Stabilizer bar end links newbie question

I recently took a look at the bushings on my stabilizer bar and stabilizer bar end links and noticed the bushings were quite deteriorated. Ordered the replacement bushings for both from Toyota. I don't seem to be finding much information on replacing just the bushings on the end links, but rather replacing the whole unit. I don't see any reason to replace the whole thing when only the bushings are deteriorated. Before I dive in, is there any gotchas to replacing the end link bushings while retaining the original end link? Do they need to be compressed / pressed in any way? Trying to get my ducks in a row.

Thanks in advance.

 

The FSM will tell you how much to torque them. I never go all the way, just enough by eye so they look compressed. Stabilizer link compression isn’t critical.

 

10-4. Thanks

 

Am I correct in assuming that most replace the entire link? If so, why? Rust? Cheap parts?

 

They usually break on their own and can be a pain to remove. Moog is fine for this and 1/2 the price but the Toyota ones typically last longer. Also, Moog supposedly still has their lifetime warranty and will replace it. Just my experience. If you can buy the bushings, go ahead and save some cash, they’ll break on their own and will separate at the base.

 

They're cheap enough, is probably why most replace them. But if yours are in pretty nice shape, you could likely re-use them. I ran into something with the end links...I think the lower nut just spun and spun. Because the entire bolt was spinning. There's a little allen wrench key hole on the back side of it. You might need to secure that while you take the nut off. That was the only thing that confused me for a while.

If it's all filled up with gunk and you can't get an allen wrench in it, it's messy, and this will destroy your end link, but you can tear into the grease boot and find a spot to get vice grips in there to hold that bolt while you take the nut off. I had to do that on one side, but not the other. Luckily I was already planning to replace them.

 

Curiosity got the best of me. I paid around $16 each for the bushings from Toyota. A Moog link runs around $22 on Rock Auto. Damn, but the disposable world is a downer....

Thanks for the allen wrench tip....

 

I'm not sure of your rust situation but sometimes the part of the link that you can't see that is underneath the bushing, rusts away to almost nothing so when you go to remove the top nut it immediately breaks the link in two. I think that's probably why most people replace the whole unit.

 

This lower greasable ball joint portion can also be corroded, worn, and have a deteriorated boot. Likely will coincide with the upper bushing failure. Hence why most will replace the whole unit at once. If yours looks tip top aside from the upper bushings, just replace the upper bushings.

 

So the movotech ones weren't shifty approved?

 

They were not.

 

I kept my old ones just in case. If you switch to Suspension Maxx note that bottom nut is a pain to tighten. The instructions came with the torque specs which were not very tight at all.. Here is before and after:

 

I’ve still got my 70k(ish) mile originals in a box in the shop. No use for em.

 

Suspect you're correct. I'm spoiled - live in New Mexico. Rust is not a problem out here. However, lack of enough decent junkyards is....

 

Back in my Tacoma days we just removed the sway bar altogether to get true independent front suspension.
Surprisingly enough it didnt hurt the handling as much as you'd think.
But it definitely helped offroad.
I eventually made some quick disconnects.
You'd pull a pin and tie the sway bar off so it wouldn't just hang there.

 

I believe that’s what “Shifty” did. Don’t quote me but I think he said there some additional body roll when taking off ramps , etc at highway speed. I’m sure he’ll chime in and correct me if I mis-remembered.