General Supercharger Thread

They are like 30 minutes from my house, that's awesome, thanks! I'll give them a call tomorrow.

 

The starter I just got was 19x.xx in December is 23x.xx now, same damn starter, same damn dealer.

 

Ok. So I'm looking at the pic I posted and I'm like wait...the waterpump pulley is ribbed. So I measured the bolt pattern and it matches the fan pulley which is smooth. I know some got the billet xat fan pulleys. The smaller size for me will at least keep my belt a little looser as I had maybe an 1/8 inch on the tensioner. This is with a 6.7 crank and snivs 2.0 SC pulley. I'll call him tomorrow after my appointment or you can if earlier. A little confusion here. I think he or others were calling it the wrong part.
Thanks

 

Well Crap!!
Was looking forward to hearing that SCer whine but the new exhaust is just a bit to loud and covers it up!!

 

It gets louder after break in period.

 

This is all I was able to find as far as break in goes.

While some supercharger manufacturers recommend a break-in period, Magnuson Superchargers does not explicitly specify a break-in period in their general instructions or warranty information. However, it's generally good practice to drive a newly installed supercharger with some restraint for the first few hundred miles. This allows components to seat properly and avoids putting excessive stress on the system.

Read into that what you will.........

 

Hello!?
Is this thing on?!!

 

Makes sense. It's as speculated as the type of oil one prefers and why... we're just saying, drive it how you want with less fear. Get them cobwebs out!

 

Longest discussion for breaking in a blower ever..

 

Makes sense.
Since apparently no one thought it needed a break in period.

 

I'd still be more worried about the canned tune loaded into the truck over the lack of need for breaking in procedures. The canned tunes are never ideal. But let us know once you get some gauges and actually lay into the new found power.

 

It’s best to break in blowers and tires simultaneously.

 

Oh I get it.
But again I'm going to go back to the Shop that did the install.
It's obviously a very High End Shop based on all the Very Expensive Cars in the lot either waiting on work or waiting to be picked up.
Besides,I dont see an issue showing a little restraint,as hard as that is,in waiting to really get into it if it's going to help with the longevity of your Blower.
As I said...I'm going to error on the side of caution as much as that sucks.
Perhaps I should hire a little old lady that would only drive my truck to church on Sundays...
But that would take far too long to reach that break in period!!!

 

And yes it is the fan pulley. It was just called the wrong one online. He stopped correcting people. But said he'll make whatever you want...

 

Oh boy! Time machine for meeeee!!!

NaU I can go back & undo all my fuckups!

lol

 

Anyone know the PN for ARP rod bolts? ARP's search is not great. All I see are head studs.

https://arpcatalog.com/71/
5 7L 3UR-FE ARP2000 203-4704 s

 

This is XAT's ARP offering. Stinks they rebrand it, but if they have them in stock and confirmed whatever the magic ingredient is behind the scenes fit, it may make it faster/easier to order them. I assume you'd get their oil pump, too?

https://xatracing.com/XAT-3UR-MSK.html

 

Well,I'm off to put a few more miles on the SuperCharger.

 

If you're getting aftermarket rods they should come with rod bolts. Usually rods have multiple configurations and it's all dependent on what fanciness level of bolts you want. ARP2000s are pretty standard.

 

I'm trying to keep the budget under 10k, TK said the rods are pretty stout & I can go with the stock & forged pistons but best to get the ARP rod bolts, they are exclusive to a competitor & he gave me their info. I ordered the ARP 2k head studs yesterday (or I should say the shop did)

 

I would do rods before pistons if I had to choose, I know two of yours are toast. If you increase ring gap and keep fueling happy, pistons should be fine, but rods can't handle too much torque. I have 8 "good pistons" from the spare motor that I have, I'll send them if you pay for shipping...just my 2 cents. New rings set to match your bore size, and forged rods, head studs and head gaskets and you should be set for a bump in power...

 

I would do rods, they are the cheapest component to replace, and as I recall are the next failure point outside of the ring issues.

 

Absolutely pistons and rods IMO for reliability.

 

Thanks, I'll talk to the shop to see if I have to overbore & PM you for the shipping price.

 

Miraculously, the block is unscathed. They are amazing, said they use upgraded better than stock pistons so thanks army, I am ok there, he also said the rods are fine and they see issues with pistons whether forged or not with superchargers over 50k miles. They are suggesting opening up the ring gaps to bring down compression, and I'll install the e85/Aquamist to lower combustion chamber temps.

Feels like I have been building motors for 3 years.

 

What's the milage have to do with how they hold up? Are they saying they soften or get weaker with age?

 

I snapped 3 rods or was it 4 with 70k on my engine. I'm sure they know their stuff but would do forged rods. But that's me...

 

Good to hear about the block! Just an FYI, increasing the ring gap doesn't alter compression, it just gives more room for thermal expansion of the rings to prevent them from butting up, and lifting the ring lands, which breaks the piston...