General Turbocharger Thread (formerly "Turbo Charging A Tundra!")

There is a low psi area. Either perforated mesh or louvers. I planned on using stainless mesh but am looking at louvers too. The area above the radiator between the engine where the fan is can draw air up. It was also suggested doing a cowl hood by placing washers under the hinge to force the hood up to aid in extraction.

 

That's the cleanest install to date, including my own truck, nice work Jego!!

 

I installed the OEM hoodscoop few years ago. In order to keep it I am considering to do something like this:


Or just an opening covered with stainless mesh.

Then keep the hood scoop on top of that opening in the same position and do one of the following:

Add vents to the hoodscoop ...



... or make an opening/cut in the rear side of it:

 

Verified today. There is 6" approx.





Plenty of room but this is why:

I have 1.25" wheel spacers installed:



... also, the 6" lift kit installed has a spacer that make turns wider (less turn) using spacers as steering stops:





It will be nice to have a photo of the available space in that same area but a stock truck for comparison purposes.

 

@Jego the first carbon fiber one looks good!

 

300 miles towing 3500lbs. 75mph. 5th gear on cruise control. 96* ambient. IAT’s were 8-10* above ambient, coolant temps bounced 195-197* and trans temps 190-197*. That’s on top of the 700 other miles I’ve done since Thursday last week with no complaints from anything. She just keeps on trucking.

 

Interesting video about adding a fan below vents...

https://youtu.be/2JciEV8VZa4?si=YI2GzbClU-NvUWMH

 

I can see that especially if they are crawling.

 

if you are interested in helping, I just uploaded a "first post" in this thread. if you feel I have missed something important that you would want to know/expect to see in post #1, please DM me. there is a lot of opportunity for us to add performance feedback to each section. i/we will be working on that now that we have something to start with.

 

@Jego - thank you for the videos and write-ups you shared for "#1" waaaaay back at the beginning of this thread. They've been added to the post.

 

Thank you! I hope it helps! Thank you for all the dedication and support you put into this effort! I really appreciate it! Thanks again!

 

thread title has been changed to mirror the General Supercharger Thread construct.

it will change again in a few months to drop the "formerly" part once the interwebz does its magical traffic cop road atlas update thingy.

 

Brake line, harness, and ground cable relocation, done.

Lot of space for the turbo now:



Ground cable and harness relocation:



Brake line relocation. All good for now, no issues.

 

Also, uploaded a short about it, lol. I'm working on a video with all the details.

https://youtube.com/shorts/FAIzwP8MsaI?si=G_AcGtG87hRBPNm9

 

You say that now but the moment you put that up pipe in there it all goes away. Really is amazing how nice it all fits together in that space though.

 

Can't wait to have it ready!

 

By the way, I tried to install the ground wire on the top area of the engine, but the bolt broke while tightening it. Luckily, I had another one I could use to install it on the bottom area. I hope that's not a problem.

 

Can’t see how it would be.

 

It's fine, anywhere on the valve cover will work.

 

That looks great! Nice clean pics with the white truck too. Those will be great for our installation instruction update.

The ground connection shouldn't cause an issue as long as it's connected somewhere. So you should be fine.

Also, since you are doing this in stages, you may want to consider removing the hard trans lines here and running them up and over the top of the trans and past the heater core lines in the firewall. Greats a TON of extra room.

 

If nothing else, for sure remove the warmer lines from the trans cooler. That opens up a ton of room as well.

 

Thanks! That's a great idea. I will do it! Any recommendation for the hose brand, specs., and approx length?

 

Yep, will do that too. I got the O-rings already. That was the only thing I was waiting for. This is a perfect time to work on it.

 

I was talking about just removing the warming lines to the puck but removing that entire thing would be huge. I meant to do that before the valvebody but it's 95* outside and just no.

 

5/8th line is what we used. You need something temp, oil resistant. But any standard rubber line that handle that will work. 10ft should be plenty, some of the connections are only 1-2 feet, so run the longer sections first, that way if you need another section, you'll know how it's broken up.

 

Perfect thanks! Do you happen to have any photos of your truck engine to have a better picture of where you ran the hoses?

 

This help? https://www.youtube.com/shorts/9gNnoyIkyN4

 

Yep! Thanks

 

@TurboKits @Jego Just for clarification...

The elbow @Jego took the photo of above is intended to completely remove the transmission thermostat and warming puck? Or just the warming puck?

If the tstat and puck, this means no more need for coolant down and around that area and it now becomes a straight shot (x2) of rubber coolant line from front of motor to firewall like @TurboKits highlighted in a previous post. The only thing he'll need down by the trans/uppipe is trans fluid line to run an external/in-line trans thermostat, assuming he isn't reusing the factory rubber to trans cooler hard lines.

If just removing the puck with the elbows, then it's no different than how @TurboKits already described.

Regardless, the 10' of line you are talking about @TurboKits is for coolant/warming puck circuit reroute/bypass, correct? If he isn't reusing the factory transmission fluid lines, he'll be looking for transmission/oil hoses for the trans cooler part, correct?

I suspect we all understand this discussion, but figured it would be good to clarify and to rule out any assumptions.

 

Yes, we did not remove any of the major components from the puck, trans or cooler. Purely removed the bulky hard lines and ran them up and out of the way of the turbo piping. We left it all there on the first development mule, the 2008, which had over 30,000 miles on it before we sold it and upgraded to the 2016 TRD Pro. The current owner has had it for almost a year and it's still; going strong. So On subsequent installs, we just removed those lines for better clearance and to move additional lines away from the heat. So yes, coolant hose, 5/8th, keep it all connected as factory, just run them up and out of the way of the turbo piping.