What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

And cooked on time for once lol

 

What kinda bbqist are you? Beef or pork?

 

PDF Owner's manual attached.

So, maybe the bad news is the manualdoesn't explicitly say it does support it, but I think it may support at least one front camera, which you could put a video switcher on (I could explain wiring for it).

This is the rear of your unit all your video in/out are marked here on the left/rear, where the brown input is "R.C IN" (Rear.Camera Input):

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If I look at the model that came out after this one, which uses the same chassis, it appears it does, it uses the "V IN" (Video Input) port as the "F.C IN" (Front.Camera Input)

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This is taken from your manual, which shows that brown port is the rear camera input, and it doesn't show any other camera support.

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This is taken from the manual for the model that came out after (the AVH-x491), which does support a front camera:

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But interestingly, the port the newer version points to, is labeled "V IN" or "Video Input" on both models.

I skimmed both manuals and I couldn't find anywhere they type out to trigger/view what's attached to that "V IN" port. But I did find this in the newer model, which definitely supports Front Camera, it looks like you tap the AV feature on the screen, then tap the "CAMERA VIEW" icon, does that exist on your unit?

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Usually have a variety. Beef, ground beef, chicken, pork, wings and the occasional lamb

 

Wait!

I just looked at your 490 manual, and it also shows the Camera View button - does that thing only turn on the rear camera? Maybe tapping the "AV" button (look two icons left of the red circle) will trigger that "V IN" port?

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My screen is a bit different and AV doesn’t bring up a camera option but I did find a “Camera View” in another dropdown.


When I click on it…blank screen so guessing this isn’t for the backup camera.

 

I dunno man. Check out pages 36-37 for video inputs your radio accepts, and page 54 when you get a sec. 54 shows yo ucan attach an AV input to the V IN port (#6 on page 54), but it doesn't necessarily say how to turn it on.

You could tinker with a camera that provides RCA out, and dick around with the AV touchscreen item, see which of those will show you the video output of the camera you attach (camcorder or any other video source will work). That's where you'll need to plug it in.

If you can manage to find a way to get video from that V IN port to show on the screen, all you'd need is a basic RCA switch that would kick between the left and right camera, and have a 12v feed coming into the switch, that would pass off to the left or right camera depending which way the switch was flipped.

 

@shifty` not to distract you from this, but what headunit would support 4 cameras, and maybe a dvr sorta setup?

 

That Camera View is for rear view, this is from your manual (below).

You may want/need to install the latest firmware for your head unit to have all the menus that are shown in the manual, I'm not 100% sure. Your radio hasn't been sold, that model number, for a couple years.

 

No clue; I'd need to hit Crutchfield and filter on that one, and I'm not sure if crutchfield offers anything more than front/rear filter options.

But you could totally rig something up, I reckon. A lot of radios support "anytime camera", which you could theoretically use with a video splitter.

 

I recently rediscovered how to turn on my backup camera while not in reverse on my AVHxxxxx

 

In the middle of a big job to get to the head gasket. While things were out, a 3D scan of one of the cylinder heads was made. Not super detailed, but still very cool.





Noticed oil on the "rear end plate" of the transmission. Initially thought it could be the rear main seal, but it looks like it came dripping down from the passenger side, and originated on the rear side of the valve covers. Hopefully, that is it.





Having disassembled this far, I am wondering if I might as well take the rest of the engine out to inspect the drive plate for cracks. I vaguely remember hearing the occasional "marbles rolling around sound" or "ticking sounds." Maybe those sounds were more pronounced due to the deteriorated steering shaft seal on the firewall, which were replaced as part of this big job. The rusty engine mounting bracket could also use some cleaning.

 

You’re impressive bud. Thanks

 

Yeah, that one has been mistaken for an RMS leak more than once on here

Hey @Dakillacore you seeing this?

I'm still shocked by "head" or "head gasket" issue here. If my engine ever died, you best believe I'd be throwing in a GenIII SBC.

 

That deep in there. Any casting flash in the head ports or are they smooth?

 

probably try a usb card & a wolfbox setup. But i do need a new headunit. Something with bt, a screen, and knobs or buttons.

 

That's good information! My fluid looks bright red and is not burnt. Transmission might be on it's way out 200,000 miles and I've never changed the oil.

Previous owner towed a small racecar with it, and it's the A340, so I should probably be happy that it runs as well as it does.

I drive like an old man (conditions permitting of course). Another 100,000 would be great, but I'll see.

 

My dad doesn't like the Kenwood I bought em for Xmas. When I replace it with a Pioneer, we could make a deal if you wanted it. Or when replace the Pioneer in Penelope I'd gladly let you have it for free. You just need an amp to run it because I blew the internal amp.

