General Supercharger Thread

Maybe I missed something but why would you need to be in four wheel drive so much?
In fact I had to of missed something!!!

 

It's a Sequoia & feels amazing in 4WD, when in 2WD (most likely because I'm used to 4WD) the power makes it feel disconnected from the road.

 

Is this in inclement weather?
We dont get a lot of that here in South Texas other than the occasional ice every few years.
Other than that it's just rain.

 

It's sure not due to rain....

 

Street life...

 

Quit harshing our mellow man.

 

Dammit!!!
Here I sit just before Dark wanting to take my Newly SuperCharged Truck out after several drinks!!!
Thank God my Wife is here to talk some sense into me!!!
Otherwise I'd already be out there!!
Dont know about Y'all but a few drinks really makes me want to get out there and see what my Truck will do!!!!
She tells me I have the common sense of a 16 year old.......
kinda hard to argue when I think about it......

 

My Wife says I have the maturity of a 14 year old so you're better off than I am.

As an aside, the builder said for 1k miles I need to stay completely out of the motor, he said he suggests keeping it under 4k & no pushing it off the line. It's going to be a rough thousand miles

 

I need 3-4 to get stupid with the throttle. Below that and meh. Above that and no driving. But that 3-4 mark? Burn outs in reverse up the driveway are a potential.

 

My issue?
I like Colorado Bulldogs.
They have at least 3 shots of vodka and 2 shots of Kahlua!!!
And I'm on # 3!!
So yeah the Wife is on target.
I have no business driving at this point.
As much as I want to.

 

Weird, that's different than I've heard from a lot of people that say to get on it to help the rings seat. Both of my built engines saw full boost within 5 miles of being installed

 

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1odDExk3-MLRrAlGBnftJH8tIWAkq32cW/view?usp=sharing

XATs break-in procedure

 

Agreed. Mine with my 383 is telling me just get in and hammer on it to seat the rings instead of babying it.

 

I was not thrilled to hear that. I have heard both schools. The BMW builder said 500, no redline.

 

I texted the link & UR specific part:

FOR UR V8 engines: We have not found 0w20 break in oil available, so 5w30 break in
oil will suffice. UR engines do NOT need the same ZDDP package that the older engines
do, as they have roller rockers. You can skip that step.

Oil fill #1: Start the engine for about 20 minutes. Rev it a bit, roughly 1500-3000 RPM, but don’t
keep it at idle, especially if you have new camshafts in your build. After 20 mins of 2000-3000
RPM, drain the oil, change the filter, refill again.
Oil fill #2: Start and run the engine. Drive around 100-500 miles, making sure you run the engine
at different RPM ranges. Stay out of boost/high RPM. You’ll want maximum engine vacuum as
well here to start the ring seating process, so engine brake/coast often, and let the engine wind
down itself after revving up.
You can always save the oil from this stage and send it in for oil analysis to a place like
Blackstone Labs, who can tell you how the engine is doing so far. This is certainly not
necessary, but is an option.
Oil fill #3: Drive it the way you intend on driving it from here on out. Use your preferred oil, or
stick to one more fill of the break-in oil. Lots of boost/high RPM, wring it out, give it the beans,
etc. Don’t forget to vary engine speed all over the RPM range with different amounts of throttle
input and vacuum/boost. At this point, you can optionally change the oil again at 1000-1500
miles, and some will also follow up at around 2500-3500 miles. Otherwise, continue your
preferred oil change interval procedure, and enjoy your fresh new engine!

 

From XAT:

Gibbs DRIVEN break in oil is a good choice.
Be sure to run non synthetic oil for the first 1000 miles. 3UR engines wany 0-20 oil - but nobody makes a 0-20 break in oil- so use something like driven 5-30 break in oil.

 

Seeing as it's never under 90 here right now does the cold viscosity matter?

 

Doubtful. IMO, biggest things were 1) a product recommendation and 2) no synthetic for 1k miles

 

Ordered 10 quarts of this, already have a slew of Wix filters, need to bring the Jowett filter socket to the shop when the oil, coolant (red) & WS comes as the torque converter will have to be swapped over & oil will be lost.

REALLY need to remember to get the socket back this time.

$37 Lucas Oil 10631 SAE 30 Racing Engine Break-in Oil - 5 Quart

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00INXYZH0?smid=AEUMAGUQFSUWO&th=1

 

I have heard both too, I would go by what they recommend. There's a many opinions about breaknin procedure as there is about oil.

 

?

Are they reinstalling the supercharger, with new gaskets? Did you get the intercooler brick pressure-tested? Might want to key-on and check that the fluid level isn't dropping...before starting the engine.

 

The issue with shooting through the intercooler is it can reform into droplets as it goes through the intercooler. I saw a little bit about a teaspoon in the lowest valley.
I went with direct port injection for each cylinder and a small nozzle at the TB for rotor cooler. 1.5gph for each cylinder and a 1gph at the intake. Total of 13gph forv700-850hp. 3 solenoids and a check valve to keep it in check. I'll redo the hardlines as bending them at 1am wasn't smart and want it a bit cleaner. Waiting for a Snow pump to fully convert to 4an lines. It's an older trd 1900 so didn't mind tapping the SC and I can install ugs if needed. The dye from the washer fluid.

 

Coating on the rotors still looks good, just looks like it ingested a smurf...

 

The date of manufacture was Feb 2009. I picked it up used in 2012. Not too bad.

 

How long on the water/meth?

 

Just about a year. Only 30% they say anything under 50%shouldn't ruin the coatings. I bounce between 20 and 40% I have some straight stuff to boost it up if I want to.
I'll have to order some more hard-line some of my bends were uneven.

 

The intake gasket was replaced in January, if it is a problem they will replace it.

Yes the brick was tested.

I ran the old engine several times with no loss, figured I could not kill it worse.

I moved it out of the Firestone parking lot to give the flatbed room, ran it for two minutes.

Over the last few days I have run it several times, no issues no coolant loss.

Thanks!

This was driven out of the driveway, it ran about 30 seconds.


https://vimeo.com/1094610074?share=copy

It is losing oil.

 

Same for blower break in

 

Was thinking the same thing but...

 

Dude. All I got is sorry.