AC issue on 2006 Tundra Double-cab Limited

AC light flashing when energized. I just ordered the Heater Relay 90080-87025 in hopes this is the issue, thanks for this info from a previous chat. Hot air only. Cannot get compressor clutch to engage and unable to charge R134a. Is the low pressure switch on the compressor (multiple wires) connector? Cannot remove the connector. Can I pry with a small flat screwdriver, if I need to short? Waiting for the Heater Relay first of course.

 

Have to step out for a bit but when you say "Hot air only" are you meaning blower motor is blowing ?

If so, your heater relay is energized and thru it's closed contacts, the blower motor receives the needed 12vdc and blows. If mis-understood, back to drawing board.

 

Hot air or Ambient air? Please be specific

Lack of freon will do this. Have you had an EPA 609 certified shop check the freon pressure to ensure it's not low or empty (leaking)?

 

The Blower works, hot air blowing since I am in Florida. So, it is not the Heater relay, darn. I did add R134a with stop leak maybe a year ago. The air was cool not real cold until a couple weeks ago. I tried adding more R132a again, but the compressor would not run. I believe the low-pressure switch is on the compressor, right? Can I squeeze a small flat screwdriver on the connector to release it? Which contacts do I jump? If when jumped and compressor clutch does not engage, then the compressor is shot?

I am doing the work. I do have gauges, but doesn't the compressor have to be running?
Does the blinking AC button give any clue?

 

Have you done work like timing belt and compressor ground is loose. If not, I'd still double check the ground on the a/c compressor and make sure it is german tight.
If ground is good, make sure there's 12vdc going to clutch.

 

No work was done on the compressor or timing belt since new engine was installed four years ago by a friend. I am not a mechanic but an engineer who learns from Youtube. Would info from my code finder help my situation? What is the best electrical tool for showing if 12VDC is reaching the clutch?

 

Hopefully you didn’t use that shit in an aerosol can you get at any auto parts store. That leak stopper in those cans is pure garbage and causes so many issues. If you suspect a refrigerant issue and can’t test pressures yourself, take it to someone who knows how. I’ve worked on so many vehicles contaminated with that garbage.

 

Not only that, but there are so many R134 substitutes on the market that look like R134 but aren't, it's not funny. It's so easy for a newbie/non-knowing person to fuck things up worse, end up having to replace the compressor, or misc other stuff. It's better just to hit a specialty shop that deals only with auto A/C, it's literally all they do all day every day. They'll know if you can cut your bill in half by replacing seals on a compressor, just replace the clutch, etc. BEFORE you screw something up trying to fix it yourself, turning what would be a $200 bill into a $1,200 bill.

This is one of two times I'll urge people to go to a specialty shop: A/C and driveshaft/driveline. There are shops that focus on those things alone, and they're extremely good at what they do, they can suss out the problem fast, and - if you get a good one - they won't rip you off (always check Yelp/Google reviews). On my previous comment, one of my favorite channels covers the issue well, in this video, and the screen shows the problem well ... which is the REAL refrigerant?! One more reason "consumer protections" are extremely important.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=41HBPqdMxfI​

 

An over charged system will also cause the compressor not to engage

I've replaced many identifier valves on the Robin Air due to contamination