 

The ‘00-02 seem to have better connecting rods, but worse OD ring gears. When its time to replace the clutches, find a better OD planetary set.

 

Does it take cd’s? Full spectrum equalizer? Buttons & knobs?

 

No, the Kenwood is just a radio blue tooth touch screen. I think it has usb and aux inputs and obviously has backup camera function. But the Pioneer in Penelope takes dvd/cd and all that jazz. I edited the post above with more detail.
Neither have knobs unfortunately

 

I have a jbl speaker that sits in my dash cluster & can bt. If i can do that, i guess i shouldnt need CD’s.

 

SATX: South or central. Definitely not West.
ATX: central
Amarillo/Lubbock: Panhandle or North West.
DFW: North East
El Paso: West
Houston: South East

I don't start calling it West until Midland, Odessa, or San Angelo

 

Our college here is called "West Texas A&M University". This is west Texas. Elpaso is extra west Texas.

 

I wouldn't expect anything less from Aggies...


Hook em Horns

 

First time really hauling anything, need to familiarize myself with trailers a bit more; as the family grows we wouldn’t mind getting a little camper.

Prepping the side/back yard for some stamped concrete. First step was hauling away some asphalt that the previous owner had put down. Next will be shooting elevations for form work, running power for some lights and re routing gas line for a fire pit.

Gross trailer weight was just over 3000KG.




Handled fairly well! The drive into the dump is quite steep and you couldn’t definitely feel the weight.


Had some wheels/tires pop up on Facebook marketplace and had to snag them, 265/70/17 Wildpeak AT4s mounted on some Black Rhinos with only a few months use, PO was selling because his Tacoma rotted and snapped in half…

 

@shifty` When you mean "mistaken," do you mean there were a few who went as far as getting to the rear main seal, only to find out it was ok? At least for the 4WD version, it's quite cramped to even see and access the rear end plate to get started on the job and have the transmission dropped or engine lifted.

More background to this big job. Under normal driving around town, there were no issues or signs. However, during prolonged driving, high engine load, and/or high ambient temps, overheating occurred and caused the coolant to overflow from the reserve tank and rapid bubbling. At this point, I suspected it is a head gasket leak with exhaust gases leaking into the coolant jackets. The seal from the head gasket to the outside of the engine seemed to hold fine. After engine cools, engine and temps looked normal. Fan clutch was replaced, since it was noticeably weak. Then came some testing to see what was going on.

Combustion leak tester was tricky and was done multiple times. It would be fine 95% of the time, but finally after trying different settings (cold or hot engine, after short drives, hard drives, etc), tiny blips of microbubbles and very slight color change from blue to very slightly dark blue/green. That was a small sign, but it was not reliably repeatable.

Next, boroscope down the cylinder chambers after engine cooled, and again after the engine sat for days. Confirmed pink coolant seeping through on some chamber walls, but in small drops that could be missed if not looking carefully. Some cylinders looked slightly cleaner than others - it was not the more obvious textbook "sparkly steam cleaned" look.

Also did cylinder leak down testing, which produced results that added to suspected head gaskets leaks.

After removing the cylinder heads, they were checked for warpage - it was out of spec. If there's interest, I can post the diagram showing the results.

Finally, did a dye penetrant test on the cylinder head. Not cracks. The visual results of the concentrated areas of pitting correlated with the warpage severity.

It is a lot of work, but I do find it fascinating and it puts tools to use. I'm in the slow process of putting some assemblies back together. Wish me luck!

Considering it's a relatively low mileage (~160k mi), but near-20 year old truck, the theory I'm going with is the truck, in its previous ownership, did not see much use during 2020-2021, then when it was put to use again, various gaskets/seals were not happy and started to give way a little at a time. Another theory is the fan clutch was failing and caused an overheat situation(s) that compromised the gasket and got worse overtime. Otherwise, based on records, the previous owner seemed to have regularly kept up with maintenance. It's just unfortunate that long periods of disuse may have played into this. Another vehicle I drive, after it sat a lot in 2020, then went back to daily driving duties quickly developed an oil leak from an oil line right above the exhaust headers.

@Sirfive I can look again, but nothing out of the ordinary in terms of casting flash. I'd imagine that anything significant may have just been grinded out and cleaned before final assembly. Have there been some Toyota heads known for bad casting defects?

 

no, just curious, i havent pulled my intake manifold yet.

 

how many kentucky gypsies? Thats gotta be like almost 3^4 lbs.

 

Not sure why I bothered with KG. Somewhere in the realm of 3-6.6lbs.