarPlay so I can quickly view a list of PID's, CEL, and trip data on my head unit. I also use it whenever I purchase used vehicles to see any cleared codes.

 

I have this dongle - and will warn you, don't try to buy one on scAmazon, I posted on here one pop-up spam shop that was selling knockoffs, and I got to it by clicking on the "OBD Link" store, but scAmazon being the scammy shit it is, it dumped the cheaper counterfeiter's part in my cart (the store name was something all-lowercase-gibberish like "jkljjjkkkjjkljlkjlk", posted a screencap on here).

Anyway, I reported it to them and they gave me a nice discount on mine. When you buy it, you can download and use their fully-functional (with several OEM-specific unlocked PIDs for trans temp, lots of SAE PIDs, etc.) app for free, which is called OBD Link in the app stores (iOS, Android) and they have a software package for Windows you can also use to interface with the car, although I haven't done it yet.

You may actually be able to use OBD Link without buying their dongle, but it's been my experience, using the dongle in three different cars, two Toyota, one Honda, it just works flawlessly, connects great, and the dashboards are easy enough to build. Their app gets regular updates making usability simple.

I dunno, YMMV. I just looked back and I paid $111 shipped for the whole shebang back in 2022, buying direct from them, using the coupon code they gave me. And they have a 10% off coupon waiting when you load their site.

Is it worth it? It's debatable. They do have other dongles available for way less money.

 

Should be the obdlink mx+ app iirc.

I use the paid torque app with my generic elm327.

 

Question about your solar. Do you connect that to your battery and have it power that or do you have something like a yeti to power other things? Got a solar panel and I wanna start looking into power options for the fridge. Usually when I'm out wheeling its not a issue charging and keeping it cool with the truck running, but I want to yosemite recently and was worried about killing the battery so the fridge was always warm. Got any suggestions?

Sweet lookin camper, what is it?

 

I have an Anker which is like a Yeti, but I have a 30 amp Renogy charge controller mounted in the engine bay where I can charge my starting battery with solar panels as well. If I ever put a traditional 2nd battery in the engine bay, it'll be easy to get solar to it.

I also have a DC-to-DC converter which charges my Anker off the starting battery, but only when the engine is running and the starting battery is fully charged. It charges my Anker 24v at 10 amps, over double the power of a standard 12v charger.

The DC-to-DC does most of the charging to be fair, but the solar allows me to extend out the number of days I can camp without needing to start the engine and use the DC-to-DC. Without using the truck and using just solar over the period of 24 hours, I usually have a net loss on energy and don't really generate much extra. When I'm camping, I set and leave my solar usually, don't adjust it much with the sun.

 

I'm con

Can you get us a picture of this and maybe it's own thread so it doesn't get buried by other posters?

 

Took the Tundra out today on a non-ethanol "nothing but the best for my mowing equipment" fuel run. Even opened the rear window.

Later visited a client and took her battery out of her rider to make sure I got the right replacement.

The Tundra is a nice truck to drive. When I get the parking brake fixed, it'll be close to perfect.

 

Aluminum ARE DCU High Wedge

 

Is a charge controller required for a solar setup? Mannn I really gotta do some research into all of this

 

Huh never seen a high wedge before, hell year brother

 

Bottom line is yes, you need a charge controller. A charge controller keeps your battery from getting overcharged. For your starting battery, it requires a certain bulk charging voltage and float voltage depending on the type (AGM, flooded, etc). The charge controller should be able tell the type of battery is installed, and will switch from "bulk charging" to "float charging" or trickle charging once the battery is fully charged to maintain state of charge. Anker/Yeti etc have built-in charge controllers. Some solar panels have built-in controllers, built I wouldn't trust those.

This is what I have, and should suffice for up to 400w worth of panels:

$24 Renogy Wanderer Li 30A 12V PWM Negative Ground Solar Charge Controller Solar Panel Regulator w/ Temp Sensor Function Fit for Lithium, Sealed, Gel, and Flooded Batteries, Wanderer Li 30A

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07G1PL1B9?th=1

@Frenchy has the adventurer version which has a screen. Kinda wish I got this one, but I rarely connect my panels to the starting battery so I'd rarely use the screen.

