Ready fo new shoes! 285/75/18

gotcha.

 

Not 100% correct. Part of an alignment on our trucks involves setting you caster angle. Since our UCAs typically have a fixed location for the top of the spindle, the wheel will move forward or backward in the wheel well as the caster angle is adjusted. This will change the space you have between the tire and body mount behind the tire, as well as the bumper in front.

Caster plays a big part in fitting bigger tires on our trucks.

 

Hmmm, ok. I’d never screw with castor just to fit bigger tires. Wow.

 

Nor would I, but plenty of people do.

 

I know how to fit 37” tires on a Gen 2 with only slight shaving and bit of work. But no messing with
castor. Reckon that’s big enough.

 

I don’t know that I’d consider it “screwing with caster”. It’s an adjustment that is checked and manipulated every time a decent alignment is done. You can push the tires forward, resulting in more clearance to the body mount, while remaining within the acceptable range. Or, slide the tires back, maybe need to modify the body mount, and still be within the acceptable range. Just a couple degrees makes a difference here! No change in tire wear or drivability that I can see or feel.

 

285/75/18 Toyo AT3…..Do it!!!!!!

 

Manipulating caster is super common when trying to fit big tires. All you’re doing is trying to center a much bigger tire in the wheel well with the goal of avoiding rubbing. Usually, this means more positive caster so your sweet beefy tire doesn’t rub on the cab mount. More positive caster is not a big deal.


I should say, 285/75R18 tires fit on my truck with OEM wheels without any need to tweak caster. Here’s a video explaining how to set positive caster yourself:

 

Sorry, I come from the solid axle age. Castor is set, and left alone. Now ya got me worried about who to trust if and when I do an alignment.

 

Yes caster is generally set with SFA and left alone, because to change it you have to either cut/rotate your knuckles or add shims between the springs and the axle.

But with IFS, it’s as simple as adjusting the cams on your lower control arms. It’s not a big deal at all. If you’re worried, just tell the alignment guy you want as close to stock specs as possible. Again, I didn’t have to increase positive caster to fit 285/75R18s.

 

Got any more photos of the truck with these, especially from the front or rear? I had them prior in 33x12.50r17 and I liked them. I just ordered some more of these Kendas in 285/75r18s for my incoming FN wheels. They seemed like the best combo of height and width I was after while not exceeding 65lbs, a decent price point, and the aggressive tread pattern I was after.

I was tempted by dueler Revo 3s in 295/70r18s as they somehow manage to be an E load in that size that only weighs 55 lbs, but I didn’t find them attractive enough from a looks perspective.

 

Did you have any fitment issues changing from a 295/70 to the 285/75?
I have 295/70/18's Nitto's on my 2020

 

I had to do a little more molding of the front finder liner with the heat gun and had to cut off a little bit of the tabs on the factory skid plate when I went from the 295/70/18 to the 285/75/18. Nothing too crazy for sure.

 

Not true. Caster can do a lot for clearance.

 

I have the Toyo at3's in 295/70/18 and have been happy with them. A little bit of noise but not bad at all. Removed the front flap thing and trimmed factory front mudflap and no rubbing +18 offset.

 

What did you do for suspension? I’m looking at going up to 285-75-18 from 275-70-18. I have KO2s right now which have been great but Discount Tire sent me an offer on eBay for $200 off the Toyo OC RT Trails in 285-75-18 which is basically like not paying taxes. I want the bigger tire size but I don’t want to do too much alterations to make em fit. I’m a little over 2” on my 5100s. Your truck looks sick by the way. I also have Method 312s which have a 18+ offset I believe. Could be wrong.

 

What lift do you have? Or what did you do to your suspension to make the 285-75-18 fit?

truck looks amazing by the way

 

I have the 3/1.5 Toytec Boss lift. Other than that just removing the front mud flap, a little trimming, heat gun, and cut off part of the tabs in the factory skid plate.

Thank you by the way!!!!

 

My 285/75 Kendas arrived today. Tastefully chunky. I was pleasantly surprised to find they weigh less than Kenda quotes. They say 65 lbs, my 4 tires ranged from 63 lbs. 1 oz. to 64 lbs 2 oz. Luckily the wheels only weigh 23 lbs which helps, and they should be here next week.

 

Well I finally figured out what's on my 2020 to get lift for these 295/70R 18's
Thanks to this forum I'm slowly learning

 

All I did was 6112s in the front at the top setting. 5100s in the rear with no lift.

Thanks for the compliment!

 

My truck has the same setup with Coachbuilder shackles and I have 295/70R 18's under it

 

Just pulled the trigger on Toyo at3 285/75/18 !Any TPMs advice?thank you!

 

So where did you get TPMS from? Yes, I know I'm reviving year old thread, but I'm in the same boat now, trying to fit 285/75/18 on mine.

 

I like using these. Also, never shared pics of my 285/75s mounted up. Here was how it turned out.

 

I agree the Autel mx sensors are super easy to program. I use them regularly at work and have no problems. You can also get them for @$25 a piece.

 

I have a extra tpms tool for sale right now. It's an Autel TS408. It will program Autel sensors. Still has plastic on screen, lightly used. $100 plus shipping.