Garage engine replacement 2005 crew cab v8

About a month ago I unfortunately sent a rod through my block and decided to replace the motor in my garage. After many many hours of work I have the replacement engine in but am getting a crank no start. I don’t know a whole lot about the new engine it is from a 2005 sequoia it supposedly has 240k miles and my truck only has 187k. The place I bought it from said the compression test showed a range of 150-170 psi all around. When I turn the key there is about 2-3 seconds of what sounds like it wants to start but it doesn’t. The rails are getting fuel and the crank and cam sensors look fine. Currently stumped looking for some advice.

 

I'm sure someone will chime in shortly with good advice. I am always impressed when I see people digging in at this level. I just paid a shop $4k to replace cracked exhaust manifolds on my gx470 that also has the 4.7L. I didn't think I could do that job on my back in the driveway.

Anyway, I'm wondering what happened when your Tundra threw the rod? Any idea why this happened? Backstory?

 

It has unfortunately been an extremely painstaking process. The only work I had done to the truck prior had been the bumper and the I put bilstein 5100s all around. The truck had died as I blew through a decently sized puddle with my foot to the floor. It shut off about halfway through and I heard a splash underneath. I then Popped the hood and took of the intake pipe and peeked into the throttle to see it full of water. It appears that when I was trimming my fender liner for the bumper I had cut it too high below the intake hole. So all mud that my tires were slinging went straight into my intake.

 

Ugh, hydrolocked. Sorry to hear that.
I hope that you get some good advice from all of the mechanics on here.

 

Did you check the timing while you had the engine out?

Did you reuse your old known-functional sensors on the new engine?

 

Are all your grounds connected and hopefully clean of mud/rust/etc.?

 

I just realized that I did not replace the cam sensors. I replaced the vvti and crank sensor but I did not do the knock sensors or cam sensors. I wonder if there is a way I could narrow down which one because both of those look like pretty tedious jobs and I would rather not have to do both. All the grounds are on I had a couple people double check and I don't think thats the issue.

 

Maybe check the basics, compression, fuel, spark. I know you say they said it had good compression, but doesn't hurt to confirm. While you have all 8 plugs out, take a look at them. Are they wet with fuel? Good condition? Then check for spark too while you're at it. If you don't have fuel or spark, I'd suspect cam/crank sensors. If you have one or the other, I'd suspect the related systems to what you don't have. If you have both then perhaps mechanical timing is off or compression is low or maybe mass air sensor? Was it cleaned after ingesting water?

Side note, I did head gaskets in my 06 years back. When plugging the engine harness back in, I plugged in the oil pressure sensor but missed the crank sensor. It would crank but not start. Double checked my work and realized I missed the crank sensor. Fired right up. Maybe just double check yours

 

No fender liners or improperly trimmed liners have been the source of basically every major engine failure here other than the timing belt. It doesn’t happen a lot but it happens. Y'all check your fender liners before a puddle turns your engine into a brick.

 

I could be wrong but my understanding is that these engines are not a direct swap. I think you have to also swap the wiring harness.

Did your research show otherwise?

 

Knock sensors won’t cause what you’re seeing, I’d get that out of your head. At worst you’d go into limp mode after starting. Cam sensor can be replaced easily without major disassembly, as can the VVTi solenoids on either head, top of cam tower, on the edge pointing toward the intake.

Timing is my first suspect here, 100% … That said, I know you said you’ve got fuel delivery. Just for shits and giggles, did you try spraying a 2-3 second shot of starting fluid behind the throttle body plate and cranking? Does it fire?

If not, your problem is likely not fuel delivery. It’s timing or a sensor or the ECU not functioning properly, or just a bad engine.

 

PS - tell us more about the install. I forgot about something, let me explain after some other questions.

Any codes set?

Did you use the original engine harness?

Are you using the original ECU?

Did you swap over the throttle body assembly and other electronics, since sometimes it’s pinout is different between years and Tundra/Sequoia? (Did you check the EWD for both to verify pinout is the same?)

 

Sorry I haven’t responded been a busy few days. I used the original harness and used the throttle from new engine. I finally pulled the code and i just got a p1340 and p1330. About to get started on taking those cam sensors out.