$43 Renogy 30A 12V/24V PWM Solar Charge Controller with LCD Display Flush Mount Design Negative Ground, Compatible with Sealed, Gel, Flooded and Lithium Batteries, Adventurer 30A,black

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07BBKFTNV?th=1

 

I might go for something like this....we sometimes go out with truck alone but as long as I could stand up in the bed, a cover like this would be fine.

 

If the camper shell's a rockin', don't come a knockin'

 

Well this just happened.

The impact was hard enough that it blew out the interior side and peppered me with lil glass bits. Shattered part is quarter sized, spider is ~3.5"

What is the prevailing wisdom on windshield replacement, moldings, etc etc to keep things quality and no leaky.

 

Took the truck on its first real roadtrip to the beach for the weekend.

 

All those stats look amazingly dialed in.


For a while I looked for an android tablet phone to do that with my BlueDriver, on a bigger screen, permanently mounted.

 

How tall are you?

 

Best summary I can muster quickly:

• Use a highly-rated local shop, mom & pop wins every time, never the shit chains like Safelite or similar (Safelite seriously sucks ass these days), and when shopping local, aim for someone with 4.5-star or better rating in Yelp & Google
• Fuyao is one of the only semi-decent brands that really makes glass for our trucks of any quality, but they do have different lines/quality levels of glass, buy the highest quality you can get
• Consider buying new OEM dam kits, side (vertical) trim pieces, clips, and hardware, and sealing the A-pillar holes where those plastic clips go during install
• OEM windshield parts for mid-year 2006 DC V8/4W Limited: https://toyota-usa.epc-data.com/tundra/uck41/3816/body/5553/?full
• OEM around-windshield mouldings and A-pillar trim pieces for same for DC trucks w/o fender flares, and DC trucks with fender flares (anyone reading with AC/RC or non-2006 trucks: Verify at EPC using your own VIN!!!)

I think that's the prevailing logic.

And note on the A-pillar trim pieces, you need 4 fasteners and 4 screws per side (8 each total), the blue bits here. They tend to get rusty with time. Those hold the vertical pink trims (which often get damaged during windshield replacement, rubber ends pop off). Anyway, the lower plastic square inserts, as PHM pointed out many moons ago, may inevitably leak into the A-pillar. I believe it's the main cause of fusebox rot in our trucks, water leaking in/around those inserts, running down the A-pillar, onto a wire harness, and straight down the harness into the back of the fusebox. If it were me, and I were buying the top quality glass and didn't want to deal with this again, I'd replace all pink and blue parts here, and the three purple bits in the 2nd photo (using non-red/green in case anyone reading this is R/G color blind)

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Actually the adventure is for sale….. since I upgraded to the Dc-Dc controller

 

I have the paid torque app also. maybe it's the veepeek model I bought? Or maybe I just need to dig into it more. It's supposed be able to H/U display on the windshield through the phone and some.other cool shit. I wish my Kenwood would allow mirroring withy phone it'd be much easier, I think that's a Google lockdown thing...I'll find that thread from a while back on the dongles PIDS etc

 

Torque PID settings:

Transmission Temp

PID: 21D9

Scale : 1x

Unit: °F

Equation: ((((E*256)+F)*(7/100)-400)/10)


Converter Temp

PID: 21D9

Scale : 1x

Unit: °F

Equation: ((((G*256)+H)*(7/100)-400)/10)

 

Long Term is constantly changing via learned values stored in ECU based on present load and RPM. You went from 2500 RPM to 2000 RPM, ECU looked at table, adjusted and bam !

 

I made some progress with the 90 degree drill bit attachment. It was amazing. However, the bolt extractor wasn’t biting deep enough to get one of the bolts out. I just need some time to spend on it though.

Again, thanks to @JasonC. I totally recommend the right angle bit and impact drill bits.